SAS steering

[MAranger]

I've got a full width 44 from a 78 bronco to go under my ranger. I've been looking into all of the SAS build threads i can find. Seems like most guys are running a T linkage, and i think that is the way I want to go, for simplicity.

I do not have a stock bronco tierod or draglink, which is fine because i'd rather have something beefier, as i'd like to go hydro assist a little ways down the road.

I'm thinking i want to stay with TRE's, though i'm not 100% on that. It'd save some effort and cash to use stock ford TRE's. I'd have to ream for GM 1 Ton TRE's, and drill for heims. Are the ford TRE's weak? Is 1 ton stuff worth the effort? Does anybody know the thread size and TPIof bronco/f150 TRE's? Planning on using 1.5" 0.25 wall DOM, and appropriate weld in bungs. This seems to be the norm in custom/aftermarket steering.

Now, as far as building a T linkage to minimize bump steer, it seems like crossover (or the ford setup) would be less desirable, as the tie rod would be a good length longer than the track bar. Would it be better to weld tabs onto the tierod and run a heim at that location, allowing me to match the length of the tie rod and track bar? Or go with the ford T setup?

I want to push my front axle as far forward as is practical without moving the steering box. Is it acceptable to have the drag link runs perpendicular to the frame, or even angled towards the front of the truck? Stock drag link runs rearwards. I'd probably run into issues with drag link to trackbar interference.

Sorry for the long-winded post and s@#$ load of questions, but i've searched my little heart out, so I'm actually not sorry at all

 

[gwaii]

sounds like you are on the right track.i'd go with the gm i ton tre.it's just a little bigger than the ford one,and theres a good aftermarket support to it.

t style linkage is good,as long as you have a good connection on the tie rod.

moving the steering box is pretty easy,i moved it 7'' forward on my ranger.i think if you leave it in the stock location and move the axle any amount forward,there will be problems.

crossover steering should not be a problem,just make the trac bar mounts so the trac bar is the same length as the drag link.my frame mount for the trac bar is 6'' outside the left frame rail.

 

[MAranger]

Thanks for chiming in Gwaii, oh master of bastardized creations.

I'm doing some more research, gonna go measure the TRE tapers on my 44, to get an idea how much bigger the 1 tons are. and take a closer look at moving the box.

 

[MAranger]

Just took a measurement of the bronco 44's TRE tapers. Major diameter is 0.773", which will accept the GM "1 Ton" parts. I guess most companies that market stuff as GM 1 ton use a 3/4 ton TRE.

Referred to this link for TRE size;
http://www.jeepfan.com/tech/tierod-id.php

So I am relieved to find this out, I'll be ordering my TREs and tube adapters soon. I think I am going to go with the ford/chevy style T setup where the passenger drag link end is recieved by the passenger tie rod end.

I'll be able to set toe in/out without removing my drag link this way, and as Gwaii said, i'll build my track bar and mount to match my drag link length. Track bar will be heimed.

Since my drag link mounts to the front of my tie rod, I will not be able to run the axle to far forward or the planes of the tierod and drag link will interfere, and they'd contact when I'm all stuffed.

Gwaii, I do not want to move my steering box. Your frame and box may be different since it is gen 1 or I'm just a pussy; the box mounts in a pocket in the frame rail, and it's mount isn't perpendicular to the frame rail. And I'd have to extend the steering shaft.

So much for the negative approach angle I dream about at night. I'll still wind up with the axle a couple inches forward of stock position. I won't be running anything larger than a 36/37 in the near future. Most likely a 35.

 

[gwaii]

to move the box,you just need to cut the inner plate from the frame(it's the same as mine on yours)and there is a stiffenning insert between the inner and outer frame.redrill the holes on the flat frame section ahead of the stock position-i also plated the outside with a 1/4'' thick steel doubler plate-and put the bolts through with the spacer and bolt the inner plate in place.now you can weld up the inner plate to the frame rail again and fill the space between it and the crossmember.now the box will bolt up like stock,and if you do your fab work well enough it will look like it came from the factory that way.

my approach angle is 97 degrees.i've actually dented the hood by climbing backward angled overhanging cliff faces and bumping into rocks sticking down from the top without the grill hitting.the diff will easilly articulate 45 degrees or more either way with nothing binding.

if you really want that approach angle,the steering box relocate can be done in a few hours.oh,and there is more than enough length in the telescoping steering shaft to reach the new box location.i didn't modify mine at all.

 

[wahlstrom1]

Measuring my setup out using a flat pitman arm from an F150 I was able to move my axle ahead 3" without the drag link interfering with the tie-rod. It will depend on several things in your design but you should be able to go an inch or two atleast before moving the box.

 

[MAranger]

Gwaii, It seems pretty doable after your explanation and a second look. My lower radiator house might pose an issue, but I can deal with that fairly easily. I also have a crumple zone, kinda want to plate over that mess. Any chance you could snap a pic of your setup for me?

It would be a smart move on my part for two reasons other than approach angle;

1, further foward = less lift clears engine xmember and rear fenders better

2, more wheelbase = better for complying to Massachusetts' stupid lift law.

I have to adhere to the what the book says, as the truck will be undergoing an inspection by a state trooper. Don't ask.


Wahlstrom, do you have a build thread?

Pushing it as far foward as the box allows would save me from fabbing a driveshaft. Definately the easy way out relatively.

 

[gwaii]

Any chance you could snap a pic of your setup for me?

will do tomorrow if conditions allow,was pretty ugly today-major storm rolled through,huge winds and rain and power outages.it just came back on,who knows for how long.

ah,life on haida gwaii.

gotta love it.

 

[gwaii]

turns out i moved it 4 1/2'' forward.the axle c/l is 7'' forward of stock,so my angles are the same as if you moved the axle 2 1/2'' and kept the box in the stock location.

it's still under construction,so things are a little rough still,but here's looking at the inside.of course,on yours you'll have an engine and rad and all that other stuff in there.

the steering shaft,as you can see,is not an issue.

 

[MAranger]

Thanks for grabbing those pics Gwaii. I wonder if i'd have to replace the ps lines, napa will make custom ones so thats not too big of a hurtle.

And you have that 97* with 44's correct? Mine will probably be under 90, but that is fine by me, this will be street driven, and it will be easier to make a front bumper without tires protuding ahead of the rig. Although it'd be sweet to climb vertical walls!

 

[gwaii]

to keep it street legal,i had to put a bumper on it and it screwed the approach angle...but i put it on recievers so i could remove it easilly.

and ya,that angle was with 44s.

hard to say if the lines would stretch out....of course mine are really stretched out.almost 10 feet.

 

[wahlstrom1]

I don't have a pic of the axle pushed forward (currently under construction) but here's a pic of how its been for the last 3 years. At 3" ahead, I'm still a 1/2" from parallel.

 

[MAranger]

Wahlstrom, is that a chevy TRE at your pitman arm? did you have to ream the arm?

Your chevy stuff fit the stock TRE tapers at the knuckle correctly? By my measurement of the major i.d. on the knuckle they should.

 

[brendank]

Wahlstrom, is that a chevy TRE at your pitman arm? did you have to ream the arm?

Your chevy stuff fit the stock TRE tapers at the knuckle correctly? By my measurement of the major i.d. on the knuckle they should.

If it's a real chev 1 ton TRE, you will have to ream the arm.

 

[MAranger]

Brendank, I'm gonna go with the 1/2 and 3/4 ton size, which are ofeten marketed as 1 ton (.774" vs .791" maj id). I'm trying to get around reaming if possible.