Stock Calipers rubbing stock wheels?

[MaicoDoug]

When rotating tires the other day my mechanic (the Sr. tire tech) mentioned that there is evidence of the caliper scraping the wheel on the inside. I noticed this myself the other day, seems that it has been an issue for a long time. Then I heard the scraping myself immediately after the re-balance & rotation. Wondering if there are some caliper bushings that have become worn. Brakes are stock, as are the wheels. Brake service is not indicated as now, plenty of pad left. I guess I need to inspect to see what exact part of the caliper the inside of the wheels are contacting. Everything else seems fine and the small amount of caliper to wheel contact that one can see clearly on each of the wheels and indeed was noticeable when driving away from the last tire rotation the other day, but for only a half mile or so. Maybe only a few thousands contact guessing .005" at most or so. These are the Level II forged Alcoa stock wheels, and I believe the stock calipers. Any help I very much appreciate! Thanks again TRS.

 

[19Walt93]

That doesn't make sense. The first step would be to have someone more knowledgeable look at it. "Tire tech" is an oxymoron.

 

[pjtoledo]

if you have to grind the calipers,
I used a punch and placed dimples all over the area to be ground. made it look like a golf ball.
that allows you to gauge the amount ground off and keep it even.
power grinders tend to get carried away and take off too much too fast.

 

[bobbywalter]

you need to identify the parts you have. either the calipers are installed wrong....you have the wrong calipers....or control arms.. a hybrid explorer setup or something.....or the ball joints or wheel bearings ar loose. i assume you checked or at least would notice such when you jacked it up to rotate ... first thing i do ...... but as walt mentioned...thats not always proper etiquette to the uninitiated.

you are here looking for help...and you are getting it. this is a potentially fatal situation. also its something that can get you ripped off. could be as simple as an incorrect replacement wheel or chinesium knock off ...

 

[Uncle Gump]

I know you did the coil over conversion from torsion bars. I can't see how that would effect things.

Have you replaced your calipers?

I'd be looking at caliper hardware... bracket mounting and wheel bearings.

Does it rub on both wheels or just one side?

 

[bobbywalter]

I know you did the coil over conversion from torsion bars. I can't see how that would effect things.

Have you replaced your calipers?

I'd be looking at caliper hardware... bracket mounting and wheel bearings.

Does it rub on both wheels or just one side?

coilovers? hmmmm

 

[sgtsandman]

With how tight the clearance is on the 2011 and it's 15" wheels, all it took was some rust bubbling on my winter junk yard steelies to cause rubbing. I wonder if you might have the reverse on the calipers?

 

[JoshT]

or control arms.. a hybrid explorer setup or something.....

I don;t see how anything suspension would cause this. Wheel and caliper both attach to and move relative to each other with the steering knuckle, so any changes in the suspension should avvect both the same.

The problem almost has to be something in or outboard of the steering knuckle. Caliper/Bracket, wheel bearing, or wheel. Those are about the only places that could be causing the interference.

I know you did the coil over conversion from torsion bars. I can't see how that would effect things.

Yeah, I agree. I can't picture any way that the coil over conversion would have caused this as mentioned above.

@MaicoDoug Got any pictures that show the contact points (rub marks) on the wheels and calipers?

 

[MaicoDoug]

"tire tech" eh? Hey, this one was wearing a red shirt. I remember hearing something rubbing just after the tire flunky mentioned the issue. But when I put on the brakes the rubbing went away. And soon (in 50 yards, 20 revolutions) after as well.

100% stock everything. Everything is stock. I will post some pictures. The wife has the Ranger, the F150 gets a new evap coil in a couple of days, so currently it's a rolling sauna here in south Texas. Parked.

The idea of dimples to control depth during a removal is clever, thanks. The entire front end has been aligned, & rebuilt CV's included, with new lower control arms. All new ball joints & control rods. I'll need to get the shoes out to test what would seem any excessive rattle while they are still bolted up. On rough asphalt roads at slow speeds I can hear something rattling, I think it might be the shoes and / or calipers. Sounds like a spray paint - rattle can. Not anything scraping, that was just after rotation. The manager (friend) gave me a great $ on the Mikey T's with a mileage warranty, which they never ever do for off road tires. Thanks everyone for the responses. Tonight I'll have a look, then post the pics here.

 

[pjtoledo]

when the brakes are applied the caliper moves away from the wheel. makes sense the grinding stopped.
the bracket doesn't move, only the caliper.
are the slider pins/holes getting worn? does the caliper flop around any?
pics of the marks on both the wheels & calipers would be helpful.

 

[bobbywalter]

I don;t see how anything suspension would cause this. Wheel and caliper both attach to and move relative to each other with the steering knuckle, so any changes in the suspension should avvect both the same.

The problem almost has to be something in or outboard of the steering knuckle. Caliper/Bracket, wheel bearing, or wheel. Those are about the only places that could be causing the interference.



Yeah, I agree. I can't picture any way that the coil over conversion would have caused this as mentioned above.

@MaicoDoug Got any pictures that show the contact points (rub marks) on the wheels and calipers?

different control arm or knuckle scenario with as opposed to lower control arm change, can change the location of the caliper. there are differences between the explorer sporttrac and ranger..... if somehow there was a parts replacement and this was overlooked or an attempted upgrade... i know sometimes you have to grind on the knuckle a bit...for one of the scenarios...

say an offset lower control arm that allows for lift and realignment with the coilover meant for a certain knuckle could definitely cause an interference issue.

i didnt know...or dont know if its a coilover conversion...just seen it mentioned.

or in the case of the ttb 35 when using 5 bolt ttb44 spindles....to get d44 parts, you have to pay close attention to how you make your adapter brackets to mount the caliper. generally you are stuck with 16 in wheels depending on what rotors you use.

 

[SenorNoob]

or in the case of the ttb 35 when using 5 bolt ttb44 spindles....to get d44 parts, you have to pay close attention to how you make your adapter brackets to mount the caliper. generally you are stuck with 16 in wheels depending on what rotors you use.

Sorry for the threadjack, but what does that adapter bracket look like? I've looked all over the net trying to find a way to make that conversion and you're the first one I've seen mention adapter brackets... I knew there had to be something. Just couldn't figure it out without all of the parts in front of me.

 

[bobbywalter]

you make it.

depends on what setup is used .... this assumes starting with later bolt on brake d 35 knuckles.

 

[SenorNoob]

I've got those. Just wondering if it's something that can be made at home or better done by machine shop.

 

[bobbywalter]

up to you it is fairly self explaining.... been a few years though. not perfect but it works using aftermarket calipers is often part of the process...but not necessary.