Suspension issues for 96 2wd: ball joints, I beam bushings, struts


justinae

10+ Year Member

Joined
Jul 29, 2011
Messages
65
Points
1,601
City
Portland, OR
Vehicle Year
1996
Transmission
Manual
I started a thread about alignment but found out I have bigger fish to fry. Main symptom is significant shimmy going over potholes and some squeak going over bumps at slow speeds. Tires looked slightly out of alignment so I thought that was it so took it to a shop and found...

Findings
  1. upper ball joint play on the driver side front
  2. very bad shocks all around
  3. worn bushings on the twin i beams (pics below)
  4. rear passenger leaf springs are a bit tired (the middle one is not snug up to the top one)
Questions
  1. Do both sides of ball joints need to be done? (I plan upper and lower)
  2. Anything else I should replace while doing the ball bearings and I beam bushings?
  3. Is there a specific name for the bushings on the I beams? Pics from the mechanic below.
Plan
  1. Replace upper and lower ball joints on both sides
  2. Replace both i beam bushings
  3. Clamp separated leaf spring
Parts List
Ball Joints - MOOG K8560T (uppers), Mevotech Supreme MK8561T (lowers)
Struts - FCS 341568 (front), FCS 342472 (rear)
Bushings - ???

View attachment 142938

View attachment 142939
 
Always heard those called axle pivot bushings.
 
Just bumping in case anyone has input about doing both sides of ball joints when only one side is affected, and anything else to do at the same time.
 
So, a little insight on this from a guy who rebuilt his suspension in sections - you will know the other side wasn't done. If you can afford to do both, do both. If you can't, put it on the short list.
 
Balljoints I usually just change the whole side while there, doing the other side is a judgement call, probably worth it though.

These suspensions are pretty simple, I wouldn't lose sleep over those pivot bushings, the radius arm bushings on the other hand do more for ride quality (it's the one behind the tires).

Honestly I don't know how my '97 just works...
 
Yeah, I’ve gone through the whole “only replace what’s completely bad” process before, usually when I was short on money. But for as many times as it ended up being going right back in a couple months later at best to do what I didn’t do the first time, I’ve gone to just overhauling. Been finding that’s part of the problem I’ve been fighting in my Choptop for years, there’s still a bunch of parts on it that aren’t completely bad, but not really great either. I’m about to replace all of the steering joints in it. I can’t detect any play on my own but I’m suspecting there’s a little bit somewhere because I’ve now replaced everything but that in trying to eliminate the vibrations and stuff.

I did axle pivot bushings, radius arm bushings, upper and lower ball joints on both sides, sway bar links and frame bushings, and shocks so far. One ball joint was bad, and for the price, I just did them all. I’m going to do the whole suspension linkage as soon as I get the rest of the parts. Shocks were the biggest improvement because I finally stepped away from the OEM types of Monroe/Gabriel/Guardian/etc. Initially I went to KYBs in the rear which was better, then I went to Rough Country N3 front and rear. The difference was incredible. I’m now re-thinking all of my vehicles for shocks. I might try Bilsteins on my green Ranger since that’s more a street truck. Work trucks will get Rough Country. But yeah, I think I’m sold on KYB or better now.

Side note, RC shocks are sold as pairs. Or at least the N3s are. Pretty sure they all are.
 
Thanks. I tend to think like you, "hey, while I'm in here...." but money is tight right now so I'm balancing. I'll do all the ball joints and shocks. Might save the axle pivots, they don't look terrible.

I put KYB in my Subaru and I agree, they were great. But for this little 2wd Ranger that is just a get around pickup I may keep it at the lower end. Lord knows what I've been driving on is basically just stilts.
 
I'm sure it's been discussed to death but I didn't find the thread. I'm not an off roader and just need something basic for shocks. Rockauto is where I usually get my parts and I can get all 4 shocks for $75 cheaper by going FCS instead of KYB, which I would prefer. But money is tight and it's just a weekend truck with the occasional trip.

Anyone run FCS on their 2wd and lived to tell?
 
Thanks. I tend to think like you, "hey, while I'm in here...." but money is tight right now so I'm balancing. I'll do all the ball joints and shocks. Might save the axle pivots, they don't look terrible.

I put KYB in my Subaru and I agree, they were great. But for this little 2wd Ranger that is just a get around pickup I may keep it at the lower end. Lord knows what I've been driving on is basically just stilts.
I will say that once upon a time when money was tight I did once replace just the one ball joint that was bad on a truck because money was real tight, but being a rust belt truck, that really wasn’t fun. Since then, if money is tight, I at least do both on whatever side is bad. It’s just easier when the retainers are blobs of rust.

Anymore, if I suspect I’m going to need parts for something, I’ll start collecting parts as I can afford it ahead of time and I’ll usually try to start with whatever I know is going bad, that way I’m not completely in trouble if it really gets bad and it gives me a little breathing room to collect what I can afford. I’ll also collect deals when I can if I have some extra money and know I’ll need it in the future. Goes on the shelf in the shed. Having spare parts on the shelf has saved me a few times over the years.

Just about any shock is better than a blown-out one or no shock. The cheap economy grade stuff just doesn’t hold up, you get a year or two. Maybe a little more. Mid to upper tier OE style tend to hold up better. Daily Driver or better on RA. Any of those should work just fine for the average person.

I’m just blown away that the Rough Country N3’s on my Choptop let me drive that thing like a car on the road and are also good for off-road. It’s made a playtoy comfortable to daily drive. I’m getting to the point in my life where comfort is starting to really matter so that’s the direction I’m going. Of course, almost nothing I own is exactly stock either, lol. It’s not for everyone.
 

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