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sas coil spring questions


im going to buy a a dana 44 front end and rebuild it with ford 9in 60o steering knuckles from spidertrax. so besides the knuckles yea im rebuilding the whole thing. thats why i need coils,coil overs, air shocks because leaf springs get in the way.

Im going to take a stab at this post as it doesn't seem to use correct grammar. Your going to buy a Dana 44 front axle and then take the outer C's off and put on the Spidertrax Ultimate Knuckles? Is that correct? You do realize you would be better off just buying a Dana 60 as you would spend 1000 on the knuckle kit and another 650 on unit bearings for it. Thats 1650 with out the custom shafts you would need for the outers lets call it 2400 including stub shafts (spidertrax stubs are 400 a piece but then you would need custom inner shafts to work with a dana 44 carrier so it would be more in the 3000 dollar range to use those knuckles on your D44), you can buy and build a mild Dana 60 for that.
 
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naw i have done plenty of sas conversions on old 2wd fords and 4wd ifs Chevy's, just never done a ranger with the rack and pinion system. i probably will go 9" front and rear and it would make the knuckles allot easier (around $3500.00) . moneys not a problem when i do this i don't want some half assed pos like most of the vehicles on this site. i have a good 1350 so why is a 1354 better when they both drive chain and have a 2.48 low ratio, is the case beefier on the 1354?
 
Where do you put the 40ft ramps to get that ATV out of the truck???:icon_rofl:

They're 6' ramps.....they require a ditch, or hill to be backed into.....or a set of balls, as it's a steep launch into a bed thats almost 4' off the ground.

about how much did it cost you?

also whats the steering like, sharp or turn like a aircraft carrier?

Overall, I'd say around $3500 all said and done....

It drives very similiar to a reg cab long bed leaf sprung superduty (99-04). I'm used to it now, but it's got a wider turning radius then stock for sure. When I go fullwidth with the radius arms in the stock EB location I should get all my turning radius back, and more! It's only my wide-ass tires rubbing the radius arms that hold me back...

-andrew
 
naw i have done plenty of sas conversions on old 2wd fords and 4wd ifs Chevy's, just never done a ranger with the rack and pinion system. i probably will go 9" front and rear and it would make the knuckles allot easier (around $3500.00) . moneys not a problem when i do this i don't want some half assed pos like most of the vehicles on this site. i have a good 1350 so why is a 1354 better when they both drive chain and have a 2.48 low ratio, is the case beefier on the 1354?
1354 has a fixed front output yoke and no internal u-joint like the 1350, 93-up version have a 6 gear planetary as a opposed to 4, other than that the strength isn't that much of a difference.
 
naw i have done plenty of sas conversions on old 2wd fords and 4wd ifs Chevy's, just never done a ranger with the rack and pinion system. i probably will go 9" front and rear and it would make the knuckles allot easier (around $3500.00) . moneys not a problem when i do this i don't want some half assed pos like most of the vehicles on this site. i have a good 1350 so why is a 1354 better when they both drive chain and have a 2.48 low ratio, is the case beefier on the 1354?

Why waste that money? If you want a beefy front axle run go to Crossedupoffroad.com buy the 609 housing with the SOLID D60 C's and then buy complete SOLID outers, Youll save your self a ton of money that you can use for something else and you'll have an axle that is beefy as hell for much less. And what does the Rack and pinion have to do with anything? Your going to have to junk that anyways.
 
Why waste that money? If you want a beefy front axle run go to Crossedupoffroad.com buy the 609 housing with the SOLID D60 C's and then buy complete SOLID outers, Youll save your self a ton of money that you can use for something else and you'll have an axle that is beefy as hell for much less. And what does the Rack and pinion have to do with anything? Your going to have to junk that anyways.

thanks for the info. justs saying this is the first vehicle i will do a sas on that doesnt already have a gear box. just picked up a 1998 ford exploder 8.8 for 50.00 bucks and its in damn good shape. also am going to ditch the front axle and go with a d44 hp a guy i know is going to give me. just need to finish my hot rod restore so i can start this one. hope to start in a year.
 
Give moser or another axle manufacture a call and they can have some alloy shafts for that explorer axle made with the same bolt pattern as the front axle (5x5.5 Im assuming) so you dont have to run spacers, or you can run the superior Super 88 kit and that will convert the rear pattern too.

super 88 kit
http://superioraxle.com/axles.html#super88
 
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the d44 is an 8 lug so i hope they can make an 8 lug axle. thanks for the info
 
the d44 is an 8 lug so i hope they can make an 8 lug axle. thanks for the info

I think your gonna be out of luck, as I dont think they make a flange big enough on a semifloat axle to fit the 8 lug pattern. You can always convert the D44 to 5 lug.
 
should i just sell the 8.8 and get a d60 for the rear and add an exciter ring at the x-fer case. to keep the 8 lug. i want the big brakes i dont want small brakes.
 
could do the explorer 8.8 and get adapters....I know of someone that happens to make very good ones....and for a good price...

-andrew
 
how much would he charge? i know i could machine them but thats alot of time. ok i have another problem right now. i aligned my body to my frame. and moved my axle to the drivers side as far as possible. heres my problem my back right tire sticks out like an inch more then the left tire. the rims have the same back spacing to. help please.
 
should i just sell the 8.8 and get a d60 for the rear and add an exciter ring at the x-fer case. to keep the 8 lug. i want the big brakes i dont want small brakes.

You could run a Sterling 10.25 as that has a VSS ring built in. And then you wouldnt have to mess with trying to add one. If you were going to add VSS to an axle I wouldnt use a D60 rear. I would step up to a D70 as it has the larger ring gear and larger shafts and has about the same clearance as a D60 rear.

Sterling 10.25
clearance.jpg


If you go with a 10.25 sterling then you want to find a 93-98 Full Float rear axle. As they have a larger pinion with more splines and are stronger. They have 1.5" 35 spline shafts which is a good thing.
 
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yea dude i have a 3 point slow thats way to much rotating weight and truck weight. i do want to get 15mpg not 10. i'm going to see about changing out my inst. panel with one that has a mechanical speedometer and run a cable to the transfer case, then get ride of the bullshit abs if i can. you don't need that shit in so cal anyway.
 
your not gonna get 15 mpg with how u want it setup its a fact of life.....with that 3.0 anyways.....

and carefull what u say about people's trucks on here, money is a concern of some people on here, i know my truck is a total budget build, ive got mine built solid for less then ur talkin to get your front steering done, and that includes the 5.0 and 4spd swap.....
 

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