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solid axle made outa a ttb?


Hey!, why the hate on solid axles? :annoyed:

Solid axles have their place. In 3/4 ton trucks they are needed. In situations like yours where you want to convert an IFS 2wd to 4x4, they are the easier route to go.

In an existing TTB 4x4 that gets driven on the road the only true advantage is to look tough.
 
thanks adsm still learning the site. but i think whatever he broke in that video is what im dealing with now but tie rods feel tight ball joints are good steering box is finiky though. sometimes its tight somtimes not. and my drivers side rad. arm is a little wavy but still srtaight. they are 1 3/4 x .250 wall dom. ill replace the steering box asap and c wut happens from there.
 
Also, tell the old man that solid axles were great, in the 60's, but he needs to stop spooning Rip Vanwinkle and get with the times.

Yeah, nothing at all like a cutting edge TTB. :icon_rofl:

If it was cheaper/easier I would ditch the mud/snowplow TTB in a heartbeat.
 
One thing about my TTB is it seems to ride smoother I think than solid axle.The Jeeps I run with are newer and I ride a little better on rough roads.This is important if you want to bring home a smiling middle aged G/F at the end of the day.If you want to be a big time 4x4 you need solid axles.There is no place to run a big time 4x4 around here so it has no value to me.
 
cambers been dealt with my coilovers were cranked to much in that pic. Ill get some pics in a little bit of the front end now, I know I have bad tie rod angles but I dont think ny issue caused by bump steer. Im thinking I might have caster isssues after dooing some more reading.
 
cambers been dealt with my coilovers were cranked to much in that pic. Ill get some pics in a little bit of the front end now, I know I have bad tie rod angles but I dont think ny issue caused by bump steer. Im thinking I might have caster isssues after dooing some more reading.

Unless you have obvious play in your steering box (like being able to rock the wheel back & forth a couple inches or more), I'd certainly be looking at getting your tierods in proper alignment with the axle before anything else. Once that's done it'll be much easier to diagnose anything else that might be wrong with it.

See the 2nd link ronclark posted a few posts up.
 
I have read threw both of those several times, I dont wanna seem like a a** hole but I understand how the ttb works. Great write ups though, helped with the decision to keep the ttb instead of full sized d44 Ill be goin to a d35 ttb as soon as funds permit. My steering wheel only has about 1-2 inces movent side side, but its verry stiff. So I should be looking at caster for the no return to center.

heres my camber now
broncoii-3_zps740c4eac.jpg

broncoii-2_zpscfd06f92.jpg

and my linkage
broncoii-1_zps8f8e6fcd.jpg
 
I would look at caster for a non-return issue.

Now what don't you understand about how TTB works?
 
My steering wheel only has about 1-2 inces movent side side, but its verry stiff. So I should be looking at caster for the no return to center.

I wonder if the previous owner monkeyed with the adjustment on the steering box. If they made it too tight, couldn't that cause it to be resistant to centering?
 
After toyin with it some more today, (new st/box) No improvement in return but got easier to turn, I noticed more lift on the pass side than drivers side at full lock. Im startin to think bent beam. How do I measure the beams to tell if they are straight? If the beams are bent I think Im gonna go full size ttb. What is the best year for the d44 ttb? Or does it matter? Theres a couple mid 90s broncos at pick a part not too badly pilledged.
 
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After toyin with it some more today, (new st/box) No improvement in return but got easier to turn, I noticed more lift on the pass side than drivers side at full lock. Im startin to think bent beam. How do I measure the beams to tell if they are straight? If the beams are bent I think Im gonna go full size ttb. What is the best year for the d44 ttb? Or does it matter? Theres a couple mid 90s broncos at pick a part not too badly pilledged.

Really not much advantage over a D35 swap (if you haven't already) aside from the brakes and lockouts.

Before you go swapping axles (unless you have a D28) I would have a good alignment shop take a look at it if you can't get it worked out. I am having a hard time spending the $$ to have my D28 aligned... so far the truck has kept itself off the road so I haven't had to worry too much about it but I know my camber is off.

D35 Swap:

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/D28_D35_swap.html

TTB D44 Swap:

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/Dana44TTBconversion.htm

TTB Alignment:

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/Alignment.html

The Tech Library is full of this kind of stuff if you haven't bumped into it yet :icon_thumby:

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/index.php
 
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search sac (solid axle conversion) the guy has a 90's ranger he had a pretty good build about it
 

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