Slave Cylinder hydraulic system no travel

[Jtrussell1890]

So for starters, not my first go round with these Ford hydraulic slave systems. I know how much of a pita they can be. That being said, I have read no less than 2 dozen posts, threads and watch just as many videos on possible solutions. I'm frustrated and just don't know what to do at this point.

96 2wd 2.3L 5spd (I think it's the 55 transmission). The line at the "quick connect" fitting at the slave cylinder popped off on me in the middle of town. Had the truck towed back home and that's when I found the issue. Ordered and new master cylinder system that was pre bled so I would have to fight with it. The system I ordered included the reservoir, pressure valve and lines pre filled and pre bled. When I installed the new one, I gravity bled at the slave bleeder screw and made sure it was all just fluid coming out. Made sure the reservoir was topped off and then attempted to use the pedal. Had low resistance and almost no travel in the pedal. Once again gravity bled the system. Tried the pedal and still no improvement. Used my mighty vac pump and vacuum bled from the reservoir and was able to get a few small air bubbles out. 3 days I've been bleeding this system and still have no pedal and it won't shift into reverse or first from a stop. I don't know what else to do.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Sounds like the slave cylinder died… since I didn’t see a mention that you replaced that, I’m going with that is your problem…

 

[Jtrussell1890]

Crap, I was afraid of that. I just don't have the means to pull the trans to replace it nor can I afford a shop to do it for me. Ugh ....

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Crap, I was afraid of that. I just don't have the means to pull the trans to replace it nor can I afford a shop to do it for me. Ugh ....

Ehh, the Ranger trans aren’t terrible to do in primative conditions. I’ve actually manhandled the FM-146 before out and back in because I didn’t have a trans jack and a floor jack didn’t go high enough (my Choptop). Really it doesn’t have to come completely out, just down and back far enough to do. For that matter, if you folded back the flooring and pulled the pan on the top of the trans tunnel, you can easily get to bellhousing bolts and you could probably reach through there to swap slaves once you slid the trans back.

My F-150 has a ZF5 trans currently which because it’s a “small block” the slave is conveniently in the bellhousing as well. It is, however, a much larger and heavier transmission than the Ranger has. I’ve done those slaves more times than I’d like to admit to on a gravel driveway…

 

[Jtrussell1890]

Ehh, the Ranger trans aren’t terrible to do in primative conditions. I’ve actually manhandled the FM-146 before out and back in because I didn’t have a trans jack and a floor jack didn’t go high enough (my Choptop). Really it doesn’t have to come completely out, just down and back far enough to do. For that matter, if you folded back the flooring and pulled the pan on the top of the trans tunnel, you can easily get to bellhousing bolts and you could probably reach through there to swap slaves once you slid the trans back.

My F-150 has a ZF5 trans currently which because it’s a “small block” the slave is conveniently in the bellhousing as well. It is, however, a much larger and heavier transmission than the Ranger has. I’ve done those slaves more times than I’d like to admit to on a gravel driveway…

Well that takes some of the anxiety away lol. The last time I had to pull the trans, it was on my 96 F250 about 10 years ago. Did a clutch and slave/ master cylinder full replacement kit. However, I had a full service shop to use with concrete floors and air for my pneumatic tools lol. Way different scenario now. Gravel drive, in the elements and way down on the coast of Texas.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Well that takes some of the anxiety away lol. The last time I had to pull the trans, it was on my 96 F250 about 10 years ago. Did a clutch and slave/ master cylinder full replacement kit. However, I had a full service shop to use with concrete floors and air for my pneumatic tools lol. Way different scenario now. Gravel drive, in the elements and way down on the coast of Texas.

Shoot, I did the slave in my F-150 last year. Gravel driveway in western PA. Didn’t even drop the transfer case because I was in a hurry. Just threw some plywood down, shoved my trans jack and floor jack under and went to town. I have some video of it but I got way behind in posting stuff so it hasn’t dropped yet on my YouTube. I was in such a hurry and so lazy that I didn’t pull back the flooring and pull the plate on the trans hump.

 

[Jtrussell1890]

So the new slave/clutch release is currently on its way. I should have it Thursday, but I'm working all weekend. I'm still working on a simple solution to be able to use my floor jack with out getting too crazy (or having to buy an adapter plate). I think I'm going to for sure need a sheet of plywood so the jack will roll. Attempting to devise a solution to "brace" the trans so that during jostling and movement it doesn't decide to take a dive to the left lol. I'm being cheap AF about this lol. I just want my hot rod back.

 

[Jtrussell1890]

**UPDATE** So this past weekend, I pulled the trans, swapped out the slave cylinder and put everything back together. It was no easy feat and pretty much whipped my tail. I was only able to get the transmission out fat enough to do the part swap because of no support on the mount I made for my floor jack. Before I installed the slave cylinder, I did make sure it was full of fluid and did a bench bleed on it with the foot valve and slave cylinder. After everything was back together I did a gravity bleed just to make I didn't get air in the system when I disconnected and then reconnected the line after installation. Then just to be sure, I also did a vacuum bleed and found a few very tiny air bubbles come up. I checked the pedal and it was super weak and still short of travel. I then proceeded to try bleeding it for the next several hours, tried giving the pedal close to a million pumps and even tried holding it down and sliding my foot to the right so.it would spring back a ton of times and nothing had improved. I crawled underneath and had some one activate the pedal and I do see the release bearing moving, just not far enough to disengage the clutch and allow the transmission to shift into gear. Friday, Saturday and Sunday were all spent getting this small issue to be finished and I'm still no closer than when I started. 8 didn't even know what to do at this point other than bite the bullet and replace the clutch. I'm beyond frustrated, defeated and so close to just throwing in the towel and setting the whole thing on fire. Any guidance would be appreciated.

 

[2011Supercab]

I gravity bled at the slave bleeder screw and made sure it was all just fluid coming out. Made sure the reservoir was topped off

Did the reservoir ever go empty when doing this?

 

[Jtrussell1890]

Did the reservoir ever go empty when doing this?

Not even below half, ever.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Well that’s a kick in the nuts…

It sounds to me like there’s a problem somewhere in the clutch hydraulics. Air in the system, faulty fitting, something. I doubt it’s the clutch unless something broke on it and that’s what killed the old slave. Probably should have reminded you to give it a good eyeball while you were in there…

I went through the whole clutch hydraulics battle in my F-150 at one point. Slave cylinder froze on me mid stroke and when I pushed the clutch pedal harder I shattered the plastic end that was on the factory master cylinder. That was when it got the ZF5 and F-250 hydraulic system for the clutch. Then I had a nightmare bleeding it, same kind of problem you’re dealing with. I remember the clutch line turned out to be faulty and I decided to hate the new style retainer on the new slave cylinders where it has that dumb sort of hairpin clip, I don’t think those hold the line tight enough to be honest. I may or may not have swapped the new master cylinder once or twice two. It’s been awhile and I’ve tried to forget that until now, lol. I do know that I got so fed up with the line and slave cylinder attachment that with dad’s help, we bent a piece of stainless steel, notched it and bolted it to the bellhousing to hold that connection tight. I keep meaning to look into if there’s a way to go to AN/JIC fittings…

 

[Jtrussell1890]

Well that’s a kick in the nuts…

It sounds to me like there’s a problem somewhere in the clutch hydraulics. Air in the system, faulty fitting, something. I doubt it’s the clutch unless something broke on it and that’s what killed the old slave. Probably should have reminded you to give it a good eyeball while you were in there…

I went through the whole clutch hydraulics battle in my F-150 at one point. Slave cylinder froze on me mid stroke and when I pushed the clutch pedal harder I shattered the plastic end that was on the factory master cylinder. That was when it got the ZF5 and F-250 hydraulic system for the clutch. Then I had a nightmare bleeding it, same kind of problem you’re dealing with. I remember the clutch line turned out to be faulty and I decided to hate the new style retainer on the new slave cylinders where it has that dumb sort of hairpin clip, I don’t think those hold the line tight enough to be honest. I may or may not have swapped the new master cylinder once or twice two. It’s been awhile and I’ve tried to forget that until now, lol. I do know that I got so fed up with the line and slave cylinder attachment that with dad’s help, we bent a piece of stainless steel, notched it and bolted it to the bellhousing to hold that connection tight. I keep meaning to look into if there’s a way to go to AN/JIC fittings…

It's a real kick in the nuts for sure. When the issue started, the clutch pedal was hard AF and I was afraid it was going to burst either the master cylinder or the valve connected to the pedal. Now I'm just so tired of getting beat up by this. I really just want my hot rod back lol.

The new slave cylinder has a true push lock style connection with no retaining clip at all. After several rounds of vacuum bleeding I'm not getting any air bubbles at all, and it holds vacuum for at least 30 min so I trust that I don't have any leaks in the system. I'm frustrated, but I'll look into the few things you have mentioned and I'll keep every one posted

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

It's a real kick in the nuts for sure. When the issue started, the clutch pedal was hard AF and I was afraid it was going to burst either the master cylinder or the valve connected to the pedal. Now I'm just so tired of getting beat up by this. I really just want my hot rod back lol.

The new slave cylinder has a true push lock style connection with no retaining clip at all. After several rounds of vacuum bleeding I'm not getting any air bubbles at all, and it holds vacuum for at least 30 min so I trust that I don't have any leaks in the system. I'm frustrated, but I'll look into the few things you have mentioned and I'll keep every one posted

The worst part of everything is that “new” parts no longer mean “good” parts. Used to be if you bought a new part and continued to have problems, you could rule out the new part automatically but now you have to suspect it as well as everything else. That’s infuriating.

 

[Jtrussell1890]

The worst part of everything is that “new” parts no longer mean “good” parts. Used to be if you bought a new part and continued to have problems, you could rule out the new part automatically but now you have to suspect it as well as everything else. That’s infuriating.

***UPDATE***
So finally, least night at the 11th hour, I was able to resolve the issue. So to recap a bit. Middle of town, clutch pedal gives out, have to tow it home. Find out it's the hydraulics for the clutch. Order new master cylinder with foot valve, prefill and pre-bled. After installation, had little to no pressure and almost no travel in the pedal. Tons of hours of bleeding and advice later, opted to swap the slave in the transmission. Prefilled as well. Hours and days of bleeding and still the same issue. More advice and videos later, decide to bite the bullet and purchase a complete kit that was prefilled, and pre-bled. Installed new kit and this time inspected the clutch by removing it and clutch looks fairly new for it being at least a year and half old. Bearings and seals all check out as well. Springs solid. Reassemble everything. Bleed any air that may have been trapped during assembly. Pedal doesn't come all the way up like before and only have pressure the last 1/4 of the pedals travel. Same issue as before . This is where my abstract brain process comes in. If all things being equal, then I need to find a way to get the more travel and to be at rest at the same level as my brake pedal, not 2 in further back. Tried a few ideas like wad of paper and electrical tape (too soft), tried a piece of plastic (wouldn't sit right). Had to leave for an appointment, while in town stopped at Walmart for a few items and happened to be over by the air rifles. Looked down and saw steel BB's and a light bulb went off like the sun. Got what I needed and attempted to rush home. Once home, the exhaustion of the day hit and I almost feel asleep on the couch. Decided I needed to go sit side and pick up my mess before I go to bed so it's not sitting out while I'm at work the next day. Decided to go ahead and try the BB thing, and would you know it, everything just worked. The pedal rested in it's proper position, the valve made enough travel to engage the clutch and I was able to didn't into all 5 forward gears and reverse while the truck was running. I drive it to work today and I can tell I will have to find tune the BB's on the rod end, but I didn't have any problems shifting what so ever.

 

[SenorNoob]

So the push rod is too short?