slave cylinder release bearing

[kenwheeler]

I picked up a new slave cylinder from Advance Auto today. The release bearing (I think thats what its called) the shiney metal donut that touches the pressure plate fingers is seperated from the plastic thats in the spring thats attached to the slave. Is that ok? Should I just line it up and press it on? Should I take it back? I've been trying to get this truck on the road for some time. I was hoping to turn some rubber on the pavement tomorrow. If I have to order the part again, I'll be waiting until next weekend.

 

[adsm08]

pics? Kinda hard to tell exactly what is going on without seeing it.

 

[99RangerKrazy]

The throwout bearing is not attached to the slave already? All slaves that I've put in have them all as one unit (throwout already attached to the slave), and you just throw the new slave in and you're good to go.

A picture or two would help.

 

[adsm08]

The throwout bearing is not attached to the slave already? All slaves that I've put in have them all as one unit (throwout already attached to the slave), and you just throw the new slave in and you're good to go.

A picture or two would help.

I've had a number of them come out of the box where I had to put the bearing on the spring and the spring on the slave. That's not what I'm worried about.

It almost sounds to me like the metal surface of the bearing is separated from the plastic housing.

 

[kenwheeler]

 

[kenwheeler]

Whoops, forgot to message. So this is how it came out of the packing bag. Can I press the bearing back on or do I need to take it back?

 

[adsm08]

Slop some vasoline around the plastic part, put it back together, and get that bad boy burning rubber.

 

[kenwheeler]

Thanks, I was hoping to be able to reconstruct it. I can only work on this thing on Saturdays so every time I need an ordered part it sets me back a weekend. I've gotten slave cylinders in the past but it's always been a complete unit.

 

[AllanD]

No, not vaseline!

Vaseline if fine for "prepacking" a new oil pump during an engine or Auto trans rebuild because it disolves in oil, but if you use it on a constant contact constant run ball bearing linke a Clutch reloease bearing you'll burn it up.

Do you REALLY want to be replacing it again within a year?

I'd recommend a high temperature wheel bearing grease containing Moly

I personally prefer Valvoline's moly wheel bearing fgrease for this application


that all being said many manufacturers use CHEAP grease on assemblies like
this so when I buy things like U-joints I COMPLETELY disassemble them and
put MY grease in (On U-joints I use synthetic Marine-grade (salt water proof)
"Green" Grease, to which I ADD moly powder (Yes, I've got a 1lb can of Moly
Disulfide powder)

AD