The "axle" mounts hold the differential pretty flat in a RBV and the "back" differential mount bolts up to the frame. Shimming it down is possible, up is really difficult. And driveshaft 101 says you want to keep the ends parallel - or you're just trading one problem for another.I think the pinion angle is held by the rear mount for the front diff, I wonder what it would take to shim it up a little bit to help the CV angle.
I don't remember hearing about a whole bunch of failures, I'm not exactly sure how much I would be freaked out about this... but then again I ignored a lot about anything '98 or newer for a lot of years...
To get someone to build a custom axle with double cardan u-joint and pretty unique transfer case adapter is going to cost $$$ -- its not '98 anymore.

Even the option of getting an older transfer case front yoke and getting a custom drive shaft with just double cardan at transfer case isn't going to be free.
The good news - rarely does the stock CV just fail. It give you a bunch of warning - it gets loose, noisy, etc. Having a spare axle behind the seat with a 3/8" ratchet, t-40 torx and 8mm socket in the glove box would be insurance. Usually, you can get back out in 2wd, it might not be quick but it can usually be done.
p.s The Rough Country front driveshaft at $460 is ~1/2 the price of Superlift's and I'll bet it fits..
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