?s about wiring my system

[ForOffRoadDriving]

thanks, i knew i drew the door speaker wiring wrong as soon as i got to work and pulled up the page i was reading last night. so youre saying get a 150A resettable breaker like this instead of running the inline MAXI fuse? http://www.burnstines.com/100-amp-manual-reset-circuit-breaker.ht if so i can get these from the HD truck supplier i deal with for cheap, and i like the idea of not having to change fuses, but isnt 150A a little over kill? it seems like 80A would be more sensible, but i dont know how to calculate the load of 3 amps each fused at 20A.

 

[4x4fun]

A couple of changes...your highs and mids are wired in series, not parallel, in your diagram. Also, you will need a larger fuse at the battery, but I suggest goin with a manual resetting circuit breaker, at least a 150 amp. The 4 gauge will be enough, and I highly suggest using a 4 way combination distribution/fuse block, as each amp needs to be fused independantly. Other than that you have it correct
SVT

150 is way to high. three amps all with single 20 amp fuses would need 60-80 amp fuses. single use or breaker style is up to you. a good two way distribution block is good to have pick up a 1-4 block. nickle coated is best gold plated is good too. fuses after the block good idea. but its an ok think to skip for now, if money is tighting.

what ever you do for the power side do for the ground side. (thats why distribution blocks come in two) or ground everything independently

4 gauge in my two c is a lil short. id upgrade but you can later but id test it out. after 20 min check it. then let it run for 40, after and hour trip. make sure nothing is going wrong.

 

[ForOffRoadDriving]

ok, so if i use 2ga from the battery, and fuse it within 18" at 80A, then continue running the 2ga until i reach the back wall of the cab, then split it into 3 lengths of 8ga and run them to each amp, then run a separate ground from each amp to the chassis or make a common grounding stud for them to share then i should be fine, right? i took some pictures on lunch of my amps all painted to match, im thinking this should turn out looking really clean and well thought out. this is how they will be mounted on the back wall, below the cargo cover so when im away from the truck i can pull it out and all my stuff will be hidden

im getting excited!

 

[tylork92]

well run the 2 ga wire to a distribution block. then from that block split off to your smaller run to the amps.

 

[RangerSVT]

The reason why I said 150 amp breaker for a main is while yes, it may be overkill in this current configuration, I am thinking down the road when you decide to upgrade, then you will have to upgrade your main power as well. While these circuit breakers are not a couple bucks a piece, you will want to buy one just once. I run a 200 amp breaker in my setup. Your main power protection circuit is designed to protect the vehicle in the event of a firewall short or short to ground, your distribution block should be a combination of splitter and fuses so your individual amps are protected. Your link is not working, but here is the style I am talking about http://www.stinger-aamp.com/productDetails.aspx?ProductId=19&CategoryID=2 You don't have to use stinger, but one like this will work. 4 gauge will work fine, while each amp may be rated at 20 amperes each your amps for highs and mids will not be pulling a full 20 amperes, they might pull half the rated load, and if the amp running subs is pulling full load, your whole setup is only pulling 40 amperes...6 gauge cable is capable of sustaining 60 amperes continuous load, so 4 gauge will do just fine. Even if you run two sub amps, your still only going to pull 50 amperes total.
SVT

 

[4x4fun]

The reason why I said 150 amp breaker for a main is while yes, it may be overkill in this current configuration, I am thinking down the road when you decide to upgrade, then you will have to upgrade your main power as well. While these circuit breakers are not a couple bucks a piece, you will want to buy one just once. I run a 200 amp breaker in my setup. Your main power protection circuit is designed to protect the vehicle in the event of a firewall short or short to ground, your distribution block should be a combination of splitter and fuses so your individual amps are protected. Your link is not working, but here is the style I am talking about http://www.stinger-aamp.com/productDetails.aspx?ProductId=19&CategoryID=2 You don't have to use stinger, but one like this will work. 4 gauge will work fine, while each amp may be rated at 20 amperes each your amps for highs and mids will not be pulling a full 20 amperes, they might pull half the rated load, and if the amp running subs is pulling full load, your whole setup is only pulling 40 amperes...6 gauge cable is capable of sustaining 60 amperes continuous load, so 4 gauge will do just fine. Even if you run two sub amps, your still only going to pull 50 amperes total.
SVT

this is why i use a very nice spade terminal fuse system and i have all different size fuses. so no matter what my system looks like i have the right size fuse. if your puttting in a fuse its for safety. so why would you have the fuse being so much larger, that's incorrect, and really unsafe. i have a sub panel in my house that doesnt even have a 200amp breaker. why you need in your truck.

also the fuses on the amps are just over what the normal amp needs are for the so if theres any issues it just pops and you dont mess up the amp. going by what you said your amp can take a 50% load shock. before it needs to blow the fuse.......im not buying that. i need some tech data.

also 6 g cable has a max of 37amps for power transmissions.

4 g has maxes out at 60 which is why i have been saying for some time your right on the edge. you should prolly upgrade.

2 g = 94

0 g =150

00= 190

fuses are for saftey. 5-10 amps over whats needed.

 

[RangerSVT]

The reason why I have a 200 amp breaker in my setup is cause at one time I had close to that much load going through mine...US Amps are widely known for putting out ungodly amounts of power, and that is all I run. My system use to consist of 8 JL 10's, 4 sets of MB Quart 6.5 2 ways, 2 USA-400's, and a US VL-200. Running 1/0 wire from my bank of 4 batteries and a 15 farad The Cap. I have won quite a few trophies from my days of competing in competition autosound...
SVT

 

[ForOffRoadDriving]

thanks for the input guys, i guess ill be running 2 ga cable with an 80A circuit breaker at the battery, then ill use a solder- type butt splice to join the 2ga to the 3 lengths of 8ga (i dont really want to buy another distribution block because theyre mostly for looks right? i can accomplish the same thing by soldering the joint and it can then stay hidden behind the carpet on the rear wall) and then fuse each leg of 8 ga with a 30A maxi fuse, like the one pictured here (i can get 2 more of them at walmart for about $30, then mount them all within 6" of the split)

 

[RangerSVT]

Those combo fuse blocks shouldn't be that much, but yeah, you can do it that way, its just never done that way by professional installers. I would think by the time you bought 3 individual fuse blocks the combo block would be about the same. Just remember to make sure you have a good clean ground when you ground your amps to avoid engine noise.
SVT

 

[ForOffRoadDriving]

well its looking like i might not get it all done this weekend due to a smaller than expected pay check, so it looks like ill have time to gather more parts while i spend my weekend wiring up the other accesories ive been putting off, like the air horn and the 2 hella comet 500s on my front bumper. so far my list of audio related things to buy is 1-15' rca cable, 1- 4' rca cable, 1- 2' rca cable, 9' of red 2 ga cable (already have, just need to pay for it), resettable 80A breaker (will have tomorrow, need to pay for), triple fused dist. block or solderable butt splice, assortment of ring terminals (i have quite a few but im sure ill be short on a couple of sizes when i start making my power and ground cables). there may be something else im forgetting.....oh yeah, liquid nails to glue the ply wood to the back wall so i have something to screw my amps and distribution block to (im thinking 1/2" will be thick enough since i want to put the carpet back over top of it?).

 

[4x4fun]

1/2 inch should be more then enuff.

nice job on the amps btw. very clean

 

[ForOffRoadDriving]

thanks 4x4, coming from you i know thats a genuine compliment, hopefully youll be impressed by the install too. do you have any part #s on a 3 way fused distribution block or do i only need a 3 way nonfused block? im confused again and all i keep finding is 4ga into 8ga blocks... HELP! I keep finding 1-4ga input and 4 or 3 8ga out puts, which would make me believe i could get away with feeding it 4 ga, but the ratings that 4x4 fun posted dont match?

 

[RangerSVT]

Get the one 4 gauge in, 4 8 gauge out fused block, the 4th fuse may not be needed now, but might in a future upgrade...They make an adapter to allow up to 1/0 gauge wire to be installed in a gauge hole, if you run 2 gauge wire, you might have to get this adapter, but try and put the wire in the block first, as different manufactures of blocks have different machining sizes...you stated you have to pick up one 15' RCA, do you already have 2, or have you changed your setup?? The amps do look good, did you paint them to match the paint on your truck, your interior, of just make all the amps match each other??
SVT

 

[4x4fun]

thanks 4x4, coming from you i know thats a genuine compliment, hopefully youll be impressed by the install too. do you have any part #s on a 3 way fused distribution block or do i only need a 3 way nonfused block? im confused again and all i keep finding is 4ga into 8ga blocks... HELP! I keep finding 1-4ga input and 4 or 3 8ga out puts, which would make me believe i could get away with feeding it 4 ga, but the ratings that 4x4 fun posted dont match?

sorry i didnt explain that better i said 1-4 i meant 1 0/2 gauge in and have 3 or4 8/4 gauge out.

something like this

http://www.tti-plus.com/Bluewave-Audio-Platinum-AGU-3-Fuse-Distribution-Bl-p/bw-dbs43.htm

 

[4x4fun]

http://www.tti-plus.com/AUDIOPIPE-Gold-Distribution-Block-p/bw-gdbg1.htm

i have two of these that click together so its all "one" block one for power one for ground. but have the 0/2 gauge ones. is 1-4 dis block more clear now lol