Sticky shifting and hard to get it in

[RangerAbuser666]

Hey Station!
My 04 Ranger's manual transmission is getting difficult. By difficult I mean hard to get into gear, even when moving. When it sits for a couple of days it can be even harder to get into gear at first. I usually just bump 2 or 3 times and it will pop into gear. I never force it. I checked the fluid and it was fine so now I'm worried.

I currently have 66k on it but it's the second trani. Ford had to replace the first one @ around 20k.

Any ideas?
TIA!

 

[partsguy84823]

You killed an M5OD in 20k miles? That my friend is impressive.

As far as the problems you are having go, does pumping the clutch make any difference?

 

[PlumCrazy]

Sounds like a slave or master cyl problem. The clutch isnt disengaging all the way so the input shaft speed isnt changing when the syncro grabs it. If you run it this way long enough the lining on the syncros will wear enough that they will not grab the input even after you fix the slave/ master problem.

-plumcrazy

 

[RangerAbuser666]

PartsGuy: Pumping doesn't help it.

Plumcrazy: I'm hoping that isn't the case but it may be. I think that may have been the issue with trans #1 as well...

 

[kevinsranger]

my friend had the same problem with his 04, check the fluid level in the master, its prob low, we filled his up, and its been working perfectly, we cant find a leak tho

 

[GeorgiaBoy 87]

mines doing the same almost. main 1st through 3rd gears. pops out of first when coasting to a stop. dont know what it could be.

 

[RangerAbuser666]

Luckily I have nothing popping out yet.

Sometimes, when I let the clutch out a little it will let it slip into gear from neutral.

I added fluid and it got slightly better, but now I smell that lovely sweet burning transmission smell from time to time...

Thank GOD it almost paid for!!!

 

[RangerAbuser666]

I spoke to the clowns at the dealership that fixed it originally and it was the master that went out originally after 20k. They said it sounds like the same problem and I should bring it in for a new clutch kit (includes the master) and I'll walk away for about $1000...
rrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr

 

[gw33gp]

You should not need a new clutch kit at 66,000 miles. I just did mine at 106,000 miles and the clutch looked like it still had another 100,000 miles left on it. The throw out bearing is what went bad on mine, so I did a complete clutch job while was in there.

You should consider a new master before doing anything else. It is much easier to replace and may solve your problem. My master was changed at around 20,000 miles under warranty also. In fact, they had to change is twice because the first one was defective. Fortunately, it is still working well but I do keep an eye on the reservoir.

 

[OHNO50]

The last place you want to bring it is the dealer. If your not up to the job yourself find a small shop with a good reputation. Their hourly shop rate should be affordable and they won't rape you on the cost of the parts.

 

[RangerAbuser666]

I know I should avoid the dealership but Las Vegas is very hard to locate a repair shop that won't screw you.

I don't think I have all the stuff I need to do the master myself right now. I've done engine swaps and trani replacements before but I had a shop to do it in. If I have to drop my trani I don't have the means these days.

 

[Defective]

If you hit third, then second and up to first it should make things a little easier until you get it figured out.

Inspect the line real good for kinks or small leaks that could let air in for starts, then bleed the system.

The tech articles have some helpful information about bleeding the system.