should I buy one of these Rangers (Option 2 & 3)

[Shran]

I wouldn't question the options much. I just bought an '88 XLT that has crank windows, no AC and manual shift tcase. It's only one step up from an XL with it's cloth seats.

 

[dvdswan]

I agree with @Shran. An XLT could be just adding a cloth seat and carpet. There's always a power package, towing package, etc. Money makers are what manufacturers and dealers make. Not many people make special orders compared to dealers just ordering vehicles. selection, selection, selection.

 

[YT-1300]

I would also advise you to keep in mind that just because someone flips vehicles, does not mean that their particular vehicles are worth a premium. Book value and condition still apply and I would happily walk away if the seller can't wrap their head around that. I also believe that an "overheated market" does not really apply to vehicles like this, no bank will loan you more than book value on an old truck. It will almost certainly end up being a cash sale, so book value is what you need to follow.

I flip old trucks on occasion and I never ask a premium for them. I am not special. Although, I do go out of my way to fix everything within reason and the buyer always gets a stack of receipts and detailed information about what I did to make them feel like they are getting a good deal.

I agree, but I wonder if cars are like houses: it's all about where they are. Here in Southern California, we don't see a lot of wet weather, so vehicles don't have major rust issues. They last a long time, too, so certain people buy them for work trucks (think the ubiquitous gardeners) from the original owner, who bought it as a commuter or lifestyle vehicle. So, most of the Rangers I see for sale around here appear to be work trucks that the previous owner is done with. They are often beat up, with dents/holes on the bed rails and back of the cab, dings and scratches on the body, torn seats and stained carpet. I need the find the original owner before the truck gets bought by a gardener! lol.
Anything nice in this area is in the $6,000 and up range. I guess I need to just make an offer and see what happens.

 

[Saddle Tramp]

Good luck.

 

[55trucker]

So what one can deduce from this is he wants the max that the KBB suggests, he's a dealer (flips vehicles so the price will be inflated), if the vehicle was being sold by (for example yourself) what would YOU be asking for it?

How low would you be willing to let it go for?

Being a Cali truck I can see $5000

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Nice truck,

front bumper has been goinked, for an XLT it doesn't the XLT mirrors, it is also minus cruise, it also doesn't have the front tinted shaded windshield, as well I see no tilt steering, odd for an XLT.
The only item of note I see is the optional cd/tape player.

Ehh, my 2000 2wd 5 speed is an extended cab XLT and had the same mirrors, no tilt steering, no cruise, crank windows, manual locks but CD player, A/C and carpet. I know mine wasn’t messed with beyond what I changed since I bought it new.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

What would I look for when I go see it in person? I'm assuming I look under the car for telltale signs of new parts, bent components, etc.? Anything in particular? I'm also not shy about asking why the bumper looks crooked.

I was thinking the same about offering less than $5,000 and going from there. I'm using Kelly Bluebook values, but I'm not sure how they account for an overheated used car market.

Ok, so here’s how I look over stuff (this is kinda my job). Get inside, start it, make sure everything works like it should, radio, heat, A/C (if equipped), seats adjust, windows work, etc. Check for an owners manual and such. Pop the hood when you get out. Open the hood, check for turned bolts, damage to the radiator support and inner fenders. Core/radiator supports like to rot out down by the frame rails and being that they are welded in, it’s usually pretty obvious if it’s been replaced. Turned bolts (the factory paint is chewed up) doesn’t always mean it’s been replaced or repaired but will tell you if you need a closer look. Feel around the edges of body panels for a tape line. Look down the body lines and see if it’s straight. Look for flat paint, excessive dirt in the paint, runs and “fish eyes” as more indicators of something being painted. Check the rear leaf spring hangers shackles and the frame around there for bad rust. Check the frame up by the front of the bed on both sides where it curves down towards the front of the truck, frames like to rot there. On the passenger side, check the crossmember right behind the cab and the next one back for rot, usually by the frame.

Carfax is worth less than the paper it’s written on. I’ve seen totaled vehicles that have “clean Carfax, one owner” and such. Not sure how flippers do that, but they do. I do know that Carfax only reports what is out there so if you wreck your car and don’t go through insurance to fix it, Carfax doesn’t have a report. Rust holes in the frame are technically classed as frame damage and although often repairable, kill the value. Repaired frames still class as frame damage, but it’s acceptable if it’s done right. FYI, since the inner fenders and core support are welded together, any alterations or damage there also class as… frame damage. Also usually repairable and done right is considered acceptable.

 

[gaz]

@Y-T1300 ,
I chose a vehicle based on my needs from the vehicle verses cost or appearance; winter driveability, fuel economy or towing power are my considerations.

• While I am not a huge fan of the 3.0l, if I had one I would immediately switch it to natural gas. We had a fleet of them on nat-gas at work, tons of power and easy 28-30 mpg highway!!
• if I were ever going to tow anything, I would select the 4.0l ohv
• if environment or weather are ever a factor, the 4x4.

 

[YT-1300]

So what one can deduce from this is he wants the max that the KBB suggests, he's a dealer (flips vehicles so the price will be inflated), if the vehicle was being sold by (for example yourself) what would YOU be asking for it?

How low would you be willing to let it go for?

Being a Cali truck I can see $5000

That is a very good question!

Whenever I sell anything, I do a little research and look at current prices on CL, Ebay, FBMP, and what it costs new. Then, depending on how fast I want to sell it, I price it less than everyone else. I usually use 1/2 of retail for my prices, with the exception of a vehicle; for the price of those I use Kelly Blue Book. I try to look at it from a buyer's point of view and then add a bit for negotiating room. But, I'm not doing this for a living.

For this truck, $5000-$6000 is not unreasonable in this market. High KBB on it is $6000 in excellent condition. He dropped the price $500 without me asking, so there's that.

 

[YT-1300]

Ok, so here’s how I look over stuff (this is kinda my job). Get inside, start it, make sure everything works like it should, radio, heat, A/C (if equipped), seats adjust, windows work, etc. Check for an owners manual and such. Pop the hood when you get out. Open the hood, check for turned bolts, damage to the radiator support and inner fenders. Core/radiator supports like to rot out down by the frame rails and being that they are welded in, it’s usually pretty obvious if it’s been replaced. Turned bolts (the factory paint is chewed up) doesn’t always mean it’s been replaced or repaired but will tell you if you need a closer look. Feel around the edges of body panels for a tape line. Look down the body lines and see if it’s straight. Look for flat paint, excessive dirt in the paint, runs and “fish eyes” as more indicators of something being painted. Check the rear leaf spring hangers shackles and the frame around there for bad rust. Check the frame up by the front of the bed on both sides where it curves down towards the front of the truck, frames like to rot there. On the passenger side, check the crossmember right behind the cab and the next one back for rot, usually by the frame.

Carfax is worth less than the paper it’s written on. I’ve seen totaled vehicles that have “clean Carfax, one owner” and such. Not sure how flippers do that, but they do. I do know that Carfax only reports what is out there so if you wreck your car and don’t go through insurance to fix it, Carfax doesn’t have a report. Rust holes in the frame are technically classed as frame damage and although often repairable, kill the value. Repaired frames still class as frame damage, but it’s acceptable if it’s done right. FYI, since the inner fenders and core support are welded together, any alterations or damage there also class as… frame damage. Also usually repairable and done right is considered acceptable.

Thanks! This will be added to the checklist I made from the buying guide on this site. I take Carfax with a grain of salt, but I do appreciate a seller being willing to share it. Repairs done right are acceptable, but I'm taking a chance and trusting that they were done right. These trucks I'm looking at are all 15-20 years old, so I don't expect perfection, but they do need to be safe and any repairs need to be done competently.

 

[YT-1300]

@Y-T1300 ,
I chose a vehicle based on my needs from the vehicle verses cost or appearance; winter driveability, fuel economy or towing power are my considerations.

• While I am not a huge fan of the 3.0l, if I had one I would immediately switch it to natural gas. We had a fleet of them on nat-gas at work, tons of power and easy 28-30 mpg highway!!
• if I were ever going to tow anything, I would select the 4.0l ohv
• if environment or weather are ever a factor, the 4x4.

This is primarily for my 16-year-old son. He needs to get himself to school, practice and games. He's buying the gas, so a smaller engine could be fine. No 4x4 needed; we live in suburban LA! We do need AC and heat. I'd like something with a decent body/paint so the neighbors don't bitch and moan about an ugly truck to the HOA.

 

[superj]

if it test drives good and the mechanic says its good, that truck will be great for him. my youngest son got a little extended cab s10 with the 2.8 v6 for his first truck because we got it for 3 or 400 bucks and dropped a junkyard engine in it. jarrod loved it. it looked good, got decent gas mileage, and he could carry his friends and junk in the back of the cab. an mid-sized extended cab truck is about the perfect high school vehicle

 

[YT-1300]

if it test drives good and the mechanic says its good, that truck will be great for him. my youngest son got a little extended cab s10 with the 2.8 v6 for his first truck because we got it for 3 or 400 bucks and dropped a junkyard engine in it. jarrod loved it. it looked good, got decent gas mileage, and he could carry his friends and junk in the back of the cab. an mid-sized extended cab truck is about the perfect high school vehicle

That is good to hear!

The only issue I have with taking it to a mechanic is that my mechanic is about 30 miles away from where most of these trucks are. I'm not sure the sellers would be willing to let me take the car for a few hours. Any tips on how to convince them to let me take the truck?

 

[superj]

tell him you want to do an extended test drive and that your mechanic is x far away and so you expect to have the truck this long. tell him you are interested but want to have your mechanic go over it first. if he is not trying to hide anything, he will be ok with you taking it for an extended test drive

 

[YT-1300]

Seller says he sold the green one for $6500. Is there any way for me to confirm what he's telling me? He has a bias in telling me he sold it for full price, since he's a flipper. I'll keep looking and posting!