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Rock Auto


I think the first time I wasn't aggressive enough. 500 grit is fine, but not that fine; I think you need to take off a few thousandths anyway from the surface. Just by hand in circular motions works, then I go to finer grades up to 2000 then 3M glaze. With 500 you can see the fine scratches, but by the end it should be super smooth and no visible scratches at all (i.e., hopefully, "like new").
Assuming any discoloration is just on the surface which it does seem to be.
Oh, and, for sure wet sand.
I just happened to have basically every grit there is for papers because of other non-vehicle painting I do.
I also have 10, 5, and 1 micron sheets I use for plane/chisel sharpening for the micro-bevel, but those aren't really needed.
The Dupont #7 might come into play, I think it's a bit coarser than glaze.
Anyway... I'm sure the kit works fine, if you don't have the grits.
Some papers are dry-sand only so you don't want those.
But if you don't have the stock of papers, then, you'd want to get the kit, I think, because it wold be cheaper than going out and getting all the stuff... I just already had them.
 
I used Cerakote on my Mercury. Lot's of chemicals there. Has chemical wipes that remove oxidation. They really turned yellow. Then a 2000 grit and 3000 grit paper. Then another chemical to finish. I think the last one kind of melts the plastic surface to smooth out the fine sanding lines. Worked ok. Kind of smudgy, but that I'm sure is user error.
 
Yes I think the 3M glaze has some chemicals in it to do similar. In fact I'm not sure I like the way it works on alkyd paint. For other purposes you can dry the chems out of it then hydrate it, to just use the very fine grit in it.
I discovered this when I finished off a really old batch of it that was totally dry, I just added water, but when I got the new batch I noticed what you are talking about. Interesting issue.
 
I read somewhere about using deet ( mosquito repellent ). Never tried but I had a bottle spill on my dash and didnt see for awhile. It definitely ate into the dash...
Another thought I had was to use a scraper like used in fine woodworking. Get rid of the yellow first then go to deet to smooth it out. Or go with the finer sandpaper...
Maybe one day I'll experiment and report back.
 
I have scrapers... I'd tend away from it, but you could try it.
A properly sharpened scraper should produce curls like a plane, not dust.
So you could take off a lot pretty fast. Might be worth a try.
 
No scrape, Polish. Use water too, keep it wet.
 
If you don’t re coat the headlights is all for nothing. They will yellow again in a few months of sun.


I normally check rock auto first, but I buy a decent amount of stuff from the Napa near my work. I’ve not had any issues with getting the wrong part to rock auto, but I’ve had issues trying to get a part warranties. They want you to ship the part back first, or buy a second one and ship the broken one back. Then once they look at they will give you a refund. It’s not unreasonable, but it’s a lot easier to deal with someone in person for this sort of problem.
 
If they no longer ship to CA due to prop 65, then Im SOL.
 
The only real way to restore a headlight that's worth doing is sanding it down and spraying clearcoat on it.. everything else is just temporary.
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Focus guys do love their cars. I call it the Fucus (add a k after the c though lol)
 
Hey, now, they were good little cars. Beats a Pontiac Sunfire, hands down.
Hey now... I'm driving a 96 Pontiac Sunfire with 415,000km on it. Total of $800 invested over 2 years (including winter tires on rims)... I think it's a good little car too. It impressed me...lol.
 

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