Skyjacker 8" or 6"

[beaujt]

So i've got a 93 ranger ext cab 4.0L(as reference)

If i swapped out the rear-driveline with the solid driveline from the 98+ rangers would i be able to get away with the 8" lift without doin a double cardan shaft? What about the front? Would still be possible to have this truck still be a daily driver for me? Or should i do the 6" SJ lift and a body lift on top of it? Also, i was wondering if i would be able to put the James duff double shock set-up (the peice that replaces the upper coil mount and shock mount) with the skyjacker lift? If ya have anything about the steering that would be greatly appreciated too!

I've currently got a 4" rough country and i'm looking to pull it off and put the 8" SJ on. Just curious if anyone has any problems when they put a different brand of lift on or not?

Lots of questions all at once, i was just planning on doin a SAS but don't have the money to do it, and won't for a LONG time. Got too many things i've gotta get, on top of another set of wheels to drive while i would've had the truck ripped apart. Thanks for your help guys!

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

The driveshafts won't be a problem but with anything above 6" of suspension lift the steering starts getting very hard to correct, even with with an extreem drop pitman arm. I'd go with the 6" kit and a 3" body lift.

 

[beaujt]

The driveshafts won't be a problem but with anything above 6" of suspension lift the steering starts getting very hard to correct, even with with an extreem drop pitman arm. I'd go with the 6" kit and a 3" body lift.

ok, i was thinking the drivelines would've needed to be done. Or at least turning the axle but i figure i'm gonna start gathering parts cause i found a a couple explorer axles up here for 250-325 at a junkyard(95+ with disc brakes ) and the driveline for like 85 or something, but gotta check it out for dents... and still the gears. For the 6" do ya think it'd just be worth my time to go all out and buy the stage II kit from SJ? Is it really worth the extra money? I just don't know how much difference the extended radius arms have on the TTB system.

I know my big concern is since i already have the rough country lift on, the skyjacker lift install won't be jacked-up because of the the rough country initial install right? I just don't wanna start ripping things apart and find out that i can't put it on or something like that.

 

[4x4junkie]

You'll mostly be removing the Rough Country kit to make way for the Skyjacker stuff. It should all fit fine.

Extended radius arms make a world of difference on any suspension setup. If you want the best performance, I would certainly recommend them.

I also agree, stick with 6" lift tops and use the pt# FA600 'extreme' pitman arm. The bodylift is best for any height you want after that.

 

[beaujt]

You'll mostly be removing the Rough Country kit to make way for the Skyjacker stuff. It should all fit fine.

Extended radius arms make a world of difference on any suspension setup. If you want the best performance, I would certainly recommend them.

I also agree, stick with 6" lift tops and use the pt# FA600 'extreme' pitman arm. The bodylift is best for any height you want after that.

Ok, i was lookin at the components and it looked like that was the case. After ya both mentioned the steering being a big problem i went and "educated" myself about it as much as i could. Kinda started me to think about makin my own pitman arm... but i don't wanna jack up the steering even more. Thanks for the help guys! Now i've just gotta start gathering parts, and when i start building i'll post pics up

 

[crawlin91]

yeah Ive got a 6" lift and stock radius arms. you can definately tell the flex is limited by the lack of travel in the radius arms. When the weather finally warms up for good my whole front end will get some much needed improvement. Im fabbing a set of extended radius arms and brackets. If you or someone you know has some fab skills you mignt consider the same. But for the price of a stage II lift you could get into a SAS for a comparable price.

 

[beaujt]

yeah i've got some fab skills... at least i think so haha. Been welding for about 4-5 years now, not like a certified welder or anything. Thats what i was figuring i was gonna do is be mix/matching a bunch of things hahaha with prolly a 2" body lift, then most everything else will depend how the funds look after my first semester of school in the fall again. Freakin college sucks everything up! I was thinkin about puttin an xj dana 30 up front and picking the truck up about 8" after that. but i've been told that'd be a bad idea on many occasions. thats what i'd really like to do haha

 

[Evan]

I was thinkin about puttin an xj dana 30 up front and picking the truck up about 8" after that.

That Dana 30 will be weaker than the Dana 35 that's in there now...

EDIT: And don't worry, college is sucking up your $$$ right now but it'll pay for itself many times over in the future!!!

 

[beaujt]

yeah i've been told repeatedly that the dana 30 is weaker than the 35 right now... thats why i haven't done it hahaha. I don't want a pansy truck, i want a wheelin truck I'm just not a huge fan of the TTB system, but i've been learning more about it and just basically figured a couple things out i need to do to correct what i don't like about it. Nothing too hard, just a little more education needed about it. trying to not be ignorant about it

College, well i'm just glad i'm a little over halfway done! Got about 2 more years left for the 4-year and then prolly another 3 years for graduate school... but thats what im counting on, that it will pay for itself in the future

 

[RangerSVT]

something else for you to consider and fix, if you get a steering linkage from a D44 or superduty (solid bar from tie rod end to tie rod end), cut it down to ranger length, then attach linkage rod from pitman arm to passenger side solid linkage...that'll fix the inverted 'Y' problems when rangers are lifted.

 

[Evan]

I'm just not a huge fan of the TTB system, but i've been learning more about it and just basically figured a couple things out i need to do to correct what i don't like about it.

Yeah the TTB is pretty damn complex. But once you get everything figured out and make a few adjustments it's a pretty good axle.

 

[beaujt]

something else for you to consider and fix, if you get a steering linkage from a D44 or superduty (solid bar from tie rod end to tie rod end), cut it down to ranger length, then attach linkage rod from pitman arm to passenger side solid linkage...that'll fix the inverted 'Y' problems when rangers are lifted.

RangerSVT, is that what you did? if ya did could you post some pics i didn't even think of that. Just a question though, if ya don't cut the steering linkage to the right length its still gonna screw up the tires isn't? cause they won't wanna drive straigh down the road

 

[beaujt]

Yeah the TTB is pretty damn complex. But once you get everything figured out and make a few adjustments it's a pretty good axle.

haha yeah, i spend a couple hours reading up on it last night cause i was confused about it, but pics always help me out to figure it out

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

something else for you to consider and fix, if you get a steering linkage from a D44 or superduty (solid bar from tie rod end to tie rod end), cut it down to ranger length, then attach linkage rod from pitman arm to passenger side solid linkage...that'll fix the inverted 'Y' problems when rangers are lifted.

You can't have a solid tie rod between the knuckles on a TTB suspension. You have to use the inverted Y or go to a superrunner system or a full swingset steering setup.

 

[4x4junkie]

haha yeah, i spend a couple hours reading up on it last night cause i was confused about it, but pics always help me out to figure it out

I think most people make it out to be far more complex than it really is.

While the aspect of setting up the camber alignment is a bit more complex than on a straight axle, once you start understanding how it all works, it starts to come quite naturally.

The biggest thing is keeping your steering linkage in proper alignment with the axle.
Virtually every TTB lift kit out there (as provided out of the box) screws up the steering alignment to some degree, and is why it's so common to see problems relating to this on these suspensions.

This page should help shed some light on this issue if you haven't read it yet.
http://www.therangerstation.com/Magazine/winter2008/steering_tech.htm