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Save me from Toyota!


Remeber these are all just opinions based on your experiences. He didnt ask for the best(while its usually a given) he did ask for affordable, something that will let him go a lil farther off road. He ask for affordable 4" lift, I didnt hear anything about him asking for good ride quality. How does a lifted toyota drive on 4" of lift? How does anything drive on 4 " of lift?
I would like to keep this Ranger and lift it about 4", put some 33"s on it, and a locker in the rear

Seems simple, crank the t-bars and add a 2" body lift, It allows for minimal cranking, minimal body lift. Use the add a leafs, And be done for cheap.

It may not be the best ridin, best flexin, best lookin, option around, But it gets him what he asked for, Does it not? I dont see where he wants to "wheel it" I do see where he said beat the shyt outta it.

I wanted something that I could beat the crap out of and not feel bad about it.
Can you be more specific about the type of beating you wanna give this truck? Trails? Rocks? Mudd? Snow?
 
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if you want it to perform, u gotta spend some money. just save up.
The Superlift IS the cheapest lift. I am told the RCD coil-over kit has been discontinued.
Basically the Superlift lowers your whole front suspension from the frame including the front crossmember, so all you really gain in clearance for that is what the bigger tires will give you.
There is also Dixon Bros. but that costs more than the RCD did, which is double the cost of the Superlift. It's a late-model, it is what it is.
So.....
If you want to stay low-budget get a 3" bodylift, t-bars cranked just to level 1.5" or so, 33x12.50's on 15x8 wheels with 3.75" BS, a Powertrax locker in the rear, and if you promise to go easy on the skinny pedal, a Powertrax in the front. Also I'd recommend a winch.
The above will get you to 99% of the places you'd want to go. That is basically the setup on the most bad-ass Sport Trac on the planet, which other than a sprung-over conversion on the rear, does not have a suspension lift.

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Seriously...$1000-1500 for a SAS? How?

The junkyard is your friend. I've found countless D44's for around $300-$500 with suspension included... so factor in gear cost ~$600, a locker ~$350, and miscellaneous parts that you'll have to get... You'll come close to the price of an IFS lift... but IMO, it's much more worth it to get rid of IFS.

The only reason I haven't done my sas yet is a lack of a job :annoyed:
 
Thanks for the lively discussion. I recently bought a '89 Toyota pickup out of frustration with the lack of aftermarket stuff for the Ranger, but the Ranger has air bags, abs, and the xcab doors going for it, which is why I'd like to use it instead of building up the Toyota. Expense isn't the main issue, but it's annoying to see so many good (and still cheaper) options available for the Toyotas when it seems like there should be tons of aftermarket stuff out there for a truck as common as the Ranger.

What I want out the truck:
1. Road trip comfort (wife)
2. Tackle most trails (exploring)
3. Modest rock crawling
4. Dry camping in the boondocks (that's what the Flip-Pac shell is for)

The locker will have to be selectable because I need to be able to drive on snowy/icy roads without crapping my pants.

Question: Is there a 1997 Ranger with the supercab doors, abs and the TTB? Maybe that would be the ticket.

If sas could be done for a couple grand total on this truck I might be willing to forego the abs in favor of it.

My recent purchase:
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Seriously...$1000-1500 for a SAS? How?


its been done..... for less even ....... do a search...... I bet I could find a D30 from a jeep with 4.10 or 4.56 for less than $300. there are plenty of sas threads on this site for gen 4 and later trucks and most were done cheap...... and yes SLA rangers are turds, the SLA just can not compete with a straight axle or TTB for the same amount of money.

for that $1500 figure you mentioned and 10 min I found a running 1978 big bronco with a 351, 4spd, 4.10's and 33" meats........... that would have most of the parts you need for your SAS.
 
there is nothing you can do to lift the front end of your ranger that wont make you dig in your pockets for money. torsion bar twist and thats as cheap as it comes you get about 2"

chevy drop shackles, add-a-leaf or explorer leafs will lift the back.
3" body lift will help get you bigger tires under your truck.
cheapest ive foundhttp://www.carparts.com/Ford-Ranger-Lift-Kits/200742537-600022336.car
 
Question: Is there a 1997 Ranger with the supercab doors, abs and the TTB? Maybe that would be the ticket.

Nope. The supercab rear doors didn't appear until 1998 models.
 
It's all garbage without a locker.

If you want to keep it cheap and effective, throw on a 3" BL, 33x10.50s and a rear locker, otherwise SAS it or get a TTB ranger, lifting SLA IFS is polishing a turd IMO.

I had no idea if it was 2wd or 4X4?:icon_confused:
 
The locker will have to be selectable because I need to be able to drive on snowy/icy roads without crapping my pants.
There is no selectable locker available for the front but you can get them for the rear, assuming it is an 8.8" axle.
A rear locker, quality tires like BFG M/T's, a winch, and it will be fine.
Hey, Hummers get air under their tires too.

Expense isn't the main issue, but it's annoying to see so many good (and still cheaper) options available for the Toyotas when it seems like there should be tons of aftermarket stuff out there for a truck as common as the Ranger.
Simple fact is that the design of the late-model Ranger requires that suspension mods will be pricey and out of the reach of most owners, so you don't see very much.
 
if your gonna play your gonna pay no if and or buts no one said wheeling is a cheap sport cause it ain't by anymeans and i goin to have to agree with c note
 
1. get a torch and burn all that ifs crap out.
2. SAS
worry about lockers etc. later
 
replacing the ifs shafts with treated shafts and servicable 930 cvs (used on buggies with 1000+ hp)makes it stronger than a ttb.

that turd must have came out of Jesus' butt.
I'm saying its a turd in regards to the fact there's still a big clusterfawk hanging down and very little articulation.
The locker will have to be selectable because I need to be able to drive on snowy/icy roads without crapping my pants.
I've found a locked rear is far more predictable than open in snow/ice.
 
I've found a locked rear is far more predictable than open in snow/ice.
I was guessing he meant a selectable front locker, but I'm not a mind reader.
A rear locker is fine in winter once you learn how to drive it but a front locker, on-road, in snow, or ice, is not a good thing*. It's not like you can unlock one hub on a late-model. The main reason I've had 4x4 RBV's myself for the last ten years is not so much for off-roading but for getting around in the winter.


* For those unfamiliar, on a snow-covered road with a front locker it is extremely likely that when you come to a turn you will merrily plow straight ahead and off the road and into the ditch, the utility pole, bridge abutment, guardrail, or whatever. Yes it is possible, yes I know people do it, yes I know it is very tricky. Not the sort of thing you want to turn your wife or dad loose in if they don't know what they're doing.
 
replacing the ifs shafts with treated shafts and servicable 930 cvs (used on buggies with 1000+ hp)makes it stronger than a ttb.

that turd must have came out of Jesus' butt.

Not necessarily...
The SLA diff is lo-pinion, whereas the TTB is hi-pinion. Makes a huge difference in a front axle when the gears are used on the "correct" side of the gear teeth.

Baja racers use their 4WD quite sparingly (I've heard of some guys that deliberately use a D28 instead of a D35 to save a couple pounds and not have it break all the time).
 
Thanks for the discussion, guys. Regrettably, I wound up selling the Ranger in favor of the Toyota. I really like the Ranger, though, so I may be back someday, but right now I just want something to build up that has more options available to it.

I'm sure I'll see you all again sometime.
 

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