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Slave Cylinder hydraulic system no travel


Could you explain the fix with the BB’s?

Inquiring minds want to know.

Glad you’re mobile again.
 
So the push rod is too short?


Here's the rub with that question, I've compared all three pushrods, the original, the first replacement and the 2nd and they are all the same length. The valve bodies are also all the same length. The mount on the firewall has no signs of wear, deformation, or it damage. Nothing is different as far as I can tell. That being said, I found a more solid way to keep the added length on the push rod and after almost a week of driving, I'm having no issues with the clutch engagement or dusting gears. I'm good with the current set up and do not intend to alter things as long as it's working
 
Could you explain the fix with the BB’s?

Inquiring minds want to know.

Glad you’re mobile again.


Ok, my permanent fix is this:

Took a length of heat shrink tubing (do not get me to.lying about the exact size, it was just the same size as the push rod) and slid it over the end of the push rod just until the first indentation, but not past it. I dropped the 2 BB's in and applied the heat to shrink everything. Then I trimmed the excess at the end of the BB's. I then applied the next size larger heat shrink and again applied the heat to shrink everything. I the put it in the freezer for about 20 min. Everything had hardened at this point. I then used a razor to trim the excess and just left the smallest amount of the BB exposed. I the reinstalled the push rod and I have the proper amount of travel on the way down and in the return of the pedal. It rests at the correct position and I am getting plenty of push to work the clutch. It's going all the way to the floor with proper resistance starting with in the first inch of the pedals movement.
 
Thanks for detailing the method you used!
 
...Nothing is different as far as I can tell...

Congrats on getting it working. Could the inside of one of the master cylinders be made different enough to cause it?
 
Congrats on getting it working. Could the inside of one of the master cylinders be made different enough to cause it?

It's possible, and I was also wondering if in the original that I took off, there was some kind of retainer clip in the valve at the end of the push rod that made the difference as well because the push rod in that one doesn't come out. Short of destroying the part, I couldn't get the push rod to actually release from the valve. I have saved the both of the sets that "didn't work" because I'm still not convinced they are bad parts. Maybe when I have some extra time, I'll set them up and "bench bled" them to see if I can replicate the failures and if there's a solution similar to what I've had to apply to my current set up or what the actual failures were.
 
There actually is supposed to be some kind of retainer. Wouldn't wanna catch the back of the pedal with your toe and pull it apart.
 

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