Straight drive shaft to replace transfer case

[Paisano]

I'm not sure this is the correct sub forum. 92' Ford Ranger XLT with 2.9 V6 and push button 4WD.
I have a very old transfer case with over 500,000 miles. It has caused driveshaft 'slop' for years.
I might have no further need for it, and my 4WD is broke anyway. I talked to a local driveshaft repair expert. He says he can build me a one-piece driveshaft from transmission to rear axle.
He says it doesn't need even need a center bearing. The cost is much cheaper than a rebuilt transfer case. The plan would be for me to remove the old transfer case to save on labor, and I would take measurements (and photos).

My only concern is if this will have any effect on the functioning of the automatic transmission. The drive shaft guy said it should not affect it.
Do you agree? Have any of you done this before? I have not made a decision yet as to whether I will do this.

 

[Curious Hound]

You will need a different tailhousing and, I believe, output shaft for the transmission once you remove the transfer case. Probably easier to just get a rwd transmission.

 

[Snoranger]

Your cheapest route would be to find a good used transfer case. I’ve picked up E-shit cases for as little as $50.

 

[Paisano]

I don't think I want to extend a driveshaft if it involves that. Maybe easier to just get the remanufactured or used transfer case, drill a hole in the floor board and attach a manual shift lever. I already converted it to manual locking hubs myself several years ago.

 

[RonD]

No, do not agree

You have an A4LD automatic, just FYI

2WD and 4WD transmissions are different, manual or automatic
4WD have short tail shafts with mount points for a transfer case on tail shaft housing

4WD A4LD: https://www.explorerforum.com/forum...3d875b4ce635c48e3f2de83f1e4be2.jpg?1583516405

2WD A4LD: https://www.monstertransmission.com/assets/images/a4ld-2wd.jpg
2WD had a seal and support at the end of tail shaft were a driveline connects

So first thing is that a 4WD trans doesn't have a support at the end of the tailshaft to mount a drive shaft, its normally connected to transfer case that has a bearing inside to support the end of the shaft

You can't just swap tail shaft housings because 4WD shaft is too short, and this shaft is the main shaft inside the transmission, so you need to rebuild the transmission to change it to the 2WD length shaft

You have a BW1354 transfer case, electric shift
But must use a 1990-1997 to have speedometer cable hook up
Yes used ones are not that expensive

Try https://www.car-part.com/

 

[Paisano]

Correct I have the A4LD and the BW1354 transfer case. I can get a discounted rebuilt transfer case through my employer with a good warranty.
Or I can get a used one. I'm glad I checked with you guys first. Yes. I have used car-part.com before. I'll look again

 

[Curious Hound]

Maybe easier to just get the remanufactured or used transfer case, drill a hole in the floor board and attach a manual shift lever.

Nope. It’s not. The electric transfer case shifts differently than the manual ones. It’s not easy to just attach a handle.

 

[Ranger850]

Can OP Remove 4wd Transmission and transfer case and replace it with a 2wd Transmission and appropriate length Driveshaft. Basically converting FROM 4wd TO 2wd?

 

[Snoranger]

Can OP Remove 4wd Transmission and transfer case and replace it with a 2wd Transmission and appropriate length Driveshaft. Basically converting FROM 4wd TO 2wd?

yes

 

[Ranger850]

yes

is it that simple?

 

[Paisano]

It would be easier to buy a manual shift transfer case. If I ever need 4WD, I already have Mile Marker manual locking hub conversion done. There should be a way for me to hook up some type of shift lever if I decide to. I spent a ton of money for a rebuilt A4LD transmission several months ago. So new transmission is not an option.

 

[Curious Hound]

. There should be a way for me to hook up some type of shift lever if I decide to.

There are many threads here discussing this. Can it be done? Yes. Is it easy, convenient or even economically feasible compared to buying a manual transfer case? No.

The issue is that the manual transfer case has a shift rail exiting the front side that just needs to be pushed or pulled to the proper positions. The electric case is shifted by a rotating shaft that exits the rear of the case. The shaft rotates well over 180 degrees to reach all positions, almost 270 degrees, if I recall correctly. Coming up with a reliable mechanism to do that AND still be operable from the cab is difficult. By the way, the shaft protruding from the rear of the case is triangular shaped. There is/was a company that made an assembly for this. But it’s EXpensive and I’m not sure what the availability is any more.

 

[Paisano]

Yeah, I'm sure it would be a pain trying to retrofit some type of floorboard shifter to the transfer case.
At any rate, I need to at least buy a used transfer case to serve as a 2WD placeholder for the driveshaft.
That old transfer case needs to replaced soon. It's the cause of the driveshaft 'slop.'

They used to sell a shifter knob that mounted directly on the manual transfer case. You would have to crawl under the truck to engage the 4WD. I think it was called 'Shiftster.'

 

[Curious Hound]

They used to sell a shifter knob that mounted directly on the manual transfer case. You would have to crawl under the truck to engage the 4WD. I think it was called 'Shiftster.'

I keep one in my center console.

 

[don4331]

Personally, I'm surprised that you have 'slop' in the driveline from the transfer case, even factoring in 500k+ miles.

From your description, it sounds like this is an issue in 2wd...​

The rear output consists of a splined input shaft, 2 bearings, a bushing, a sliding collar and the splined rear output shaft.

While it is possible for the splined shafts (input/output) to get wear/damaged - it would be extremely unusual behind a 2.9/auto​

If the transfer case hasn't been operated for miles and miles in low range, there shouldn't be significant wear on the bushing and/or the sliding collar.​

The planetary for low range is "caged" when in high range so doesn't contribute to driveline​

And the input/output ball bearings don't really wear (and if they are failing, they let you know it in a big hurry)​

​

Now, if you are just talking slop on the front output - I can understand, even with limited 4wd use, the chain could be well worn after 500k miles.

But that is a different/relatively easy thing to fix. I prefer to drop the transfer case out to replace the chain, because working on tailgate is easier than under truck...​

And replacing a chain is a $100 item which I would personally want to do on any replacement transfer case (a remanufactured case would already have new chain)​