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Seperator plate worn... starter keeps moving/walking away from flywheel.


I did a google search, and are coming up with posts like the one below. It would be worth a try. Just to repeat, they did not make a 10 tooth starter that will fit the 2.8. You will have to take your 9 tooth starter, buy the 10 tooth bendix, and install that on your 9 tooth starter.


Hey I found a thing on a network my shop is part of. Apparently this is pretty common issue with the 2.8's.

Here is the post - "The problem is often the bell housing that warps, causing the starter to be pulled away from the ring gear. The easy fix is to install a larger 10 tooth drive in place of the OE 9 tootth drive. It is .100 larger and will engage .050 deeper into the flywheel, usually enough to "repair" the problem. Or you can go to a Carquest store (who handle our product) and order a 72-3170-10, which will already have the 10 tooth drive installed just to remedy the problem."

Another post says "The starter you need is a 3188 which has 9 tooth. Talk to a local rebuilder or auto-electric shop. Tell them make you the same starter with a 10 tooth drive of a 3196 Ford starter that is used on 85-90 Ford Escort with a 1.9L engine! Give it a try, it may solve your problem."

If you are handy, you can install the 10 tooth drive on your old starter and give it a try. I found NAPA part# BK 6561137. Carquest# 25-1983. And maybe O'Reilly #BWD SD353. I say maybe on the oreilly part because it is listed as 11 tooth, but the application is correct.

The quote above came from here https://www.broncocorral.com/forums/index.php?threads/starter-flywheel-problems-again.152086/
 
I did a google search, and are coming up with posts like the one below. It would be worth a try. Just to repeat, they did not make a 10 tooth starter that will fit the 2.8. You will have to take your 9 tooth starter, buy the 10 tooth bendix, and install that on your 9 tooth starter.


Hey I found a thing on a network my shop is part of. Apparently this is pretty common issue with the 2.8's.

Here is the post - "The problem is often the bell housing that warps, causing the starter to be pulled away from the ring gear. The easy fix is to install a larger 10 tooth drive in place of the OE 9 tootth drive. It is .100 larger and will engage .050 deeper into the flywheel, usually enough to "repair" the problem. Or you can go to a Carquest store (who handle our product) and order a 72-3170-10, which will already have the 10 tooth drive installed just to remedy the problem."

Another post says "The starter you need is a 3188 which has 9 tooth. Talk to a local rebuilder or auto-electric shop. Tell them make you the same starter with a 10 tooth drive of a 3196 Ford starter that is used on 85-90 Ford Escort with a 1.9L engine! Give it a try, it may solve your problem."

If you are handy, you can install the 10 tooth drive on your old starter and give it a try. I found NAPA part# BK 6561137. Carquest# 25-1983. And maybe O'Reilly #BWD SD353. I say maybe on the oreilly part because it is listed as 11 tooth, but the application is correct.

The quote above came from here https://www.broncocorral.com/forums/index.php?threads/starter-flywheel-problems-again.152086/

Thanks, Frank! I ordered the new 10 tooth from napa and I should be getting it on the 4th. I found a similar post regarding putting in a 10 tooth. I also found some weird ass crap about using a 4.0 auto (Cant use a manual model) starter on the 2.8.... After looking at it. I have zero idea on how that is supposed to even work. That is the mounting of the 4.0 starter.
 
Someone correct me if I am wrong, but I think since the 4.0 had more power output, they needed to use a larger clutch. To use a larger clutch they needed to make a larger flywheel. So the starter had to move out more since the flywheel was a larger diameter. And I would suspect they followed suit and just made the setup the same for the automatic also?
 
The 4.0 manual does have a larger clutch (I've recently done one of each flavor). From adsm08 in a 2014 post:
"The 2.9 manual, auto and 4.0 auto plates are all the same. The 4.0 manual plate is the odd man out because those first three all have the 8 2/3" flywheel or flex plate. The 4.0 manual uses a 10" flywheel, which is why that plate is different. The starter has to be farther out."
https://www.therangerstation.com/forums/index.php?threads/spacer-plate.150750/#post-1450146

I've been through this, replacing the plate on my 2.9L. They are hard to find, but not impossible.

I'm pretty sure that the 2.8 and 2.9 plates will interchange, and are possibly the same part number. The plate used with the early C3 autos had a small removeable window, for access to the TC nuts, that the manual plates don't have. Otherwise, functionally, I believe they're the same.

I've never had a 4.0 auto, so I don't know about its separator plate.
 
Could someone post a guide on how to replace the Bendix on the starter? Ive never done it and I can't seem to find a guide on how to do it.

EDIT: I did learn out to do it. I have the spare dead one that kept getting stuck onto the ring gear but I'm stuck on where the spring goes. It popped out and I have no idea on where to put it back. When I was putting it back together It kinda exploded on me. As if I didn't know where stuff went. I have an idea on where the spring goes but I know knew 100% where it goes. I'm only practicing so I know what to do whenever I get my new drive in the mail.

I got it 100%
 
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UPDATE: I replaced the drive gear on the starter. It was a pain to get the C clip off but I did it. The starter sounds and works perfectly. Super happy about it.

PSA: Anyone and everyone. If you just got an 83-85 (2.8L V6) replace your drive gear before its too late. Since I know some people might do what I did with replacing (Removing and put back on) when it moves away but that can cause more harm. I learned that the hard way.

Buy a NEW starter, buy the drive gear (A post above Frank) has part numbers, and get it where you want. I got mine from napa since other places either didn't have it or said 11 teeth. I wanted a 10 tooth. I can't say an 11 tooth will work for you and I'm not going to tell you to try it.

You can get the C Clip off with a wrench and then put it back on with a pair of kitchen scissors. Like these. Also, be careful when taking off the top. It might explode on you and you'll need to put it back together and it's not fun. It took me an hour and a half to figure out how to do it. I luckily had a dead starter to practice on. I might film a video on doing it for those who might need it.
 

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