Rod end setup for links

[kirk3000]

Just curious on what you guys with link suspensions, 3 or 4, are using for rod ends?
As of right now Im thinking of using a threaded johnny joint at both ends of my links, one RH thread and the other LH thread and using the jam nuts to hold it all in place. I'll probably mark all parts of my links with a scribe or something as an easy way to check nothings become loose after driving.
My reasoning behind this is i can adjust the length of the lower links to get my front end parallel to the rear, and adjust the upper to set pinion angle and castor.
Think of a turnbuckle that you use to hold a camper in a truck. I could just loosen the jam nuts and spin my links for adjusting.
What do you think? Any input would be great.

 

[kirk3000]

After some more research, i found James duffs 4 link kit for broncos uses this same setup. And nobody came out saying "dont do this or your axle will fall out!"
Looks like my problem has been solved

 

[RangerSVT]

It's best to use a joint at one end, and a bushing at the other, otherwise you will feel every jolt your axle transmits to the frame...
SVT

 

[kirk3000]

Thats what ive heard. but since my trucks not my DD, im not to worried about vibrations, most bushings ive seen only have about 5* of misalignment, where a johnny joint has 30* of movement. After weighing out the pros and cons of both i think the jj's will work well for me.
I appreciate the input.

 

[legoms013]

Something like this?

Notice how one side is welded and cannot rotate. Both ends are JJ's, but one is threaded so you can drop the bolt out, and shorten or lengthen to your liking.

Keep one end welded like this one, both don't need to be threaded, its just more to come loose.

 

[kirk3000]

This is what I had in mind. I see what you mean about one less thing to loosen. The only thing is I dont have a tube notcher. Is there another way to cut it? Because the welded at one end seems safer.

 

[RangerSVT]

Sawzall, grinder with cutoff wheel, hell a hacksaw will do it, its just a little harder. That's how I'm making mine, welding one end...
SVT

 

[kirk3000]

So just cut a shallow "V" at the end of the tube that somewhat cradles the joint? That seems simple enough. I must have been over thinking it. Thanks

 

[dave@threat]

This is what I had in mind. I see what you mean about one less thing to loosen. The only thing is I dont have a tube notcher. Is there another way to cut it? Because the welded at one end seems safer.

What is your link set up going to be for? Crawler, Steet truck, desert truck?
In the offroad indusrty we do that concept with our crossover steering kits, and are upper links in the rear. Desert trucks see insane amounts of abuse at high speeds and we never have a problem with the rod ends coming loose. As long as you tighten the jam nuts you will be good. Its also much stronger. Also if you are using it for a desert truck or a crawler I would go with Rod ends. They are also much stronger.

 

[kirk3000]

Im going for a trail/crawler setup. It will see some road but not everyday, mostly to and from trails and whenever i need a box for something. My DD is a 81 rd350lc.
Another reason I liked 2 threaded rods is if I bend a link or a rod end fails, I can pull it apart, salvage the good bits and make another very easily.

 

[dave@threat]

Im going for a trail/crawler setup. It will see some road but not everyday, mostly to and from trails and whenever i need a box for something. My DD is a 81 rd350lc.
Another reason I liked 2 threaded rods is if I bend a link or a rod end fails, I can pull it apart, salvage the good bits and make another very easily.

What I have done in the past for the Rock Crawler guys for the lower links is Tap/Thread 1 1/2" .250 wall tubing 4130 tubing then sleeve over it with 2" .250 wall 4130 tubing then use 1 1/4" hiems for the most articulation possible. For the upper links I perfer to use .250 wall tubing for the desert trucks but for a crawler 1 3/4" .120 wall will work just fine.

 

[kirk3000]

I was planning on using 2"x.250 dom with weld in bungs and 1-1/4 joints. I have about 120' of the tube lying around. What you said sounds to be unbreakable. haha

 

[dave@threat]

I was planning on using 2"x.250 dom with weld in bungs and 1-1/4 joints. I have about 120' of the tube lying around. What you said sounds to be unbreakable. haha

Unbreakable and un bendable haha! Since you allready have 2" .250 wall DOM I would go ahead and sleeve the inside with some 1 1/2" before you weld the bungs in. Make it as strong as you can that way there is no chance of bending it if you slide over some big rocks. Even if you only use some 1 1/2".120 wall DOM inside of it it will dramaticaly improve the strength over just 2" .250 wall.

 

[kirk3000]

How would I go about fastening in the inner tube? Weld in 1 bung, slide the 1.5" tube in and weld in the second bung to squeeze it in place?

 

[dave@threat]

How would I go about fastening in the inner tube? Weld in 1 bung, slide the 1.5" tube in and weld in the second bung to squeeze it in place?

Yep thats it. If you want to get fancy with it you could hole saw a bunch of 1 1/2" holes through out and weld them all up. Its more work but looks really nice esspecially if you TIG it. It will still be nice and strong too.