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Spring pack advice?


87anger

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 5, 2012
Messages
269
City
Nevada
Vehicle Year
1987
Transmission
Manual
I just bought a set of 4dr explorer leafs from the junkyard. After I got home I started examining them and found this:
P08-13-12_12-44.jpg
P08-13-12_12-43.jpg

The top spring is bent up on one of them. I figure I can probably use my Ranger top leafs and the other explorer leafs and make it work though.

This got me thinking about combining the packs. I am trying to acheive 4" of lift in the rear to match the front. I will be using the auto zone drop shackles. Oh also should note im replacing my current leaf springs because I found that the middle leaf on the drivers side is in half at the center.

Will the Ranger eye leaf work on the exp pack?
And if it does what combination of leafs should I use?
 
Ranger, Explorer and Bronco II leafs are all interchangeable.

I built custom packs for three of my trucks so far. I've averaged around 2" of lift with each pack. I built a 4-leaf pack for the Ranger, a 5-leaf pack for my choptop and it's either a 5 or 6 leaf pack on my F-150. Use the longest leafs you can. In my case, I pick the better main spring, then cut the spring eyes off the unused main leaf, then start stacking the rest. Longer leafs make for a softer pack (and thus you can increase hauling capacity without making it feel like you welded the rear axle to the frame). I usually replace the anti-squeak pads and put some axle grease on the rub points of the springs before re-assembly (most spring shops will sell replacement pads).
 
Ranger, Explorer and Bronco II leafs are all interchangeable.

I built custom packs for three of my trucks so far. I've averaged around 2" of lift with each pack. I built a 4-leaf pack for the Ranger, a 5-leaf pack for my choptop and it's either a 5 or 6 leaf pack on my F-150. Use the longest leafs you can. In my case, I pick the better main spring, then cut the spring eyes off the unused main leaf, then start stacking the rest. Longer leafs make for a softer pack (and thus you can increase hauling capacity without making it feel like you welded the rear axle to the frame). I usually replace the anti-squeak pads and put some axle grease on the rub points of the springs before re-assembly (most spring shops will sell replacement pads).

Okay so then I will probably use the Ranger top leaf, Maybe cut the expo top leafs and use them next(depending on just how bent it is) and figure it out from there. So I shouldnt have any problems with interweaving the expo and ranger leafs, thats good. I thought you shouldnt because they are different thicknesses.

I dont have any spring shops in my town, only auto parts stores and rip-off auto shops. Do the parts store chains sell these pads(oh and spring bolts)?

Also I have never changed the bushings on leafs, I understand that they have to be pressed in. Is there any way to do this at home with basic tools or will I have to take it to some machine shop to do it?
 
You can make a tool with a bolt and some washers but I usually just get them pressed in. They MIGHT charge you 20.00 bucks or so.
 
Here's my 4" spring packs. Explorer mains then mix/matched ranger/expo leaves. These have 8" of arch to them.

314147_3768839591561_1483658969_n.jpg
 
You can make a tool with a bolt and some washers but I usually just get them pressed in. They MIGHT charge you 20.00 bucks or so.

Okay do you think machine shops could do it? Unfortunately I dont really have any "specialty" shops in my town. How does that tool work exactly? I might just have to do that.

BTW perty spring pack:drool: :D
 
Here's a little drawing I made up real quick. Just use a long bolt and some washers to "press" it in. Use an impact gun.

You can usually hammer it in halfway.

523183_4031762964481_601649358_n.jpg
 
Here's a little drawing I made up real quick. Just use a long bolt and some washers to "press" it in. Use an impact gun.

You can usually hammer it in halfway.

523183_4031762964481_601649358_n.jpg

Oh okay that makes sense. Thank you.

Too bad I dont have an impact gun or compressor. Maybe i can find someone though.
Where did you get your spring pads or insulators or whatever theyre called?
 
My shop. I work at a suspension shop so I have everything available at my fingertips.

I put galvinized spacer plates (they are VERY thin) between the leaves to eliminate rust buildup and plastic friction pads at the end of the springs to eliminate the leaves gouging into the other leaves as well as replaced the spring eye bushings. All in all, I had maybe $50 in rebuilding these springs.

And you dont NEED an impact gun, it just makes it easier. I would also use a coarse thread bolt so you dont have to turn the nut as many times.
 
My shop. I work at a suspension shop so I have everything available at my fingertips.

I put galvinized spacer plates (they are VERY thin) between the leaves to eliminate rust buildup and plastic friction pads at the end of the springs to eliminate the leaves gouging into the other leaves as well as replaced the spring eye bushings. All in all, I had maybe $50 in rebuilding these springs.

And you dont NEED an impact gun, it just makes it easier. I would also use a coarse thread bolt so you dont have to turn the nut as many times.

oh wow that would be nice to work there. Okay I guess after I get off of work today ill start calling some parts stores and see if they carry them. I noticed they carry the clamps and bushings, just need to find out if they can get me the bolts and insulators.

and wow $50 thats awesome I paid that for my messed up expo leafs
 
RB131 is the shackle end bushing part # and RB159 is the front eye bushing part # on your rear leaf springs for OEM Rangers from 1983-2001

They are available on RockAuto.com which is one of our vendors here. Rears are 10.00 and some change and the fronts are 12.00. Use the discount code in their vendor thread to recieve 5% off your order.
 
You can probably find replacement spring pads online somewhere. Parts stores typically do not carry them.

I usually just burn out the old bushings then use a hammer and cold chisel to cut the sleeve out. I just order new poly bushing sets from like James Duff or Summit since they don't have to be pressed in or out.

I have used grade 5 or grade 8 bolts for replacement centering pins before, but it's recommended that you use a real centering pin.

Just make sure when you cut down a leaf that it is shorter than the leaf above it in the pack and that the cut leaf from one pack matches a cut leaf in the other pack for length. Also good to dog ear the ends of cut leafs. Drilling out new holds for pads sucks, but it can be done.
 
You can probably find replacement spring pads online somewhere. Parts stores typically do not carry them.

I usually just burn out the old bushings then use a hammer and cold chisel to cut the sleeve out. I just order new poly bushing sets from like James Duff or Summit since they don't have to be pressed in or out.

I have used grade 5 or grade 8 bolts for replacement centering pins before, but it's recommended that you use a real centering pin.

Just make sure when you cut down a leaf that it is shorter than the leaf above it in the pack and that the cut leaf from one pack matches a cut leaf in the other pack for length. Also good to dog ear the ends of cut leafs. Drilling out new holds for pads sucks, but it can be done.

Didnt know poly bushings dont have to be pressed. Thats good to know.

Ok so what youre saying is that if I cut the explorer top leafs it must match one of of the ranger pack? I am not sure what you mean by dog earing. like grinding it smooth right? So you have to drill holes for pads, okay.

Thanks for all the tips and patience guys I am extremely new to this stuff and want to do it right.
 
:icon_idea: I forgot he was using the Ranger main leaves. Yes, of COURSE they sell 2 piece poly bushings for those! They dont for explorer mains unfortunately.
 

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