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Short Circuit/Starte Problem


Ok, just got done being eaten by mosquitoes while troubleshooting some more.

I checked all the grounds in the engine compartment that I could find. I don't know what a cowl is nor could I locate where those grounds might be located. All the wires on the grounds looked good and I used a tester and it lit up on everyone.

Checked all the power wires they were good. Checked the wires from the clutch switch on the output side of it and didn't see anything that would be causing the short circuit.

I also thought it may have something to do with the anti-theft system so in an effort to disconnect that I pulled the fuel pump/anti-theft fuse in the main fuse box in the engine compartment. When trying to turn the car over the #24 fuse still blew on the in cab fuse panel.

To rule out the starter as some have suggested I disconnected it completely and turned the car over and blew the same #24 fuse again. I'm kind of out of things to try here.

I think next I'm replacing the ignition switch and the key lock cylinder as those are the only two related things that havn't been replaced. I am almost positive that the problem is on the non-engine side of the firewall as I had also tried to turn it over with the starter relay disconnected from power and was still able to blow the #24 fuse.

Please someone, anyone give me some more things to try. Does anyone have any wiring diagrams for my truck that are more detailed than the one in the Haynes manual? Is there a relay related to the starter or anti-theft system that is not listed in the manual that I am missing?
 
The cowl is that thing with the vents in it. Right in front of the windshield. Your wipers attach to the drive arms through it.......
You have access to it from under the hood via two access panels on either side of the truck. Three screws I think and they are out.
 
Ok the more you know I guess. I know what a Cowl is now. I will check those grounds and I guess I will do the ignition switch and key lock cylinder if no one else has any ideas.
 
OK I give up, I replaced the ignition switch and the key lock cylinder last night and neither of those helped with the problem. Still using a wrench to cross the posts on the starter relay.

Please if anyone has any other ideas let me know, I'm about to rig a switch in my cab so I don't have to use a wrench anymore. Could it be an issue with the factory alarm system on my car? Does anyone have wiring diagrams of the alarm system?
 
OK, after going thru my Haynes manual, I found that fuse #24 controls the starter relay and he anti-theft system. Since you've already changed out everything else, it looks lke it has to be a problem (short) in the anti-theft system. From what I see, the antitheft system is little more than a relay in the engine compartment. I'd try replacing it. The relay may be internally shorting, blowing the fuse and preventing power to get to the solenoid switch on the fender. This would explain why you can jump the solenoid and it starts fine. Hope this helps, sorry I didn't read this sooner.
 
Thanks for the input, I can't remember everything I have tried, but I think the relay you are referring to is an anti-theft and somehow related to the fuel pump relay inside the fuse box in the engine.

I think I tried pulling that relay out completely and when I did I was still able to get the fuse to blow.
 
OK, I'm looking at my Haynes manual as we speak, and it shows for 1995 (and 96, like my B2300) fuse 24 supplies power to the anti-theft system and the starter relay.

Looking at the wiring diagram, (section 12 page 35 if you're following along with me) it shows that with the anti-theft feature you have another relay in the circuit, the Starter Interrupt Relay. From there it goes to the clutch pedal position switch, then to the starter relay, then to the starter solenoid, then to the starter.

Another OK, I just went out to my truck and pulled the Owners Manual out of the glove box, (keep in mind mine is a 1996 Mazda B2300 w/o anti-theft system), but ours should be similar. The OM says that fuse 24 powers the Clutch Pedal Position switch and the Starter Interrupt relay. Interesting. That kind of brings me back to a problem with the CPP switch. I know you already changed it, but it sure sounds lke you have a short in that circuit somewhere. I'd crawl back under there one more time and look around for a wire that has been worn through, fits loose in the connector, anything like that. Ten I would pull the switch away from it's mount, and check again. I've got a hunch you have a loose connection there, one that just barely makes contact but supplies a higher resistance than it should be, and that is what is popping your fuse. check it out and let me know.
 
Ok I checked the clutch switch again and did not find anything out of the ordinary. No loose wires or connections.

Now I see you mentioned a starter relay of some sort that I havn't looked for yet where would that be on my vehicle?
 
Should be in the fuse/relay box in the engine compartment. This is truely baffling.
 
I will look for that relay Mirage thanks for the info.

I know I looked in that fuse/relay box in the engine compartment before, but I don't recall anything being labeled as dealing with the starter. I did however swap relays as long as the part numbers matched so I am thinking that is not the case.

I will look in my owners manual and the Haynes manual and see if I can determine which relay your talking about.
 
I looked for a starter relay in the fuse box and I don't see anything by that label.
 
Well I finally gave in and rigged a push button to my starter interrupt relay. Please if you have any thoughts on what is actually causing my fuse to blow post here and I will try it out.

Anyways I'm just happy for the moment that I no longer have to pop my hood to start my truck anymore.
 
Just a Idea, The hot wire off that fuse only goes 2 or 3 directions right?

Why don't you get a inline fuse and mount it temporary on each leg of the power leaving the the original mounted fuse... See what side/ direction is blowing the fuse and chase the problem that way...
You may have to go to a slightly smaller fuse in the temp inline fuse to find the problem...

--Friiy
 
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