Stupid #$%^ing chainsaw

[martin]

The chainsaw that's driving me nuts is a shindaiwa but I don't think that
makes much difference as I suspect they're all the same way now.
What's bugging me is how is it possible to adjust the mixture? my ancient homelite saw has adjustments on the carb but this relatively new saw has no provision for adjustment and is supposedly adjusted at the factory. Problem is the misture is too rich so it runs in a constant state of four stroke or worse, making the thing virtually useless. It makes no sense to me as the motor obviously has different needs at 80 degrees than it does at minus 40.
How the heck do they adjust them at the factory? and how can I adjust mine ?(other than designing another metering block)

 

[lil red]

goe an old chainsaw......

all new stuff is like that, its for the enviroment
and so stupid people can own chainsaws(i know, why)

 

[MAKG]

Just to check, is the choke on?

 

[martin]

No, the choke is off, and functioning correctly.

 

[Jason]

I don't have any issues with the Huskies. They all run great. My brothers company has 20 or so and they are all two years old or newer.

 

[Will]

I wore out a bunch of $200 saws then finally coughed up the $500 for a new Stihl. It starts easily after sitting all winter. Never have to worry about it.

I have a Muccullough (sp?) backpack blower. It has a cool starting feature--some weirdness in the pull starter makes the pull hard at first, then it spins the hell out of the motor and that thing always starts on the absolute first pull. You might try a M-llough saw if easy starting is you main concern.

I have an expensive Echo gas trimmer and it's a great, sturdy commercial machine. But that big bastard won't start without starting fluid. It has never, ever started without a shot of spray up the pipe.

 

[Shran]

The only way to get those damn things to run right is to pull the carb, get a kit, clean it up, and rebuild it. In my experience.

 

[Simple_serf]

The new "factory adjusted" saws are crap.

Spend the cash and get either a good new sthil or husky saw, or get a good rebuilt one from a reputable saw shop. I have an old Husky 51 that has had the living snot beat out of it, and my dad has a 55 that cut most of our firewood this year.

I have a 1951 Homelite MCS-20, which is the first one man saw homelite made... back when homlite made good stuff. It has a little latch that you use to tilt the carb to keep it level. It uses a 8:1 mix. The old XL's are pretty good saws too, I know someone who has used one to cut all of his firewood since I can remember. It's loud, heavy and runs a 16:1 mix, so it smokes like crazy. But it gets the job done.

 

[mkpecor]

get a STIHL and never have problems again.

 

[triumphrider-1]

We have a new Poulan "Wild Thing" chain saw that was factory adjusted when we bought it; was good in the summer, but absolute junk in the winter (got to 'fly' a couple of times ). So we took the carb off of it and determined that there are still adjusting screws (the company hides them now from 'joe public' because people were adjusting the previous generation a running them too lean).

Anywho long story short I took the dremel and cut some slots onto their adjusting screws and cut the plastic housing around the carb area so we could adjust the mixture anytime needed (runs great now!) 2 years and many trees later and still no issues.

 

[Mutant Pony]

+1 fror the Stihl. I have an 026 and an 044. They are a few years old but, still work like new. I also have an antique homelite, my throw around saw. The old "Homey" takes a bit of work every time I run it.
My buddy swears by huskies but, his saw is broke down every time I see him even though he just got it fixed.

 

[martin]

there are no hidden screws on this one, which makes me wnder how they adjust them at the factory.

 

[scotts90ranger]

if it's running rich, did it always, or is it just this season?

on my saw, the fuel got too thick for the pump and bent the metering lever (apparently evaporated most of the gas out), made it run super rich. if it has a walbro carb, remove the cover with 4 screws on it, remove the diaphram and you'll see a little lever, bend the end twards the center of the carb down until it is flush with the aluminum around it (doesn't take much), that'll probably fix you up.

 

[martin]

It was always slightly on the rich side but acceptable. I've had other issues with it over the last few years which resulted in me uttering a few expletives, throwing it back in the corner and picking up the old homelite and using that.

I've tried adjusting the lever you mention (that's the one that controls the needle valve) but perhaps I did not get it quite right. I'll give it another go and let you know what happens. Thanks for the replies guys.

 

[Copytech]

Buy a carb that can be adjusted from ebay.