Syncro Alignment Tool for 94 Ranger "California" model

[Moreflying]

I'm going to be doing my timing belt soon and would like to know if someone could give me a heads up on how this little gem.....

Works with this ..

I didn't use it the last time I did the timing belt and it might have a little something to do with my rough idle...maybe. Anyway any insight as to how to set the tool up and use it would be helpful. Thank you.

 

[LearjetMinako]

Never used one of those and I have done my timing belt several times. Just align the marks accordingly to their counter-part markings.

 

[Moreflying]

This is specific to California model 1994 rangers. So I know the vast majority don't have to use this tool. Has anyone used it that can give the details?

 

[Bryan22]

ya, the cam synchronizer is in the hole where the distributor is on older models. you'll need to take the sensor off to use the tool.

Or you can just be sure to mark the oil pump shaft and put it back in the right spot when reinstalling the belt, and not deal with the cam synchronizer. It's a PITA to get at and work on, and it's driven by the oil pump shaft, so as long as you keep everything aligned, you should be good to go.

 

[Moreflying]

ya, the cam synchronizer is in the hole where the distributor is on older models. you'll need to take the sensor off to use the tool.

Or you can just be sure to mark the oil pump shaft and put it back in the right spot when reinstalling the belt, and not deal with the cam synchronizer. It's a PITA to get at and work on, and it's driven by the oil pump shaft, so as long as you keep everything aligned, you should be good to go.

I'm with you on the just keep it all lined up and not deal with the tool but last time I did the belt I may have gotten it wrong so I want to use it to be absolute. The directions in the Haynes say "On 1993-1994 California models with manual transmissions, install (Ford tool no. T93P-12200-A) onto the auxiliary shaft sprocket and rotate the sprocket until the tool notch engages the notch in the synchronizer bowl." doesnt the tool go on the sprocket? I'm not clear how this works. You are saying on the distributor but my truck does not have one. I have a distributor like device that holds the cam position sensor down low on the intake side. I'm still confused how this tool works properly. More insight please.

 

[Moreflying]

Okay I found this picture and it is shedding more light to the situation.

I guess the tool goes on top of the synchronizer assembly after you take off the cam position sensor that sits above it. Then some how (by hand I guess) turn the auxillary sprocket that moves the mechanisims in the synchronizer assembly until you get the alignments described in the manual....I don't know...it sounds right. I'm wondering what it looks like as you put the tool on and see it working. Not clear there.

 

[Moreflying]

Can any Ford techs help out here? Any diagrams perhaps showing how to use this tool correctly? It sure would help out the California guys that need to use it.

 

[4b316]

We have this tool and just used it monday in setting up a engine.You haven't pull out the cam sensor have you?As long as you haven;t,it will be lined up but if you want to check put your belt on the marks,pull the cam sensor cover(dont break the little bolts)the tool will set in a notch on the housing of the base and the half moon part will set down in the by the "rotor".If it doesn't set right down in,loosen the clamp bolt and turn it.Make sure you have your timing marks all lined up first and check it a couple times by spinning the motor over and checking the marks.To tell you the truth,I have never see it make a difference when this is hook up or not,to see,when you get done and running,unplug it and see if it makes a difference in running.We've race the truck with it hooked up and not hooked up,Needs to be in there to run the pump and the timing marks need to be right.

 

[Bryan22]

it doesn't make a difference if it's unplugged, but if it's malfunctioning and plugged in, it causes major running problems.

4b316 explained it pretty well. just line up the cam and crank with their marks and turn the oil pump shaft unil the tool sets in the bowl around the half moon and in the notch. If it needs some fine tuning after everything is tight, you can loosen the hold down and turn the housing(Just like a distributor) to get everything aligned exactly.

 

[Moreflying]

it doesn't make a difference if it's unplugged, but if it's malfunctioning and plugged in, it causes major running problems.

4b316 explained it pretty well. just line up the cam and crank with their marks and turn the oil pump shaft unil the tool sets in the bowl around the half moon and in the notch. If it needs some fine tuning after everything is tight, you can loosen the hold down and turn the housing(Just like a distributor) to get everything aligned exactly.

Okay..so you can just move the sprocket to line it up with the tool then.

We have this tool and just used it monday in setting up a engine.You haven't pull out the cam sensor have you?As long as you haven;t,it will be lined up but if you want to check put your belt on the marks,pull the cam sensor cover(dont break the little bolts)the tool will set in a notch on the housing of the base and the half moon part will set down in the by the "rotor".If it doesn't set right down in,loosen the clamp bolt and turn it.Make sure you have your timing marks all lined up first and check it a couple times by spinning the motor over and checking the marks.To tell you the truth,I have never see it make a difference when this is hook up or not,to see,when you get done and running,unplug it and see if it makes a difference in running.We've race the truck with it hooked up and not hooked up,Needs to be in there to run the pump and the timing marks need to be right.

No..all is still together with nothing disconnected.
So you are saying loosen it and move the whole assembly. Would turning the auxillary shaft sprocket accomplish the same thing? You can run the engine without the sensor hooked up? Will the CEL come on if you do that?

Okay and thanks for all the comments. When I get to doing this I will take pictures and steps to share for others.

 

[Bryan22]

the assembly is 2 basic peices.
1- the synchronizer the actual hard part that sits in the block. Held down with a hold-down plate and a bolt.
2 - the sensor, 2 small bolts attach the sensor to the synchronizer.

you can turn the oil pump(auxiliary) shaft, but it will have to be in a place where the teeth will mesh with the timing belt. To make smaller, more precise adjustments, you can loose the hold down on the synchronizer and move it by hand until everything is lined up perfectly.

either way, to use the tool you need to remove the sensor.


and, yes, you will get a CEL with the sensor unplugged, 214 i think.

 

[Moreflying]

the assembly is 2 basic peices.
1- the synchronizer the actual hard part that sits in the block. Held down with a hold-down plate and a bolt.
2 - the sensor, 2 small bolts attach the sensor to the synchronizer.

you can turn the oil pump(auxiliary) shaft, but it will have to be in a place where the teeth will mesh with the timing belt. To make smaller, more precise adjustments, you can loose the hold down on the synchronizer and move it by hand until everything is lined up perfectly.

either way, to use the tool you need to remove the sensor.


and, yes, you will get a CEL with the sensor unplugged, 214 i think.

Great! Makes sense to me now. As soon as I get it apart I'll report back with the info and pictures. Thank you..

 

[4b316]

You shouldn't move your belt to get the cam sensor timed in,if you have to move anything,move the housing.I wouldn't think you should have to move anything,if it was lined up before you change the belt,it will have to be lined up afterwards.The pulley will have to be right as it is also a balanced shaft.

 

[Moreflying]

Just curious here. If the adjustment is off on the synchronizer will this affect the timing? I've been looking for the way to check and adjust timing on my truck and see little info out there. I know you take out the spout and hook up the timing light to #1 (was that exhaust side or intake side?) and it should be 10 degrees according to my sticker. Is that at idle or a certain RPM? If it's out what are the options to get it to specs of 10 degrees?

 

[4b316]

No way to change the timing on these trucks without modifing things.The cam sensor doesn't affect it.A chip will change things a little,our Jet chip increase about a degree at 3900,not enough to warrent the cost I didn't think