solid axle made outa a ttb?

[PanamaExpat]

PanamaExpat is that your steering setup? If not, who's is it and where can I learn more about it?


Steve

I am not sure who's truck it id but it is in the tech library here: http://www.therangerstation.com/Magazine/winter2008/steering_tech.htm
I am thinking that when I do my radius arm modification following Brinker's set up that I will install this steering setup.

OOPS.. didn't read down far enough to see that someone else pointed you in the right direction. But as you can see you can get many and sometimes too many good ideas from this site.

 

[85broncduece]

Well as it sits no change Im starting to look more at the linkage due to the fact I cant find any other thing out of wack. How much wider is the d35 vs the d28 and how much wider would a d44 ttb be over the d35. I can get them compleete for the same price. the trucks allready coilovered so spring mounting isnt an issue. Since Im gonna end up with a swing set steering Id like to get as much width as possible but still within my fab skills. I dont feel comfortable extending beams myself. It looks like I can build the swinger quite easily. what would be the best way to plate the piman arm. Id also like to run 1 ton tre. is it still possible to run them on the pitman or are heims my only option due to the two links on the pit. arm.

 

[adsm08]

A 35 is not much wider than a 28. My front tires are still inside the fenders.

A D44 has to be narrowed just to fit. The whole point of running the 35 axles with the 44 outers is that it upgrades in all the places the 44 is stronger than the 35 but leaves the 35 beams that fit under Ranger frame.

 

[85broncduece]

Im running 6in feders up front, so clearance I dont think will be an issue. Also to get the extra track width I want with the d35 I would most likley have to extend the beams. So I think Im lookin more into the full size d44 ttb. Seems to be the easiest for me to end up wider. I just need to keep researching on the steering and how to keep it all in line after Ive swaped beams and build some radius arms to fit the 44. And the big stupid Q? can this be done in a weekend with the parts pre fabbed? Im just talking changing beams and puting things inplace welding/bolting parts in , or am I borrowing a car from some one? I like to think Im a little more capable than your average shady tree but not a technitian by any means. Ive been threw a few of the local college courses and been playin under the hood of cars since about 13 (30 now) just new to the ttb. I just dont wanna get in over my head and find out im beyond the point of no return. Id like to plan things out before and Thanks every one! I probly woulda scrapped this thing if it wasnt for this site and the people/information on here. tech library here I come. lol

 

[PanamaExpat]

If you work as slowly as I do then I would say your answer is no. Even if you are fairly quick about it you would still be pushing the envelope. Remember the moment you think you have it all together you will find you need one $2 part and won't be able to get it until Monday. Keep us up to date on your project especially the swingset. I am very interested in just how well they function.

 

[85broncduece]

Ill make sure to post a build thread when I finally stack up the funds. Im figureing arround $400 will get me started with some 3/16" plate, dom tubing and the new beams. what should I look at besides brakes wheel bearings and ball joints when chosing my beams at the bone yard.

 

[86MUDRCJ]

From what I was told the 35 is about 2" wider than the 28.

 

[FritzTKatt]

Pivot bushings could be a pita to remove and reinstall. That could set your weekend back a few hours if you don't have them ready. I'd look for one with good bushings but prepare to replace. The bolt for the coil seat on the axle siezed up on me... also broke a breaker bar on my pitman arm.

 

[4x4junkie]

I don't think a single-swing setup will work well with your drop brackets (there would still be the misalignment of the linkage with your beam at the pitman arm), you'll need double-swingers (or the FA600 arm you're trying to avoid) to have that side lined up with the plane of your beam pivots.

Here's a couple examples that might work if you're afraid a traditional-style K-kink isn't what you want... It's kindof like cross-breeding the K-link with a crossover setup.
http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=119782
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=337182

Might save you a little $$$ over a double-swinger setup as it's simpler (has fewer moving parts). Drawback is they still have the tierods bent for clearance (not as sturdy as the straight tierods you can use when center-mounted on the centerlink).


As for axle widths:

D28 = 58"
D35 = 59.5"
D44 = 65"*

* provided you either maintain the D44's narrower pivot spacing dimensions, or you lengthen each beam 1" next to the pivot. Without that the axle will be 2" narrower when mounted straight to the RBV pivot brackets (requiring slight trimming of the passengerside axle shaft).

Any one near the pomona ca area wanna take it for a spin and give me their thoughts?

I'm maybe around 60 miles west of you if you want to make a trip out this way.

 

[94 lngbd]

thread jack-a-lop
Has anyone ever welded the Twin-Beam Ford suspension for the 2wd's together. I was wondering if that could be done until I swap to a sas after all I already have a 5.5" suspension lift on my 2wd.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

@ 94 ingbd

I can't think of a good reason to do so. But lots of stuff I do doesn't have any reasoning to it. The earlier ones are weldable but I'm not sure of exact years. There was a thread on IIRC Jalopy Journal where someone took a straight axle car and fit in tib so the reverse should be possible.

Richard

 

[brinker88]

thread jack-a-lop
Has anyone ever welded the Twin-Beam Ford suspension for the 2wd's together. I was wondering if that could be done until I swap to a sas after all I already have a 5.5" suspension lift on my 2wd.

They have a pretty vivid warning on the 2wd beams saying DO NOT WELD. If I were you, I would definitely think about NOT welding them together.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

They have a pretty vivid warning on the 2wd beams saying DO NOT WELD. If I were you, I would definitely think about NOT welding them together.

I'm pretty sure that the earlier beams had no such warning. IIRC pre-88 or so. I think the desert racers/ pre-runners used to use them and cut and welded them for extended length and height.

Richard

 

[94xlt4.0]

I'm pretty sure that the earlier beams had no such warning. IIRC pre-88 or so. I think the desert racers/ pre-runners used to use them and cut and welded them for extended length and height.

Richard

i think it was 88 and older that you can weld. the 89-97 beams are cast which is why the warning. with hat said there are ways to weld the 89-97 its just very tedious. autofab ( www.autofab.com ) out here in san diego makes their money doing cut and turns on the 2wd beams.