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Rusty coolant


gregorys1989

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 4, 2011
Messages
69
Vehicle Year
1992
Transmission
Automatic
I noticed this a week or so ago, and im starting to think it could be the source of some of my problems in past posts. Although, my mechanic advised me not to do the flush because he said the rust is likely just to come back because i have a coolant leak. In other words i guess my question is what would be some symptoms of rusty coolant, my temp gauge barely moves when full warmed up, and the fan to the radiator seems to kick on more than i would assume it should. how would this affect the trucks overall running condition. BTW its a 1992 3.0 2wd xlt
 
I've got the same thing going on in my truck. What's your current mileage?
 
85xxx, did u flush your coolant? what are some other kinks in your car your experiencing
 
is it overheating?

have you physically seen a leak?

the rust could be from the radiator, i'd open that up and see what was going on in there.
it may have a clogg in it and that's what's causing the rust, i'd give it good lookover...that could be where it was leaking if there's a leak. obviously, it isnt too clogged, otherwise your truck would be overheating.
 
Rust comes from the block. The radiator has no steel to rust.

A Super Flush treatment should clear out all the corrosion products, then fill it with the proper coolant mixture. While you are at it, you should replace the thermostat. I fail to make any connection between rusty, neglected coolant and a coolant leak (which you should investigate and fix).

The fan clutch kicks the fan on to high speed when the radiator isn't providing enough cooling. If you have no confidence that the one-wire coolant temp sender is giving an accurate reading on your gage, replace the sender. Dirt cheap part.

If you think the fan clutch is over-cooling the coolant (personally, I think your thermostat is stuck open from cruddy coolant), simply remove the fan and drive 45 mph, watching the gage. During that test, if you think it is getting TOO hot, run the heater full hot, High fan to cool it down. I doubt you'll need to do that unless you stop and idle after a speed run. If that test run (no fan) lets the gage temp rise to a normal and steady reading at steady speed, your fan clutch is bad and thermostat is good.

You need a new mechanic if he is discouraging a coolant flush and refill (with thermostat replacement recommended as a normal practice - $8 part).

Leaks don't cause rust, worn out corrosion inhibitors in the old coolant does.
 
the leak part didnt make sence to me either. so probably a coolant flush, the radiator cleaner, a thermostat, and a radiator cap. should do the trick u think?
 
its also a brand new radiator. so i was told atleast, and it looks brand new aswell
 
I just checked through all my fluids. its not overheating and THERE IS NO COOLANT LEAK. Trans fluid leak yes, and a small amount of oil leaking.
 
Yeah, my temperature gauge has been acting up so it's hard for me to get an accurate idea of what I'm looking at there. I know the overflow hose that attaches to the top of the tank is leaking, I have to clean up few drops every time I run it. Just had the coolant flushed and refilled, but I doubt those boneheads replaced the thermostat. I think I'll do that, as well as the temperature sender, and go from there.
 
could what looks like rust possibly be block sealer?
 
could what looks like rust possibly be block sealer?
Either way it will create problems. I cured the rust problem with my 2.8 by pulling the water pump and t-stat and flushing the block radiator and heater core good with high pressure water. There was alot of crap in the block. I put new gaskets water pump and thermostat along with heater hoses. If your leaking out the overflow take and blast the hose to the over flow tank with air replace the hose and make sure there is no restriction in the pickup tube. To see if the guage is good turn the key on and short the single wire sender wire to ground the guage should read hot. If it reads hot then it is either the sender or the t-stat if the heater works good then more than likely sender.
 
could what looks like rust possibly be block sealer?
Either way it will create problems. I cured the rust problem with my 2.8 by pulling the water pump and t-stat and flushing the block radiator and heater core good with high pressure water. There was alot of crap in the block. I put new gaskets water pump and thermostat along with heater hoses. If your leaking out the overflow take and blast the hose to the over flow tank with air replace the hose and make sure there is no restriction in the pickup tube. To see if the guage is good turn the key on and short the single wire sender wire to ground the guage should read hot. If it reads hot then it is either the sender or the t-stat if the heater works good then more than likely sender.
 
If you have a lot of rust, be prepare to have a freeze plug blow on you. If you're lucky enough like my previous ranger it will be behind the bell housing and ruin your entire day.
 
thanks for all the input, im going to flush this myself next week.
 

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