Rusty bolts

[Shotokan1509]

I've tried that before and only succeeded in beating the hub nuts to a pulp because after beating myself to death with a deadblow rubber mallet, I took a real hammer to the nuts...and still didn't get the spindle free without beating a cold chisel and a couple of craftsman screwdrivers in between the spindle an knuckle.

A spindle removal tool is a good investment, IMHO, the tool itself is $20 from Summit Racing, not sure what it costs elsewhere, but it threads onto the spindles of D-28's, d-35's and d-44's among others. You're supposed to use a slidehammer on it, but I've had good success with a hammer. Smack it, give it a twist to tighten it back up an smack it in the other direction. Once it starts to loosen, shove a screwdriver in between the spindle an the knuckle an smack towards the screwdriver. Usually three to four hits and I have a spindle off. No mess, no fuss.

I really hope not to make ujoint replacement a common item, so I don't think I'll buy one, but I do see that Autozone rents 'em. I'll have to see if my local has one, thanks.. did not know there was such a tool for the spindle removal which IS going to be quite difficult on my truck.

 

[2manyfords]

A good piece of hard wood and a 5lb hammer works great on spindle removal.

 

[Shotokan1509]

Anybody happen to know the size of the spindle remover needed for a D35?

Also, anybody had a new lower coil spring stud welded on?

 

[Shotokan1509]

question numero 2 million. The front abs sensor on a 95... is that part of the spindle or a piece that comes off before yanking the spindle? I have enough rust that the sensor/spindle/knuckle look like they're all one piece and I'm really not looking to bust and have to buy a new abs sensor.


Edit. I removed one bolt from the back of the sensor near the electrical connection. There is also another "thing" next to it.. is that a bolt or a pin? the head looks round, and there is an opening from the outboard side of the spindle.

 

[Simple_serf]

I am familiar with salt rust. My best friend is a torch and a BFH. esp wehn working on front end parts that have been in the salt for around 10 years. Don't be afraid to break stuff, either. I am NOT telling you to be stupid with the hammer, but all of my friends give parts these little taps that won't do crap because they are afarid they might break something.

 

[Shotokan1509]

I am familiar with salt rust. My best friend is a torch and a BFH. esp wehn working on front end parts that have been in the salt for around 10 years. Don't be afraid to break stuff, either. I am NOT telling you to be stupid with the hammer, but all of my friends give parts these little taps that won't do crap because they are afarid they might break something.

I don't mind breaking stuff thats easily replaced, like a regular bolt. I do not like breaking things such as welded studs, or expensive parts that got in the way of rust attacking. My current stuck is getting the abs sensor off, so I can have at the spindle and then pull the axle shafts out. I think I even have a tiny bit of movement in the spindle already (got the nuts off easier than I thought, spindle looked welded to knuckle with rust, got frustrated with the abs sensor so gave the slide hammer a few quick pulls on the spindle and now I can see the two different parts). Really wish I had a torch. My question is why did Ford think it was a good idea to put a 6mm bolt head on the backside of the lowest point in the front suspension on a 4x4

 

[MAKG]

My question is why did Ford think it was a good idea to put a 6mm bolt head on the backside of the lowest point in the front suspension on a 4x4

Because the factory doesn't give a damn about service, except for warranty claims. That bolt isn't going to rust to hell during the warranty period.

 

[Shotokan1509]

I'm calling it quits There are just too many rusty fasteners to deal with in my home garage, on a daily driven vehicle. The #1 boltout just spun, and the #0 is way too small, and this is just the beginning of the rusty parts that need to go.

 

[AllanD]

If you actually use a slide hammer you'll never do it any other way.

As for '90-97 lower shock mounts? 75% chance you'll break atleast one of them

It's why my '87 truck CONVERTED to 4x4 with 1996 beams has '88 Radius arms on it
I think the stud type lower shock mount is one of the stupidest things ford ever did.

AD

 

[Shotokan1509]

If you actually use a slide hammer you'll never do it any other way.

As for '90-97 lower shock mounts? 75% chance you'll break atleast one of them

It's why my '87 truck CONVERTED to 4x4 with 1996 beams has '88 Radius arms on it
I think the stud type lower shock mount is one of the stupidest things ford ever did.

AD

Slide hammer looked like it would have worked well, but I could not get the abs sensor out of the way, and the other side looked worse. I also realized I needed atleast the lower balljoint on the drivers side and the nut on that was almost completely gone. So unfortunately I have to admit defeat against rust and send it to a garage with a torch/full tools to to drill that abs sensor bolt out.

The lower shock mount I could have snapped, ground off and put a bolt through but the local shop said they'd do front shocks for like $60.. I'm a cheap person but the time I would spend on it is worth more than what the shop would charge.

Yup I'm a failure, but after the shop uses new fasteners I can do these jobs next time they need to be done. I think most of the parts in there are original on a 13 year old, NewEngland truck.

Actual work = relatively simple
Dealing with rust = almost impossible without a full tool lineup

I can't have my truck off the road for days while I fight with rust. I threw everything back together and so far only ruined that abs sensor bolt... if I had kept going and got to the point that I ruined something that would not allow me to put back together to bring to a shop would have been even worse considering I don't think we could get a tow truck in position to pull my truck out of my garage bay.

 

[Midyearguru]

For rusty fasteners I use a SUPER duty penetrating oil named KROIL. The stuff works like magic. Also, I substitute propane from a standard 5 gal cylinder for acetylene. it's a lot cheaper and will generate enough heat. You can use the Acetylene regulator, .........just swap out the tip for one designed for propane.