Str8sixfan's painfully slow 2wd to 4wd SAS project

[Str8sixfan]

That reminds me, I still need to put my ujojnt axles in my D30.

On a side note, you may lose a few MPG's due to the D30 being a live at all times axle meaning it will spin everything in the D30, the front driveshaft and the transfercase when the vehicle is moving.

Yea I've tried to account for that. In my hayday, I was averaging 23.5mpg highway...so I figure if I gear it right, with the added weight, added drag, and added resistance of the live axle...19-19.5 might be attainable with the addition of an electronic fan and high flow cat.

On another note, I got the old lower ball joints pressed out of the axle last night, and my new lowers showed up in the mail yesterday too. Though with working late I didn't get much more accomplished than that. Want to get the new knuckles on by the end of the week or next Sunday.

 

[crawlin91]

You do know you will have to weld 0.025" spacers onto the wj knuckles to align the ujoints properly, might be easier to do before they are on the axle.

 

[Str8sixfan]

You do know you will have to weld 0.025" spacers onto the wj knuckles to align the ujoints properly, might be easier to do before they are on the axle.

I don't think you HAVE to weld them, though I understand the peace of mind it would bring. But yea I plan on purchasing those soon, as in I have to buy 1 new unit bearing as well...I think it's actually .25" though, isn't it?

In other news I got the new lower ball joints pressed in tonight. So I need to buy the finish coat of paint for the knuckles and I can torque them down to spec.

 

[crawlin91]

Yeah, I have seem plenty run them without welding them, and yeah 0.25" is correct.

 

[Str8sixfan]

Yeah, I have seem plenty run them without welding them, and yeah 0.25" is correct.

Cool, glad to hear. I think they'll be plenty fine as they're sandwiched between the two ends of the threaded studs. Though I have wondered, do the spacers come with new longer bolts?

Though I could weld them on too, as this would be a relatively good first item to try my welder out on I bought in Feb-March. Still have yet to use it, but then again I haven't had anything to use it for yet either. Will probably break it out this summer for my extended arms. Still need to buy a helmet though

 

[crawlin91]

No, the spacers dont come with longer bolts. The xj bolts should work, as they are a bit longer.
I would weld them. The hub/unit bearing is an interference fit with the knuckle and takes much of the vertical load of the vehicle, with the 0.25" spacers installed there is much less contact between the knuckle and the hub, which transfers quite a bit shear force to the 3 bolts holding the assembly together. Some run them fine without welding but I wouldnt. Especially since you have access to a welder... Its extra insurance. No special prep is needed. Just bolt up an old hub, clean up the knuckles with a flap wheel to bare metal, burn them on, and let them cool nice and slow.

 

[Str8sixfan]

No, the spacers dont come with longer bolts. The xj bolts should work, as they are a bit longer.
I would weld them. The hub/unit bearing is an interference fit with the knuckle and takes much of the vertical load of the vehicle, with the 0.25" spacers installed there is much less contact between the knuckle and the hub, which transfers quite a bit shear force to the 3 bolts holding the assembly together. Some run them fine without welding but I wouldnt. Especially since you have access to a welder... Its extra insurance. No special prep is needed. Just bolt up an old hub, clean up the knuckles with a flap wheel to bare metal, burn them on, and let them cool nice and slow.

I read this last night, sort of dismissed it and thought "I think he's going a little overboard, there won't be that much extra force." Then I re-read it today, and I get it now, makes total sense. Maybe it's because I'm helping flush out some structural details today on the job I'm working on here at work.

I've seen some pics online, where it's really just a good 1" bead on each of the three sides, so it doesn't look too challenging.

 

[Str8sixfan]

Couldn't quite seal the deal on a set of 4.56s on craigslist today. But I will most likely order a new set in 2 weeks!

 

[scotts90ranger]

Yea I've tried to account for that. In my hayday, I was averaging 23.5mpg highway...so I figure if I gear it right, with the added weight, added drag, and added resistance of the live axle...19-19.5 might be attainable with the addition of an electronic fan and high flow cat.

Back a few years ago when my truck was "stock" with Dana 28, 31" tires, 4.10 gears I got a steady 19mpg no matter what I did (other than wheeling) and that was with an engine with 2 cylinders at 180psi, one at 170 and one at 150 and almost 200k on the clock that had at one point gotten 26mpg consistently when 4x2 but when they switched to ethanol fuel dropped to 23mpg, then was swapped to 4x4...

After I swapped in the turbo I got 15-18mpg running the stock 2.3L exhaust (including cat), similar after the drivetrain swap and bigger tires (also pulled the cat and put a thrush 2.5" muffler and pipe on, no change to mileage, will put an aftermarket cat on at some point though as the turbo liked the extra heat). To sum it up, don't worry about the high flow cat, I was pushing 50% more power through my stock unit than you will be...

 

[MudSlanger]

Im in the process of buying a dana 30 fully rebuilt with 3.55 gears. I need 4.10s to match the rears but I dont forsee that being a major issue since those are a dime-a-dozen

Im still in researching this swap since this is my first attempt at swapping axles. I have the superlift/RCD coil over front end on my dana35 but Im starting to get over the whole IFS crap. Ive read your swap progress and im in it for the information since like i said, ive never done this before and suspension isnt really too much my thing

 

[Str8sixfan]

Ha! Well this is my first swap too. I'm guessing your rig's already a 4x4 though? Which helps things. You might also read through a swap by the member named CollinRmitchel (I think that's his handle). It's another 2wd to 4wd swap, but he seems just like me in the sense of him being on a budget and a first timer.

If you're buying a D30 and have to match the rear gears at 4.10 (I assume are already in your truck), then try and find a D30 axle with 3.73s in it. You then will only have to buy gears. If you buy one with 3.55s you have to buy gears and a new carrier. 3.73 is the breaking point.

Been trying to secure some gears. Lost out on 2 different Craigslist deals, but am now trying to track down a deal on eBay. Found two good leads. Funny thing is, both CL and EB, have had one of each: 4.56s and 4.88s. But even if I do get either set here, I'll be in need of a carrier yet.

 

[Str8sixfan]

Spoke too soon. After writing the above post I checked my inbox, which I got a message back confirming the 4.56 set I was looking at was reverse cut. So I bought 'em, with the master install kit

http://www.ebay.com/itm/19069082711...iewitem=&sspagename=ADME:L:OC:US:3160&vxp=mtr

 

[Str8sixfan]

Gears and install kit showed up last Friday. I would have pics up, but life's been crazy lately. Have a deadline for a project at work due on Wednesday. Worked 72hrs last week, looks like I'm on pace for another 63 or something.

 

[Str8sixfan]

Well it ended up being 67hrs this week too

But now for the photo evidence:

 

[Str8sixfan]

Thought I would throw this up here, it was based off of this list:

http://www.civilianjeep.info/CJaxles/d30specs.jpg