Short Circuit/Starte Problem

[jrt341]

I have a 95 Ford Ranger 4 cylinder 2.3l that is will not start.

First thing I did was replace my battery and splice new connectors on to my battery wires as the battery post were cracked and had eaten away most of the connectors. Did not fix the problem.

Next I determined that every time I go to start my truck fuse #24 on the fuse panel in the passenger compartment blows. I first tried replacing the clutch/starter switch which did not work, and then replaced the starter/relay or solanoid on the fender which did not resolve the problem either.

I can get the truck to start by jumping across the solanoid posts.
I have also checked the continuity of the ignition switch per my Hayne's manual and saw no issue there either.

I can find no evidence of corrosion, melting, burning, or bare wires that would be causing my #24 fuse to blow every time I try to start the truck.

Please help I'm stumped.

 

[Duane867]

Internal short in the starter. New starter.

 

[jrt341]

This would cause the #24 fuse to blow every time? Is there a way to be certain that it is an internal short in the starter? Like I said, I can start the car using a screwdriver to jump across the two posts on the solenoid, so the starter is starting right?

 

[Duane867]

When you jump the poles at the relay on the fender well and start the truck does it still blow the fuse ? Or only when started at the key ?
I would make sure the back of the solenoid is firmly grounded metal to metal on the fender 1st. Then try again. You will see that it is mounted to a painted surface.
The screws running through it make the ground. I would sand down contact points for the bolts and nuts. If that fails check the following......

Check all major power wires and all major grounds.

There are around 10 major grounding points to check under the hood.
LH front of engine compartment below battery
LH side of upper radiator support
RH side of fire wall
Top center of left hand fender apron
Lower LH front of engine compartment on frame rail
RH side of engine compartment on upper fender apron
Lower LH front of engine compartment
Behind LH cowl panel
Behind RH cowl panel
Relay/solenoid to fender ground.


Check power wires to
battery
starter relay
alternator
engine compartment fuse/relay box
instrument cluster
in cab fuse panel
ignition switch.

If you come up empty handed try a new starter.

 

[jrt341]

No the fuse does not blow when i jump across the relay, only when I use the key and start like normal.

Thank you for the other info, I will check those and report back.

 

[Duane867]

Have you or any one else wired up a stereo system to it recently ?
Big amp or any thing ? Security system ? Power accessories ?

 

[jrt341]

Have you or any one else wired up a stereo system to it recently ?
Big amp or any thing ? Security system ? Power accessories ?

Stereo hasn't been changed in years. The wife drove the car to work this weekend and made it home Sunday evening. I go to get in the car Monday morning and no start. The truck does have a factory amp behind the passenger seat for the audio( I think thats what it is), an alarm system, and all power accessories(window, mirrors, etc.)

 

[Duane867]

Check the security system wiring to the ignition.
Some times connections get loose and or wires break causing positive grounds. Since it only happens when the key is turned its more then likely in the ignition wire some where.

 

[jrt341]

Check the security system wiring to the ignition.
Some times connections get loose and or wires break causing positive grounds. Since it only happens when the key is turned its more then likely in the ignition wire some where.

I looked over all the wiring around the ignition and even pulled the key lock cylinder. Didn't see anything that could be the culprit. Also when I just turn the key without depressing the clutch the fuse does not blow, it's only when I actually start the car up normally by depressing the clutch that the fuse blows.

 

[red85]

Take a look at your clutch interlock switch circuit. You likely have a power wire grounding out when the clutch is pushed in.

 

[Duane867]

When you replaced the clutch interlock switch did you see any burnt wires or possible nasties lurking ?
If you checked all grounds and positive connections, fuse boxes, and obvious wiring then like Red says.. thats about the only thing it could be if it only happens when the clutch pedal is depressed.

 

[jrt341]

Take a look at your clutch interlock switch circuit. You likely have a power wire grounding out when the clutch is pushed in.

I did not see anything wrong when I replaced the clutch/starter switch as far as wiring or anything wrong with the harness that clipped onto it. Is the clutch interlock switch circuit not the same as the piece I already replaced? If it isn't what would this look like, or would my Haynes manual have anything to say about it?

Thanks for all the responses everyone.

 

[Duane867]

Its in your Haynes manual...

 

[red85]

Look at the wiring, not the switch. It will likely be on the output side of the switch. Check any wiring that passes through any panel. You may have a wire that's pinched and grounding out.

 

[jrt341]

Was out of town for the rest of the week and will hopefully be trying the things suggested here this week weather permitting. I will report back my findings.