should parking brake hold against torquing lugnuts?

[marylandBen]

So I have a 93 2wd with 9" rear drum brakes on which the parking brake has never worked so well in the few months i've owned it. it would keep the truck from rolling on flat ground if pushed it,or it would hold the unloaded truck on a moderate grade (less than 6%) but if it was parked on a slope i pushed it downhill, it could slip without too much effort. so i pulled the drums, while the shoes were not terribly worn (about 1/8" thickness left), everything was rusted, and the adjuster screws were seized untill i pulled them out and sprayed them with PB Blaster and worked on them with 2 pairs of pliers. so i got new shoes and a new hardware kit. installed everything according to Haynes manual. the new hardware kit did not come with a new springs to replace the one on one end of each parking brake strut, so i re-used the old, rusted ones. i adjusted the adjusters until it was just a little difficult to put the old drums back on (they have a lip, but haven't worn beyond specifications). i decided to try torquing the the lugnuts while the truck was still on stands to test the parking brake. the brake certainly holds better than before but will still allow the wheel to turn before my torque wrench clicks at 100ftlbs.

is this acceptable?

I've read of a cable adjuster up at the pedal end of the parking brake. how do i tighten that?

 

[marylandBen]

i've decided, after driving the truck a couple days and parking it in various places, that the parking brake is still not acceptable. of course, i always park it in gear(manual transmission), but i'd like to be able to leave it in neutral with the engine running on a hill, and not have it go anywhere.

also, after doing more searching and reading on here, i going to replace both rear cables.

 

[Will]

Yes, the brake should hold--absolutely.

 

[06RangerXLT]

did you sand your drums? i bet they are glazed. also make sure the cable isnt binding, and they are adjusted properly. you do this with the drum ON and lug nuts holding the crum in place. my ebrake pedal goes 3/4 way to the floor, and it locks the rear end so solid that when i put a 3 foot bar in the lugs sideways, i can stand on the end of the bar. Im 185 lbs. id replace your drums, and then do all this.

 

[Heavyfire14]

if i ever forget my parking brake is on and try to drive my truck wont budge, its VERY solid.

 

[Joe Olson]

you must get drums re surfaced! then adjust shoes to drum diameter. install drums, push e brake no more than3-5 clikes should be heard. readjust shoes as ness. e brake kits are avalible. you haveto specify return kit or e-brake kit.

 

[cr_the_machinist]

If you depress you brake pedal (hydraulic system), then quickly release and reapply the brake pedal, the pedal hight should be close to the same on the second pump compared to the first. If it feels higher, you need to adjust the drum brakes.

Rock the truck back and forth from 1st gear to reverse, moderately applying the brakes before changing directions. Repeat that about 3~5 times. This will help snug up the shoes to the drum, if the self adjusters are working correctly. If you don't notice a difference, I would replace the star wheels and adjuster cables as well. Those cables can stretch and slip at the crimps, making them useless. Make sure the star wheel teeth are nice and defined and not rounded as well.

I do that procedure listed above whenever I feel like my pedal is traveling too far. Brings the pedal up nicely every time and back into correct adjustment.