Stripped Oil Pan 4.0L 2011 Ranger

[D4379]

I took my truck to get the oil changed at Jiffy Lube and they brought in the drain plug. Half the threads were fouled which indicated the pan may be partially stripped. They said bring it back in and they will look at it. They indicated it may need a new pan which they said they could replace. I told them I would bring it in, let them look at it but there was no way I would let them open up the engine. I would take it to the dealer if necessary. I am very wary about this as I believe that opening it up will create future issues with leaks. The engine has 114,000 on it now, uses no oil and runs just fine. Some people are saying just get a new plug, others say oversize plug and others a new pan. Opinions? This is my fourth ranger, great truck. My last one a 2001 had 296,000 on it with no issues, the only thing I replaced beyond plugs and filters was the alternator at 225,000 miles. The only reason I got the 2011 and replaced the 2001 was it was the last year they were being made.

 

[cp2295]

Get a new bolt and retap the threads on the pan. Heli coil it if necessary, make sure to put thread sealant on the helicoil if you're going that rohte


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[enjr44]

I saw this yesterday and didn't comment because I hate those fast lub places. Sooner or later they are going the screw it up.

I think I would do as above, using a lot of grease on the drill bit and/or tap to catch the chips. I would hang myself before I let those guys fix it. A good local shop can fix your lower pan if for you if you don't want to do it yourself (you can also change the lower pan without pulling the engine if you want go that way).

 

[adsm08]

I would replace the pan, and I would do it myself.

There are two pans on the 4.0 SOHC. There is an aluminum upper pan that requires the engine come out to be replaced, and there is a stamped steel lower pan that can be unbolted and slid out very easy, and this is the one the plug goes into. It's cheap, it's easy to replace.

 

[cp2295]

Definitely go adsm08's route, did not realize there was 2 separate pans and I thought you needed to pull the motor to change the pan. If you can not access a pan for some reason (or afford a used one) then I'd pull the pan and do the tapping on the Bench. That way you don't have to work about metal shavings finding their way into the bearing journals


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