Suspension issues for 96 2wd: ball joints, I beam bushings, struts

[justinae]

I started a thread about alignment but found out I have bigger fish to fry. Main symptom is significant shimmy going over potholes and some squeak going over bumps at slow speeds. Tires looked slightly out of alignment so I thought that was it so took it to a shop and found...

Findings

1. upper ball joint play on the driver side front
2. very bad shocks all around
3. worn bushings on the twin i beams (pics below)
4. rear passenger leaf springs are a bit tired (the middle one is not snug up to the top one)

Questions

1. Do both sides of ball joints need to be done? (I plan upper and lower)
2. Anything else I should replace while doing the ball bearings and I beam bushings?
3. Is there a specific name for the bushings on the I beams? Pics from the mechanic below.

Plan

1. Replace upper and lower ball joints on both sides
2. Replace both i beam bushings
3. Clamp separated leaf spring

Parts List
Ball Joints - MOOG K8560T (uppers), Mevotech Supreme MK8561T (lowers)
Struts - FCS 341568 (front), FCS 342472 (rear)
Bushings - ???

View attachment 142938

View attachment 142939

 

[SenorNoob]

Always heard those called axle pivot bushings.

 

[justinae]

Thanks @SenorNoob.

 

[justinae]

Just bumping in case anyone has input about doing both sides of ball joints when only one side is affected, and anything else to do at the same time.

 

[Li'l Work Truck]

So, a little insight on this from a guy who rebuilt his suspension in sections - you will know the other side wasn't done. If you can afford to do both, do both. If you can't, put it on the short list.

 

[scotts90ranger]

Balljoints I usually just change the whole side while there, doing the other side is a judgement call, probably worth it though.

These suspensions are pretty simple, I wouldn't lose sleep over those pivot bushings, the radius arm bushings on the other hand do more for ride quality (it's the one behind the tires).

Honestly I don't know how my '97 just works...

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Yeah, I’ve gone through the whole “only replace what’s completely bad” process before, usually when I was short on money. But for as many times as it ended up being going right back in a couple months later at best to do what I didn’t do the first time, I’ve gone to just overhauling. Been finding that’s part of the problem I’ve been fighting in my Choptop for years, there’s still a bunch of parts on it that aren’t completely bad, but not really great either. I’m about to replace all of the steering joints in it. I can’t detect any play on my own but I’m suspecting there’s a little bit somewhere because I’ve now replaced everything but that in trying to eliminate the vibrations and stuff.

I did axle pivot bushings, radius arm bushings, upper and lower ball joints on both sides, sway bar links and frame bushings, and shocks so far. One ball joint was bad, and for the price, I just did them all. I’m going to do the whole suspension linkage as soon as I get the rest of the parts. Shocks were the biggest improvement because I finally stepped away from the OEM types of Monroe/Gabriel/Guardian/etc. Initially I went to KYBs in the rear which was better, then I went to Rough Country N3 front and rear. The difference was incredible. I’m now re-thinking all of my vehicles for shocks. I might try Bilsteins on my green Ranger since that’s more a street truck. Work trucks will get Rough Country. But yeah, I think I’m sold on KYB or better now.

Side note, RC shocks are sold as pairs. Or at least the N3s are. Pretty sure they all are.