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Spray Bed Liners


2009 sport

Active Member
Joined
Jan 1, 2009
Messages
31
City
Phila. PA
Vehicle Year
2009
Transmission
Automatic
I'm looking for a good spray-in liner.
I have a texture gun from harbor freight, good compressor and want to go the DIY route. I'd like to get some feedback on what you guys have had good results with.
Looking for a plain black, sort of softer compound stuff.
Thanks.
Mike.
 
i used Raptor liner from NAPA on mine and like it. its starting to chip in some places where i put it on too thin but overall it looks just as good as Rhino liner. it doesnt shine either like that walmart stuff
 
first im sick as $#!t so im not fixing spelling
i used hurculiner on my truck and i liked it. i can be used with SOME spray guns, iv see then end result of it being sprayed on and it looked good. i painted it on my truck. i like it casue you can scuff it up and recoat as many times as you need too. so if something happend and just ripped in to it. it can be fixed at home. to spray stuff on my truck was gonna be 600 bucks, i did it for 200 bucks and h ahve about 3/5 coats (two gallons) depending on were in the truck, ie heavy rubbed spots bed rails tops of wheel wells got 5 coats its

my 2 cents
 
I used Herculiner (rolled it on, not sprayed) on my Ranger..it turned out pretty ok. Just make sure you take your time and get every corner and spot to make it look good. I personally would spend the extra money to Line-X it (on my 99 Ranger, it cost about $350)..professionally done plus lifetime warranty (as long as you own the truck).
 
Yeah, but it still beats the $300-$500 to have a shop do it.:shok:

All the DIY products out there cost around this much.

hurculiner is 80ish a gallon, with out the "KIT" the kit comes with like a roller and a paint brush and a rubber glove. i just but a cheep paint brush dap the corners and dump the can and smear around.
 
Its a lot to read but this is the right way to do it

I spray 5 or 6 trucks at work a week and the important part to a good liner like all paint applications is prep work, if you are spraying with a gun you want to make sure to tape the truck with a wire tape (tape with a wire in it to cut the liner and not pull it off) regular tape wont pull through a sprayed liner or it shouldnt, if it does its too thin and wont last. Cover more of the truck than you think you need to cause overspray with this stuff is a bitch. after it is masked start sanding, I sand my trucks with a 80 grit sandpaper around the edges being sure to sand to the very edge of the tape and the rest with a fiber wheel on a buffer ( DO NOT USE A GRINDER, YOU WAND LOW RPM'S). After it is sanded blow out any dust or dirt and wash out with a good thinner making sure to wash in small (3ft square areas) and then wipe of buff with a dry cloth to remove residue from the thinners if you dont wipe the residue the liner wont stick. When you are saticefied that it is clean wipe with a tack cloth, you will be supprised how much dust this will pick up. your truck is now ready to spray, the system I use heats and mixes the 3 parts up the liner before it gets to the gun yours wont. It is always a good Idea to warm your material before spraying even a cold spray product will benifet from being warm you dont need it really hot just a little warm ( I recomend heating before mixing ). When I spray I do it from inside the truck starting on the drivers side with a up and down pattern spray the side of the box not including the wheel well until I get to the other side of the wheel well then I spray the top of the hump and the side til I get back to the box side where I ended and work my way to the front corner where I make three passes over the top lip of the front of the box and down the pass side corner and accross the bottom corner back to the dr side then a up and down pattern accross the front pannel to the passenger side of the truck and continue down the passenger side of the boxside in the same manner as the driver side. when I get to the taillight area i will come back up the floor til I get to the wheel well and put a second coat on the wheel well and continue up towards the cab on the corner of the floor and around to the driver side wheel well for its second coat and back to the driver side taillight, then repeat so you have 2 coats of the sides and 3 on the wheel wells. time for the floor, its done in three sections, start at the cab and spray 1/3 of the way back then spray a layer over that stopping about 4 inches before the first coat, and another on top of that stopping about 4 inches before the second coat. next spray the next 1/3rd of the floor in the same manner, 3 coats each meeting where the other one ended so they are over lapped and leaving about a 4 inch difference at the ends. the final 1/3rd of the floor is done the same way at this point you will be standing on a step stool at the back of the truckand each coat will end at the end of the box but meet overlapping where the last coat ended, the overlapping ensures a level seam whete each section meets. to get your texture turn your air pressure up and spray a mist over the truck as quick as you can about 5 ft away from where the mist is landing, repeat until you get desired texture ( three coats for me ) of cours the tailgate is off the truck and needs to be done seperatly with three even coats and mist coates for texture.

My gun dont have a trigger, I have to have flow at all times or the material will harden in the gun and I will need to change the tip which has to be changed for every liner I can only turn the flow on and off and adjust air pressure, I dont know how much of this is relevent to you but this is how it is done professionally

SAFETY: if you dont have a fresh air system make sure you use some sort of resperator this shit will kill you, get a tyveck sute and wear gloves and dont weal footwear that you like cause you will ruin them

I hope this helps you get a better liner, take pics and let us know how it turns out
 
perma-tek.... i did mine myself, and 3 other trucks.... no chalking after 5 years on one of them... imo its the only way to go
 
fx2prerunner,

Why don't you take a few pictures at work and then submit them with the text of your post to Jim Oaks for a tech article. That is a great bit of work and helped me understand what a DIY on my truck would involve. I'll print it out and put it in the back of my Haynes manual, but it would be a good tech article.
 
fx2prerunner,

Why don't you take a few pictures at work and then submit them with the text of your post to Jim Oaks for a tech article. That is a great bit of work and helped me understand what a DIY on my truck would involve. I'll print it out and put it in the back of my Haynes manual, but it would be a good tech article.

I was thinking about doing that but not everyone has access to a properly vented spray booth, with a fresh air system and I dont know how relevent the information is to someone trying to do this in their garage or driveway. I guess I could get some pics together and submit it and let Jim decide how relevent it is.
 
Thanks for the input.
It's always good to get tips from an industry insider.
I almost forgot about that wire tape. I looked for it a few years back (when I was going to do my old truck) and every auto body supply I stopped in looked at me like I was from Mars when I asked if they had any.:dntknw:

I'm starting to think I should just pry my wallet open and spend the extra bucks to have it done.
Anybody have an idea of how much Line-X would charge for a new 6' Ranger bed. I'm thinking of a little over the side rails and tailgate as well.
Thanks.
Mike.
 

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