(Solved)Fluid Question

[sgtsandman]

Yeah I'm trying to get my stick as reliable as possible because my wife's 2010 F150 SuperCrew "Black Cherry" is starting to slip gears.
If Cherry goes down because of the transmission it's going to take me more than a few days to repair at least she has the 4.6 so the motors the last thing that in theory would go out
2wd but unfortunately even with lower mileage I think previous owners towed, don't think it's the torque converter because I've towed over a couple tons with a loaded trailer and it tugs like a horse wearing a hat .
These summers are hell in Texas though thinking a fluid change might prevent a disaster in hers also.

Changing the fluid and filter might help. Some have suggested checking the band adjustment as well. I'm no transmission expert, so I'm just parroting what others that work in the things have said in the past.

If the fluid age is an unknown, you might want to consider a triple drain and fill. Drain the fluid and change the filter. Drive it so it runs through all the gears. Drain it again and drive it. Then a final drain and filter. I remember that fixing a good number of transmission problems back in my Honda CR-V days (of course I had manuals then as well).

 

[nickname23]

Ok I'll need to get better pictures because the plot thickens.
So... Transmission ain't leaking! Fluid is actually where it needs to be and the rail plugs are bone dry in fact the entire transmission is dry except the front which appears to be engine oil! The rear spot seems to be a past issue, checked after a drive and still dry.
Driver's side of the oil pan has oil but the passenger side is dry. Interesting is fresh oil is coming from above the starter or right next to it? It might also be partially steering fluid but it's mostly oil.
Last time I changed the oil was 300 miles it's full there's no way I can add anymore oil and I didn't cheap out on it either.

Could it be possible the leak may have slowed?
Definitely will update with better pictures, all the fresh oil is gravity so I'm really hopeful it's not the rear main or maybe it sealed back up? Heard that can happen if your lucky.

Did have a random misfire and my driver's exhaust manifold does leak, temporary backfire! possibly this gunk is a mixture of 3 different things!

 

[nickname23]

Forgot what brand of oil, but it's full synthetic high mileage oil and it's the correct viscosity probably thinner because it's a Texas truck.
Fresh oil is underneath the oil filter but the filter seems dry
Oil housing gasket!?

 

[sgtsandman]

It sounds like the oil pan gasket is leaking from what you are describing.

 

[nickname23]

It sounds like the oil pan gasket is leaking from what you are describing.

It is but there's still oil coming from somewhere else.. Apparently it's not much but oil can definitely make a mess it don't take much

 

[sgtsandman]

It is but there's still oil coming from somewhere else.. Apparently it's not much but oil can definitely make a mess it don't take much

I don't know that engine enough. Oil sending unit leaking, maybe?

 

[nickname23]

Think so, it's such a small leak the additive package in the new oil seems to be helping a lot.
Getting pictures tonight or tomorrow with a good light on it.
Might be able to do the oil pan when it starts getting real bad, don't look to hard the only issue I see is wiggling it out once it's unbolted.
MAF sensor is throwing a fit now, gonna clean that today and the throttle it's probably the starter fluid I was using during the last repair.

 

[nickname23]

Is reverse the same way? Not the popping out of gear but hard to get the transmission into gear. When mine gets like that, changing the fluid fixes it for me.

Reverse is solid, slight wall but it's not hard to engage funny thing is because our parking situation that's how I learned how to drive stick was backwards.

Bad news Goldstar broke down the street at AutoZone went to check if codes were cleared. Thinking the MAF Sensor is getting overheated and worn out. Cleaning it up helps and I cleaned up the throttle body he ran great but now he won't stay running. Saying too high temperature on air intake circuit.

 

[nickname23]

Going to buy another sensor either through Ranger Station or Salvage Yard tomorrow regardless

It looks like the Hard Code isn't back yet but too high temperature seems like a Soft Code it doesn't trigger CEL but if the engine is at operating temp the truck is near impossible to keep idle.
Sensor itself is very warm to touch.