Rustproofing: Fluid film, Wool Wax or Surface Shield?

[JJMaine]

What do you guys use and prefer? After reading up on this a bunch it sounds like I cant go wrong with using any of these and I am prepared to re-apply every fall. $50 a year is worth it to save me major headaches down the road. I got lucky and found a 13 year old truck in Maine that has no rust on the body and Id like to keep it that way!

Can anyone share their rustproofing technique on the Ranger? Obviously the entire underside is getting a coat but I’m guessing I should spray it any place I can fit the wand?

Also contemplating whether or not to invest in the spray gun or just use the spray cans with the wand adapter. I only have a small compressor so I might have to get a better one if I go with the spray gun. Any advice is welcome!

 

[sgtsandman]

Unless you can get an air compressor that will handle a paint gun, I would go with the rattle cans. The spray gun stuff is thicker and will hold up better but you need a spray gun in order to apply it. Nothing else has enough pressure behind it to spray the stuff.

I like Fluid Film because I can get it easily but there is nothing wrong with any of them.

Plus, the rattle can fluid film is handy to have when changing rotors and drums and installing wheels. It creates a barrier that keeps metal to metal surfaces from rust bonding together.

 

[JJMaine]

Thanks! Im thinking rattle cans at least for this year Ill see how they work. My rule has also been, any time I remove a part or nut/bolt it gets cleaned before I put it back on and I also give it a quick blast of fluid film.

I guess the fluid film might be the better choice since I’m using spray cans because it is thinner than wool wax and should apply quicker/easier? As long as it holds up through the winter months is all I care about. I will get the black stuff so it looks good and should be easier to see where it has washed off.

Do you spray up in the doors and everything?

 

[Blmpkn]

Thanks! Im thinking rattle cans at least for this year Ill see how they work. My rule has also been, any time I remove a part or nut/bolt it gets cleaned before I put it back on and I also give it a quick blast of fluid film.

I guess the fluid film might be the better choice since I’m using spray cans because it is thinner than wool wax and should apply quicker/easier? As long as it holds up through the winter months is all I care about. I will get the black stuff so it looks good and should be easier to see where it has washed off.

Do you spray up in the doors and everything?

My advice is to pay someone to do it, at least the initial application.

 

[AHenry014]

My advice is to pay someone to do it, at least the initial application.

This! I plan to get my DD done before the salt goes down this year. I used rattle cans to Fluid Film my '87 bricknose last year and man is that stuff nasty. It applies well, but some of it ends up on you and the ground. If you do it with rattle cans extensively, wear some type of eye protection (a facesheild is best), and some type of mask (covid mask worked for me). I killed a large rectangle of grass from the overspray. It WILL make a mess of the area you are spraying. There are a couple spots in town that do it for ~$300 for larger trucks like F150's, so its worth shopping around if you can swing the money.

 

[flyin-lowe]

I am a big fan of Fluid Film. I ordered a new Jeep Wrangler in November of 2017. I drove it straight from the dealership and applied 2 spray cans of fluid film. Since then I apply two cans every year around November. The driveshafts on these jeeps known to start rusting before they leave the lot. Look under any Jeep out there (on the lot or on the road) and the drive shaft will be covered in surface rust. Mine, after 7 years in Indiana still has not rusted. There is one little slim stripe that appeared after year one because I had a brain fart and didn't spin the driveshaft was I was applying it so the very top did not get covered. I have access to a lift and 1 1/2 cans will cover the entire bottom of my 4 door jeep then I use what's left to hit all the access points to get inside the frame.

 

[DeeRanger]

Here in P.A. I recently had my 2001 Ranger done done by a shop that uses film fluid. I drove it over from So-Cal and I'm hoping to keep it rust free. Cost was $220. There was quite a bit of dripping where I had it parked for the next few days mainly from the wheel well areas. Unfortunately here in P.A. they use calcium chloride to pretreat the roads and it is highly corrosive to most metals, and can lead to premature failure of components. I've contacted everyone from Penndot to the federal department of transportation about the dangers of its usage. All went to deaf ears, not a reply from anyone ? We can't protect our roads and bridges from it but we can our own vehicles. ( sorry for the rant and good luck with the undercoating ).

 

[pjtoledo]

fluid filmed here.
the spray on the lower inner door seam eventually crept up 2-3 inches on the outside of the doors, so it does indeed creep into seams & crevasses.
the long tube is needed for bed supports and up into the rear fenders.

I keep a couple cans handy, anything I touch gets a quickie.

use personal protection for extended exposure.

 

[JJMaine]

My advice is to pay someone to do it, at least the initial application.

That was the previous owners job. He had ONE job and he failed miserably.

I did consider paying to have the body done and doing underneath myself. There is a good business near me that is well known for doing good work and they charge $300 to do the rockers, wheel wells, inside the doors etc. (I guess the whole body) but they also detail your interior after to get any overspray from when they do the doors. Edit: After reading DeeRangers post and the cost I wonder if the $300 includes the entire underneath of my truck? I’ll have to call and ask. $300 for EVERYTHING would be a no brainer for me.

What other benefits are there to having a shop do the initial spray? I’m sure having it up on a lift they would be able to do a better job but Id like to save some money.

My boss just bought two brand new Fords (a 150 and 250) and payed the dealer I think over $3k to undercoat the frames. I tried to tell him it was a bad idea since once that stuff starts to chip water gets behind and rusts out where you cant see.

 

[Blmpkn]

That was the previous owners job. He had ONE job and he failed miserably.

I did consider paying to have the body done and doing underneath myself. There is a good business near me that is well known for doing good work and they charge $300 to do the rockers, wheel wells, inside the doors etc. (I guess the whole body) but they also detail your interior after to get any overspray from when they do the doors. Edit: After reading DeeRangers post and the cost I wonder if the $300 includes the entire underneath of my truck? I’ll have to call and ask. $300 for EVERYTHING would be a no brainer for me.

What other benefits are there to having a shop do the initial spray? I’m sure having it up on a lift they would be able to do a better job but Id like to save some money.

My boss just bought two brand new Fords (a 150 and 250) and payed the dealer I think over $3k to undercoat the frames. I tried to tell him it was a bad idea since once that stuff starts to chip water gets behind and rusts out where you cant see.

Where are you in maine? I had NHOU done on my bronco by a guy in gray about a mile from mcdonalds. 350$ on a vehicle that size.. an old ranger is 275 I believe.. and he really gives you a good soaking. Stuff definitely creeps into EVERYWHERE.

My buddy uses fluid film, sprayed with a gun/compressor (the rattle can stuff is thinner).. and while they are similar products i think the NHOU is probably a little more durable and lays on appreciably thicker.

 

[JJMaine]

I'm in Bangor. If it is that cheap then I think I will have the pros do it at least for the first time. I just need to find a reputable place nearby to have it done.

The place I was thinking about taking it to before said they only use Eastwood products and I want a lanolin based coating.

Shame I wasn't closer to Gray or I'd go to that place, what is NHOU

 

[JJMaine]

I just want it done right which is why I'm willing to do it myself (same as any other work my vehicles need) as we've all heard the horror stories and especially now quality and craftsmanship seems to be way down across the board.

Not that I could do it better or even as good as someone who knows what they're doing but at least I would know it was up to my standards lol.

 

[DeeRanger]

Just for reference here's where I went to have it done....https://www.steelcityundercoating.com/pricing

 

[Blmpkn]

⁹

I'm in Bangor. If it is that cheap then I think I will have the pros do it at least for the first time. I just need to find a reputable place nearby to have it done.

The place I was thinking about taking it to before said they only use Eastwood products and I want a lanolin based coating.

Shame I wasn't closer to Gray or I'd go to that place, what is NHOU

New Hampshire oil undercoating. If there's one in gray you might have a place that does it up near you.. id give it a look for sure.

 

[JJMaine]

Thanks I'll look into that!