2.3L ('83-'97) Rough idle/engine shake/stalling

[MDeBo]

I had even went as far as checking the voltage's at my inlet temp sensor and MAF when running rough and smooth and it all checked out. Makes no sense as to what the hell is wrong.

 

[martinglen]

I had even went as far as checking the voltage's at my inlet temp sensor and MAF when running rough and smooth and it all checked out. Makes no sense as to what the hell is wrong.

I know. It's driving me crazy. I just checked the vacuum with a gauge and it is steady at 22 which is normal. I thought maybe a clogged cat. but the vacuum was steady during acceleration all in normal range. I'm going to get the temp. before and after the cat with an infrared thermometer and see if there's a difference. I know that would be an expensive fix but at this point it would be worth it to get this headache over with.

 

[MDeBo]

Hate to say it because it's been such a good truck, but I'm to the point where it's not really worth spending any more money on this problem, not with 373,000+ miles on her. Unless you or anyone else finds an easy fix. And I think we've exhausted the easy fix options.

 

[1999Mazda Central Florida]

I know it's a fairly old thread, but been having same issues with '99 Mazda B2500 for a while. Catalytic converter had a crack and I replaced the cat along with both oxygen sensors and exhaust manifold. The same stall out upon deceleration manifested (no change as it was doing that before and had been curious if cat renewal would improve it...which it didn't.) There is also a fairly extensive forum exchange regarding the potential fix for this having something to do with the AIC and throttle body cleaning <--all of which did not help either. My next job is going to be EVAP charcoal canister since I'm having issues with early pump stoppage at gas station.

1999 Mazda/Ford intermittent near stall and stall at red lights and after coming to stop...

The stalling or wanting to stall issue is intermittent. It only happens when coming to a stop (while winding down to idle.) It will mostly almost stall, but picks back up at the last second before stalling and if I have a load (like A/C or while turning) it will stall. It always restarts...

www.therangerstation.com

 

[jthrash85]

Log inRegister

• 

  Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and Register for our forum. Even if you don't want to post, you can still 'Like' the posts that you read.

  

• 4-Cylinder Engines (1983-2011)

Engine sputter/Shake/Stall
I cannot figure out this sputter/stall issue. My truck is a 1997 Ford Ranger 2.3L Manual Transmission with l97,000 miles.

Here is the problem:

1. When I start the truck and begin driving and come to a stop sign, the engine will begin to sputter at the end of deceleration. If I sit at the stop, it will work itself out and run smooth after about 10 seconds. (Only happens during the first 2 minutes of driving then the problem goes away.)

2. When I start up the truck and begin driving and come to a stop sign quickly, the engine will stall out at the end of deceleration. If I try to start it back up, it won´t turn over until about 10 seconds later. Then it runs kind of rough then smooths out again.(Only happens during the first 2 minutes of driving then the problem goes away.)

3. When I start up the truck and begin driving and push in the clutch and coast then come to a stop sign quickly, the engine will stall out. If I try to start it back up, it won´t turn over until about 10 seconds later. Then it runs kind of rough then smooths out again.(Only happens during the first 2 minutes of driving then the problem goes away.)

4. When I start up the truck and just let it idle in place, it runs smooth, but when I accelerate it, it begins to sputter at the end of the deceleration. The higher the deceleration the more likely it will stall out. Then I wait 10 seconds and start it back up to find it running rough for another 10 seconds and then its smooth again.

(Note: Engine is less likely to sputter and stall if I use engine braking by down shifting and using the foot brake just at the very edge of the stop.)

What I have done to try and fix this:

1. Replaced Coil Packs, Spark Plugs, and Spark Plug Wires
2. Replaced Fuel Filter
3. Replaced entire EGR system
4. Replaced Throttle Position Sensor
5. Replace Idle Air Control Valve
6. Replace cracked EVAP hose to Canister
7. Replaced Engine Coolant Temp Sensor
8. Cleaned MAF
9. Cleaned Intake Air Temp. Sensor
10. Cleaned Throttle Body

CEL code prompts if I decelerate fast enough to have it stall:
Throws a cylinder 2 or 3 misfire.

Something about driving seems to help it. Does anyone have any idea what this may be caused by?

I am on the same boat as you. Did everything you did and now am working on replacing my TCC solenoid. I believe its and transmission issue. Will keep you posted if I find anything.

 

[PlumCrazy]

Sooo...I have two 97 2.3 trucks with this issue....anyone figure it out yet? One has 250K and one had 320K.....If I stay under 40% throttle until the engine gets up to temp it doesn't happen. Both have done it for 100K+ miles now.

If it stalls while throwing its throwing a fit then it becomes a real bear to restart. it will gallop like its got a dead hole or two while cranking.

 

[Shran]

Sooo...I have two 97 2.3 trucks with this issue....anyone figure it out yet? One has 250K and one had 320K.....If I stay under 40% throttle until the engine gets up to temp it doesn't happen. Both have done it for 100K+ miles now.

If it stalls while throwing its throwing a fit then it becomes a real bear to restart. it will gallop like its got a dead hole or two while cranking.

The most plausible theory I have heard so far is that the valves wear and recess into the head, or machine shops cut the valve seats too far into the head, which recesses the valves, and in turn they become too long and are held open when they shouldn't be under high oil pressure conditions. I haven't verified that on my engine but have struggled with the same problem for about 10 years... I did have the head gone through and the problem started happening about that same time.

Some ideas that might fix it:
- run thinner oil - didn't help one bit for me and how thin is too thin for these engines, really?
- have the valves machined shorter
- find a different head
- have new valve seats installed to correct the issue
- swap to anti-pump-up lifters, allegedly this helps - https://www.speedwaymotors.com/High-Performance-2-3-Ford-Hydraulic-Lifters,7485.html

I chased this stupid problem and threw a TON of parts at it. Always seems like the next thing is going to solve it. Fueling issues, dead TPS, bad EGR valve, leaking injectors, weak coil... etc. On mine it just keeps getting progressively worse and I'm assuming that is because the valves are slowly wearing into the seats. It runs well enough to haul trash once in a while so I may never try to fix it.

 

[PlumCrazy]

The most plausible theory I have heard so far is that the valves wear and recess into the head, or machine shops cut the valve seats too far into the head, which recesses the valves, and in turn they become too long and are held open when they shouldn't be under high oil pressure conditions. I haven't verified that on my engine but have struggled with the same problem for about 10 years... I did have the head gone through and the problem started happening about that same time.

Some ideas that might fix it:
- run thinner oil - didn't help one bit for me and how thin is too thin for these engines, really?
- have the valves machined shorter
- find a different head
- have new valve seats installed to correct the issue
- swap to anti-pump-up lifters, allegedly this helps - https://www.speedwaymotors.com/High-Performance-2-3-Ford-Hydraulic-Lifters,7485.html

I chased this stupid problem and threw a TON of parts at it. Always seems like the next thing is going to solve it. Fueling issues, dead TPS, bad EGR valve, leaking injectors, weak coil... etc. On mine it just keeps getting progressively worse and I'm assuming that is because the valves are slowly wearing into the seats. It runs well enough to haul trash once in a while so I may never try to fix it.

Both of these engines that I have are factory sealed with high miles, so worn valves/seats makes sense.

The only other thing I have found that helps is to shut the truck off while its running rough, then cycle the key 4-5 times to prime the fuel system, then restart. Often times it runs 10X smoother after doing this. Which has lead me to believe that it was fuel starvation issue from from pressure bleeding off when the truck sits long enough to go cold. Since these trucks all either have a huge fuel filter or a reservoir/accumulator for WOT fuel demands. I'm led to believe that if you demand too much fuel while the truck is still cold, then that system hasn't enough time to fully prime/pressurize the system, then goes lean and leads to misfires. If then system is in good shape and bleeds no pressure off and/or has a good strong pump then there are no issues going WOT on a "cold" engine.

To test this, I plan to cycle the key 4-5 times before every cold start to see if it correlates to my theory.

I have heard plenty if people mention still having the issue even after a fresh pump, regulator, and injectors though.......so there is that.

 

[PlumCrazy]

The gallop during cranking after it stalls from running so rough does really correlate with the hung valve though.

 

[Shran]

I've had three of these trucks and they all did it - my '88, a 94 and a 96. All same symptoms.

I think it's valve related because on the hard starts that you mentioned, it sounds way different when cranking - it's got that "broken timing belt fast crank" sound like it has no compression. In my case it would usually come out of it faster if I just cranked and held the throttle wide open.

Just wondering if in your case, the key cycle delay is enough time for the oil pressure at the lifters to bleed off and thus it just seems like a fuel issue when it's really a coincidence?

 

[PlumCrazy]

I've had three of these trucks and they all did it - my '88, a 94 and a 96. All same symptoms.

I think it's valve related because on the hard starts that you mentioned, it sounds way different when cranking - it's got that "broken timing belt fast crank" sound like it has no compression. In my case it would usually come out of it faster if I just cranked and held the throttle wide open.

Just wondering if in your case, the key cycle delay is enough time for the oil pressure at the lifters to bleed off and thus it just seems like a fuel issue when it's really a coincidence?

That's why I want to try it with the engine stone cold to see its effect (its been 15-30*F here lately)

The gallop mine typically has sounds more like it has one nearly hydro-locked cylinder. Like the starter really bogs down on one compression stroke which lead me to think a sticky injector is what bled down the fuel system....but like you said something valve related makes more sense based on mileage and/or head work done of most engines that seem to experience this phenomena.

 

[PlumCrazy]

After multiple cold starts with a fully primed fuel system....the problem remains unchanged. I'm just going to pin it up as a valve issue and keep on keeping on until it becomes a bigger issue.

 

[scotts90ranger]

Yes, I think it's gotta be a valve height issue which would change the valving on the lash adjusters and might make them pump up more... my '97 is running kinda silly here and there at 220k and there's been a lot of talk about the valve height in the last few years causing odd running... I've never had that problem on the '90 but it's been turbo for the last 15 years and hasn't gotten near the miles on it I'd like to run (15mpg is hard to justify vs 23mpg of the '97...)