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Snake oil


Ford doesn't approve any transmission fluid addititves, use quality fluid like Motorcraft and change it once in a while. "Lubed for life" is b/s unless you don't mind a short life. I use Marvel Mystery oil to lube my air tools and used it 30 years ago to free up the carboned up, stuck rings in my father's old 2.0 Ranger. Methanol based drygas can cause all kinds of problems, we used to have good luck with isopropanol based drygas but I haven't used any since 10% ethanol was added to the gas. One of my former techs came to me from a GM dealer, he told me that Cadillac 4.1 engines required "cooling system pellets"(stop leak) added during maintenance, I think every 15k, because they had problems with block porosity. I've never had any faith in mechanic-in-a-can products, usually anything that easy doesn't work.
 
As for Fluid Film, It's probably better than nothing but it doesn't work as well as bar and chain oil and it stinks something awful because it's organic. Some of my former techs would Fluid Film their vehicles in the shop on the weekend and the whole place smelled like something died under a workbench. I know, oil undercoating isn't environmentally friendly but what's the environmental impact of building a new truck because road salt ate the old one?
 
Rain X washer fluid additive - Love this stuff, its 4 bucks and turns normal cheap washer fluid into rain x. Water just beads right off after you squirt your windshield a bit.
That's great stuff.
 
I've sprayed fluid film on stuff that was already rusting and it's kept it from getting any worse without doing anything else for a couple of years. I also use it on mating surfaces of stuff like rotors to hubs and the rotors always just fall right off next time I do brakes where without it it's usually a job requiring a sledge hammer...
 
One of my former techs came to me from a GM dealer, he told me that Cadillac 4.1 engines required "cooling system pellets"(stop leak) added during maintenance, I think every 15k, because they had problems with block porosity.

Subaru "required" a cooling system additive for their 2.5L back in the early 2000s. The second generation (01) Outback I had got the defective head gaskets that leaked out. Their solution was basically just a 5.5oz bottle of Holt's Radwell repackaged as a Subaru product. Add it anytime the coolant is flushed or replaced. Think it's just some sort of flax protein derivative. Probably could have just cracked an egg in there like the old days. I used it and the stuff did work until I pulled the motor at about 95k and did the gaskets and the timing belt etc.

Subaru almost made my sh!t list because of this...
 
Blue Devil coolant system/ block sealer. Put some in a 5.9 Dodge with a leaky head gasket, and it’s still working good 25k miles later.
 
Risoline Nano Prime...

Will freely admit, only bought it because it was marked down from $23 to $2.10.

I have NO idea whats in this stuff, but it makes lifters shut up. Like, instantly.

Changed oil, added it and 5qt of Mobil 1.

Lifter tick at startup was gone until next change. Add MMO after that one, and clacking worse than an AK on a cold morning.
 
Actually, while we're on the subject, does anyone know of a ZDDP additive that actually works?
 
I tried that without grinding but they don't flow a s well.
 
Zddp hasn't been needed on engines since the 60s and even then engine oil technology has advanced way beyond the point its necessary at all... might as well get you some whale oil for your transmission while your at it.
 
I only use it in my 67... New oil rocks for everything else.
 
ZDDP is still needed for flat tappet cams, the zinc and phosphate were removed because if an engine with a cat burns oil with those additives it will poison the cat. I have heard that a fully broken in flat tappet cam will live without zinc but why risk it when the additive is so cheap compared to a ground up cam and metal throughout the engine?
 
I've also heard that the zinc etc has to be incorporated in a certain way (temp etc) for it to actually work so the additives may not work as well as an oil produced with the ZDDP package. I think Lucas and others make old timey fortified oil too. Most if not all are not synthetic base oils.
 

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