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Summers22 Bright Island Blue 2001 XLT build thread


That's a cool shot.
 
be very careful with extra snug on the thermo housing - they leak worse when overtoqued.... and you crack the housing.. (then they always leak no matter what you do)
I would take it apart, and add a very thing run of permatex BLUE - the "water pump and thermostat housing" stuff, smear it around with a gloved finger so you get a good thin even coat. Don't overdo it and put little bobs of it hanging off on the inside lip, they break off and then get into the coolant system.

 
Okay put it on the motor side of the gasket or housing side?
 
both, which means you will never salvage the gasket a 2nd time if you take it apart.
 
Okay so I probably need to get another gasket and the permatex, thank you
 
If you just did the gasket (and didn't use any sealant) the gasket most likely is reusable... if you have put a 1,000 miles on it then it will probably bond to the metal and tear apart. Once you use the permatex though it will bond to both sides and disassembly will just give you torn mess.
 
Yeah it has maybe 2 hours run time and 3 miles, hopefully I can reuse it. Never been over 30mph since itnhad junk tires.
 
Gotta figure out how to get the gasket dry now as well.
 
I don't think it has to be bone dry, just papertowel a bit so it isn't so sopping wet there is nothing to stick to.
 
Got it, it was the hose clamp on the thermostat housing. I took it off to clean it when I did the replacement and coolant flush last week, but the hose clamp was not getting tight enough. New clamp fixed it.
 
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Powerwashed the frame yesterday, wire brushed and used rust reformer on it today. Did the wheel well plastics with Turtle Wax Acrylic hybrid graphene plastic restorer. I'll let it all cure and then top coat with PB Blaster Surface shield. I'll install the newly cut wheel well aprons after the alignment.

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I will say, this truck was undercoated at some point many years ago. I saw signs of it when pressure washing it. Drip marks and what not on the rear axle and a few "grainy/coarse" areas of it on the frame where it doesn't see any road debris. The only real thing that needs attention is the driver side rear shackle on the leaf spring, its pretty bubbled up with rust. I'll replace them on both sides, most likely when I service the rear differential. I gotta get the correct Lubelocker gasket and fluid for it ordered.
 
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Powerwashed the frame yesterday, wire brushed and used rust reformer on it today. Did the wheel well plastics with Turtle Wax Acrylic hybrid graphene plastic restorer. I'll let it all cure and then top coat with PB Blaster Surface shield. I'll install the newly cut wheel well aprons after the alignment.

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View attachment 124771

Dang... the underbody and frame clean up looks amazing.
 
3.73 open with 7.5 ring gear and built March 29th 2001?

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never bothered to learn the MFG date code stuff, but open 7.5" with 3.73 for the tag sounds correct and 86 jives... now if only the PO hadn't replaced the internals with something else (most likely not cause 3.73 is kinda the most desired for general all around - not a crawler)
 

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