Stall in Park and Neutral

[PGHFord]

Cleaned the IAC, wasnt gummed up with a whole lot of carbon, but cleaned the passage. Problem is now that the truck is back up and running from the TFI issue I had, it idled fine all the time I warmed the truck up in park and timed the engine 10 degrees before top dead center. The problem I was having before this whole thing is back, went for a spin around the block came back, put it in neutral and it did a slow die no stumble. Could the selnoid for the IAC be bad and is not acting fast enough to catch it going into park or neutral? Thoughts or suggestions?

 

[PGHFord]

Actually after doing some research when I read codes yesterday one of the codes, code 22 in the second set(long term storage) was MAP sensor out of range, was reading on issues to refresh memory with a bad MAP and sure enough stalling, erractic idle, pinging. I have at times had a dead pan feeling situation climbing hills before once in a blue moon, and have had pinging on low octane gas climbing hills at light throttle. hmmm

 

[PGHFord]

Driveability symptoms that can be caused by a bad
MAP sensor, grounds or opens in the sensor’s wiring
circuit, vacuum leaks in the sensor hose or intake
manifold include hard starting, hesitation, engine
misfires, stalling, rough or erratic idle, pinging, black
exhaust smoke (rich fuel condition resulting in high
hydrocarbon emissions), poor fuel economy and
generally poor engine performance.

 

[trail B2]

Don't forget if you unplugged the maf in any of your testing or repair it will give you that out of range code.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Did you reset the computer and erase the memory. Pull the IAC out and clean the throttle body get a new gasket and put it back together. Erase the computer memory by starting the KOEO test and when it starts throwing codes end the test. Then disconnect the battery for at least 30 minutes to reset the computer. Start it up and run it for about 20 minutes at medium speeds for the computer to set the new values and while the engine is still hot run the codes again. You need to reset the computer and erase the memory after cleaning or changing a sensor and run the codes again to confirm the repair.

 

[shane96ranger]

When you timed it, did you pull the SPOUT connector?

Could also be a vacuum leak.


Sent from a Commodore 64 using a 300 baud modem

 

[kimcrwbr1]

When you timed it, did you pull the SPOUT connector?

Could also be a vacuum leak.


Sent from a Commodore 64 using a 300 baud modem

+! replace any vacuum lines that are hard or cracked and put a new PCV valve and hose I put a hose clanp on the end of the PCV also just for giggles. The PCV is the most neglected tune up item you cannot clean it just put in new with spark plugs there cheap.

 

[PGHFord]

Checked vacuum lines last week and fixed hard/cracked brittle section in EGR line, checked other lines over well, PCV was replaced just this pass summer as were the plugs,cap,rotor, wires, air filter, and both fuel(one in the can, one along the rail)filters in July. PCV hose is fine and tight. Yep when I timed it I pulled the SPOUT connector idle dropped down during timing, Throttle body was cleaned 5 years ago all new gaskets. That is one thing I did not do after replacing the TFI is unhook the Neg battery cable to clear codes/reset, figured computer would recompensate on its own the faults, I had it idling a good long while in park before I went for a spin around the block, purred like a kitty, until I came back and put it into neutral and slow die stall within 1 or 2 seconds, the engine didnt even rev up or down, just nice easy all the way to 0 rpms. LOL

 

[PGHFord]

Don't forget if you unplugged the maf in any of your testing or repair it will give you that out of range code.

I did unplug it and try to start it the other night when it quit running to see if it would start, the MAP. Its something in conjunction between these two sensors, in the morning sometimes it was stumbling around when you start it and it would stall, start it again and it would run/idle fine, some mornings it would start and no issue, a lot of time you would through it in reverse or drive and give it the gas it would stumble a little and then go. I dont think the IAC is working fast enough its probably about 6 or 7 years old it was aftermarket part and they dont last for ever, with age it probably got lazy. LOL

 

[PGHFord]

Some others things the FPR(Fuel Pressure Regulator) was replaced last year, thinking cold start issue stumble was from that, never fixed issue just let it ride since I wasnt havent any driveability problems on road. When I had the intake plenum off and cleaned it I also took the fuel injectors out and cleaned them and put new gaskets and end seal caps on them and replaced injector harness, but that was 5 years ago. Being I live in Pittsburgh with lots of hills, I was starting to think the MAP was having some issues, it would run fine on level ground but sometimes climbing the hill underload it would act like it would bog down, you could feel as you pushed the gas that dead pan feel, back off the gas and push the gas pedal back down some it would go away, sometimes it would continue, was thinking that the MAP could be sticking. There is a vacuum contol switch with a cap on it with a filter under it, I replaced that 2 years ago after you turned off truck it would sound like it was releasing vacuum(makes some sorta noise) unlike before with the old one I replaced never made a noise, since I fixed the EGR line it makes the noise even more pronounced now after you shut the engine off, I am assuming I have increased the amount of vacuum in the system now. One thing I do not do is scrimp on my Fords, LOL, its like a game. When I bought this truck off some younger dude back in 2002 for 700.00 it had a blown tranny which I rebuilt, also for the longest time the fuel pumps would run continuously until I found out someone did a barn job and bypassed the inertia switch and relay had to retrace wires and got it all hooked back up the way it should be so when you run the codes you can pin point issues accurately. I cant complain about this 26 year old ranger, aftermarket parts as I said before dont last forever. Figure if I come online since im a Ford Fan and like rangers/explorers that I would share my issues im having and hear what others have to say, together we can fix what issues we have with em.

 

[PGHFord]

+! replace any vacuum lines that are hard or cracked and put a new PCV valve and hose I put a hose clanp on the end of the PCV also just for giggles. The PCV is the most neglected tune up item you cannot clean it just put in new with spark plugs there cheap.

My First vehicle was a 73 pinto 2.0L Carb of course, I can remember replacing the vacuum line on the PCV with rubber hose, I went up a hill and the engine was experiencing sever loss of power, when I got back home I started looking around the engine to see if anything was loose, as I was working the throttle by hand under the hood when I would get the RPMS up the engine would start stumbling like it was dieing, out of the corner of my eye I could see that rubber hose collapsing shut, like someone was pinching it, the issue was as the vacuum increased the rubber hose clamped itself shut, fixed it by putting a piece of hard plastic tubing inside, fixed the issue, needless to say in my pcv line on this ranger I have the hard piece of plastic tubing inside. I sorta jacked my thread, but something to consider for others.

 

[PGHFord]

Fixed new IAC and MAP sensor. No Stalls in park and neutral. So far