Stealth Ranger Build

[djkommando]

well im finally at the point where the engine is going in so i decided id start a build thread to show whats goin on and also to make it easier when i run into a stupid problem someone can help out. also i will use as many pictures as i can since i know people here always want pictures. so here goes

86 ranger, 2wd, reg cab long bed, was 2.3/5 spd, factory 3.73LS.
the reason for the stealth name is the truck is going completely flat black. that means everything but lights and glass, and glass will be tinted.
motor - 87 HO block, .030 over, hypereutectic pistons, comp XE264HR cam and matching valvetrain kit,1.7 ratio roller tip rockers, GT40P heads and intake, 65mm throttle body, mass air, cfr performance billet accessory brackets and underdrive pullies, tuff stuff performance 100A alternator and high flow water pump.
if theres anything else you want to know just ask, its a lot of crap



drivers side mount in existing hole (the one thats further back)



spent all day fighting and i cant get the motor mounts to go in the holes and sit right



motor mounts stud is behind the crossmember and the engine seems to be sitting in a good spot, possibly needs to be further back



rear clearance




front clearance
still need to fit a 2 core radiator and electric taurus fan



after all this my problem now is whats the easiest way to get this to fit where i need, im using the mustang convertible mounts on the side theyre supposed to be, so does it make a difference if i swap em side to side or would i be better off w/ the adapter mount plates. also whats the easiest way to get the mounts in, i tried bolting them to the engine and dropping them in ans also putting the mounts on the crossmember and sitting the engine on top and neither way wanted to cooperate. so let me know what you think so i can get this thing rolling. i finally have all the major components to get this going and i want to get it done as quickly as possible cuz im very impatient and i got plenty of time to work. so hopefully you should see this come together fairly quickly

also if any more pictures are wanted/needed let me know and ill post them as quick as i can

 

[baddad457]

The Stang mount studs don't fit any of the existing holes in the crossmember. Your motor's too far forward, that much I can see. The mounts need to be swapped side to side, bolted to the motor, then the motor and trans set into place, leveled front to back with a carpenters level set on the intake flange (upper to lower), Then level it side to side, center the engine between the fenders, do not try using the frame rails for this, they're not centered. When all this is done, aim the trans tail toward the pinion. Next, mark the spots where the mount studs are sitting on the crossmember. Then lift the engine out and cut vertical slots at least double the diameter of the mount studs, this will compensate for the downward movement of the studs when you drop the engine back in. I also made 4 7/16" X 2" studs to replace the mount to engine bolts. Once you've bolted the mounts in place, leave em there if you need to pull the engine back out. Aligning the studs to the mount holes is easier than trying this with bolts. This seems like a lengthly process, but it's the correct way to go about it. You'll only have to do it once.

 

[djkommando]

sounds like a plan. ill mess w/ it tomorrow and see if i can get it in. i just cant lower the engine and trans as a unit cuz my ceiling is too low, i barely had enough room to get the motor over the rad. support. i guess ill have to do a little extra work. but thanks for the detailed instructions. it makes it much clearer as to what i gotta do. ill post the outcome as soon as i make some progress.

 

[trail B2]

I would love to drive a v8 rbv.If you put a piece of duct tape over that intake manifold and distributor hole might save yourself some serious grief.

 

[Teddyzee]

FWIW, my mounts are on the "Correct" sides. If moving the motor back further, test fit your upper intake... Mine fit, but the bolts are a MFer to reach.

I also found it to be a royal PITA to get the motor mount studs into the crossmember. Took some grinding, swearing, prybar, kicking, lifting, swearing to do it.
Others have put studs in the block, mounts on the crossmember, and did it that way. I can't imagine fitting my hands or a wrench in there to tighten the mounts to the block if done that way.
I shimmed one side with some washers between the mount and crossmember.

Keep at it, it will work.

 

[Mac]

What headers/exhaust manifolds are you planning to use?
Dave

 

[Teddyzee]

What headers/exhaust manifolds are you planning to use?
Dave

Good point.... while you have the engine on the lift, fit your headers.
My mounts required a slight trim to clear the header. Also, mine went on easiest with the engine a couple inchs in the air- headers on, then fight to get the mounts in the crossmember.

This is before clearance, header bolts re not tightened:

As far as engine placement, here's a good shot of my 'vert mount. (as I've said, mine are from a Lincoln Mark VII LSC, '94/'95 coupes are same parts number as well.) You can see just how offset the bolts are on mine.

 

[djkommando]

What headers/exhaust manifolds are you planning to use?
Dave

i have a set that i got for free from my friends dad who had them sitting around and ive had them sitting so id figure id see if i can make em work. all i know is that theyre for a 70s or so mustang, long tube, "custom hedders" brand. ill have to try and sneak em in today.
i tried looking them up to find more info and i cant find anything that they even exist.


also on another note, about half an hr ago i decided to take the rad. support out to make it easier to get the motor and trans in as one, luckily i replaced the rad. support a little while back and just used self-tapping screw to put it back together just in case i needed to take it out for just this reason. few more screws to go and its out. hopefully today i can make some decent progress.

 

[djkommando]

well didnt get too far today. i couldnt find flywheel bolts so i didnt get to try to fit the motor but i got the engine bay painted and figured out the headers wont work. i just tried puttin one side on and it hit a spark plug and the motor mount. so if anyone wants them they are for sale just make an offer. they were never installed just some paint is scratched from moving around and i have the collectors for them too. im just gonna order the ford racing P head headers. hopefully they fit w/ no problems.

 

[baddad457]

too. im just gonna order the ford racing P head headers. hopefully they fit w/ no problems.

Well I'll go this far now to save you more money. Those P head Mustang headers aren't going to work either. Not without a big asss frame notch on the passenger side. Only P head headers will work are the ones for the Explorer and the super expensive Torque Monsters. There were P head tri-Y's awhile back, but as far as anyone knows, they're no longer made. But you're welcome to look around though.

 

[Teddyzee]

Any other headers designed for '65-'70 Mustangs fit the Ranger? Sounds plausible, as that's what the tri-Y's were for.

I know many brands of Fox Mustang headers actually fit the "P" heads, just from reading the Corral threads.

Just throwing out ideas.

My bro did some heavy header modification in his car, just took patience, and cutting/rewelding small sections at a time. (I beleive he used Pacestter shorties in his RX7/5.0. Driver's side need the modification)
You can see the header right against the block, above the mount here (and the elusive 1980-ish dipstick pan)

I'm not recommending these headers, just showing that headers can be modified.

Tri-y in the Ranger for reference:

 

[baddad457]

What slave cylinder and bell housing is that ?

 

[djkommando]

well i guess the next question would be is, which is easier to fit in general, long tube or shorty?

just found these
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G9063/?rtype=7
they look like they could work since all the tube go down more vs back and may have better plug clearance. plus theyre block huggers, have the oval ports, and theyre cheap.

 

[Teddyzee]

What slave cylinder and bell housing is that ?

The grey block is my bro's RX7. Its a stock Mustang T-5 belhousing, and it's a Willwood pull-slave, sitting in the clutch cable hole. It normally has a heat shield over it. I took these pics while discussing slave options, but there's no way the Pull slave would work with Tri-Y headers. I did some measuring...

His setup uses a Willwood master, as well. Very simple, and works perfect. None of the hassle bleeding my Ford stuff. It's his clutch setup to was the final straw in making me (us...) do my swap. It just didn't look as hard as I thought.

djkommando, good luck with the headers. I don't really have any more info. But did look up the FPA try-y's for gt40P heads..
http://www.fordpowertrain.com/289302triy.htm

 

[djkommando]

just ordered the summit block huggers i listed above from summit to see if they fit. i dont mind doing some grinding on stuff so ill see what happens. they should be here tomorrow or thurs.