Stock fan specs

[engdept]

You say that, but then you say that the stock mechanical fan doesn't drag on the engine more than the alternator? Right.....

 

[MAKG]

When will get it that my name is NOT Maurice?

This is just too funny.

Maurice, no one believes you because -- get this -- we're not all idiots.

Let's put it this way. Either you're Maurice, or you're his seriously obsessed twin lover. Things like, every post mentions "his" stuff, but not yours. We figured out a long time ago that this "engdept" login was your attempt to get around a ban.

You even have the same silly misconceptions as Maurice. You talk the same way. And you think everyone around you is unbelievably stupid, in just the same way.

 

[kevinsranger]

ok so i dont want to get into this pissing match, but seriously, i want to install an efan on my truck just because of the water crossings i do my clutch fan turns into a boat prop. is there any cons to having an efan that will really concern me? im not doin it for power gain or milage

 

[almostclueless]

He is silly to make statements like the alternator drag is always the same without knowing firsthand.....and if he knew firsthand, he would KNOW their drag increases quite a bit with high current loads.


As for the original post, SOME e-fans can pull enough air. The ones that do draw enough power such that the cost of properly installing them means the small amount in fuel savings won't break even for quite a while.


AND I doubt most folks are knowledgable to truly wire them up appropriately.


I've never read an account where anyone's mechanical fan broke during a water crossing.

 

[kevinsranger]

I've never read an account where anyone's mechanical fan broke during a water crossing.

mine never broke,it just soaks the top of my engine with water and i just dont want all electronics like the alternator and the coils getting wet if i dont go that deep into water. when i had my stock air box setup, i took the little snorkel thing off so it was just a hole in the side of the box and the stock fan would throw water directly into that hole.

 

[cargs]

You say that, but then you say that the stock mechanical fan doesn't drag on the engine more than the alternator? Right.....

i didn't say that.

 

[IDontCare]

when your driving fast enough the e-fan should auto shut off because the air forces its way though the rad into the engine compartment cooling everything anyways. its when your at idle the engine warms because the air flow stops, thus the e-fan kicks on. and if your driving in a river who needs a fan when you got your whole freaking engine under water!! i say ditch the stock fan man..

 

[IDontCare]

just the highest cfm fan you can...

 

[triumphrider-1]

kevinsranger

I know how you feel mine did the same thing every time I went through deeper crossings(and once it dries the stuff never seems to want to come out either).

As I stated earlier my fan is a 16" fan (biggest I could find at the time) and is controlled by a thermal switch and also my on/off switch in the cab.

For me it is ideal, I can drive around town, to and from work and the fan almost never comes on (speeds greater than 20-25mph). When I hit the trials the fan comes on after a while and runs longer than I would like, but since I do not have a shroud made for it yet I would expect nothing less.


All in all boils down to your personal preference.

 

[thegoat4]

ok so i dont want to get into this pissing match, but seriously, i want to install an efan on my truck just because of the water crossings i do my clutch fan turns into a boat prop. is there any cons to having an efan that will really concern me? im not doin it for power gain or milage

Since an e-fan will have less capacity than a mechanical fan you'll lose some cooling capacity in the switch. Will that matter? Depends. Pretty much everything on your truck has some kind of margin that allows for wear and tear without an actual breakdown. Your fan and radiator are designed to have sufficient cooling capacity to keep the vehicle from overheating under the worst conditions.

High load, low speed, bad coolant, lots of dirt and crap on your radiator fins, and high ambient temp are all factors that will diminish your cooling capacity. If you run into all of them (or just several of them) at once you risk overheating.

Mechanical fans have the big advantage that when all else fails, you can shift into neutral and rev the engine to force a cool down.

If you don't have a problem running hot and you keep your radiator clean, you should be ok with an e-fan.

Another option for water crossing is some sort of baffle or deflector behind the top of the engine fan to keep most of the water off the top of the engine. But make sure it doesn't restrict air flow across things that need it, like the alternator.

 

[Bob Ayers]

Check out this poll on e-fans, it clearly shows e-fans are not as reliable as the oem mechanical fan/clutch assemblies:

http://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2/showthread.php?t=69440

 

[Bob Ayers]

This is just too funny.

Maurice, no one believes you because -- get this -- we're not all idiots.

Let's put it this way. Either you're Maurice, or you're his seriously obsessed twin lover. Things like, every post mentions "his" stuff, but not yours. We figured out a long time ago that this "engdept" login was your attempt to get around a ban.

You even have the same silly misconceptions as Maurice. You talk the same way. And you think everyone around you is unbelievably stupid, in just the same way.

YUP, I agree, his posts are a dead give away!!!

Hopefully, engdept will get banned!

 

[JoshMcMadMac]

Your alternator spins the same no matter how much load is on it. If it is dragging, then you have a bad alternator.

The Taurus efan pulls about 4,500 CFM on the high speed and about 2,800 CFM on the low speed.

The Taurus fan does not move quite that much air; more like 3800-4000CFM on high. The cost to do the swap properly can be under $100 if you are willing to put everything together yourself.

 

[JoshMcMadMac]

Check out this poll on e-fans, it clearly shows e-fans are not as reliable as the oem mechanical fan/clutch assemblies:

http://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2/showthread.php?t=69440

I interpret the results of that poll very differently. It clearly shows me that most folks should not be left alone with electrical wiring! The number of accounts of fuses blowing or shorts is no fault of the fan. If an electric fan fails, it is only the fault of the fan if the motor stops spinning...which would cause no other electrical problems. Most any problems I read can be related back to the installer. I am not sure why anyone is running a fuse, although from the sounds of some of the wiring folks have done it is for the better. I know that I use sufficiently gauged wire with good contacts and connectors, and I use a circuit breaker instead of a fuse. The fuse is good to "tell" you that you have a problem with your wiring, whereas a circuit breaker serves the "proper" purpose of protecting the circuit from a surge.

 

[engdept]

The Taurus fan does not move quite that much air; more like 3800-4000CFM on high. The cost to do the swap properly can be under $100 if you are willing to put everything together yourself.

That is still more than enough air to cool a 4.0 Ranger in the middle of August; the stock fan doesn't pull that much air across the radiator.