Right rear brake runs hot

[Shadowranger]

2001 Ranger XLT 4x4, 4.0, right rear brake runs hot. 145K miles. Wheels cyls, shoes, drum, axle all replaced and the shop I go to (which did all the work) just readjusted it last week. It's better now as I could notice a drag on it when first starting out in the morning, which would go away after a bit. I don't notice it now but after a few miles I put my hand on the drum and it's hot while the left rear is warm.
I knew a guy that lost his full size F150 years ago when one brake caught fire, so should I be concerned? Plus I'm in a hot climate year round. Thanks

 

[ekrampitzjr]

Possibly a problem with the flexible brake line to the wheel being blocked internally and preventing brake fluid from leaving the wheel cylinder. This is a common problem with flexible lines as they age, but I usually hear about it with front discs.

 

[SenorNoob]

That would have to be the center line in the back though wouldn't it? Although I guess if the center is holding some pressure and the adjustment is different that could explain it.

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

Well.

Fix it.

 

[pjtoledo]

are the parking brake cables binding?

 

[Shadowranger]

are the parking brake cables binding?

No, and isn't the left side the only parking brake?
Forget to mention all springs and hardware were also replaced. Is it possible new brake shoes need to wear a bit and resize themselves? (just being hopeful....this thing has had so much restoration done I'm getting tired of it all)
But I'll look at the flexible brake line, thanks.

 

[Curious Hound]

Parking brake should be both sides in the rear.

Is it possible new brake shoes need to wear a bit and resize themselves?

It's possible. Replacement parts quality, these days isn't great or consistent.

I would recommend double-checking the parking brake cable condition, adjustment and, even proper hardware assembly.

 

[Shadowranger]

Will do, thanks

 

[pjtoledo]

I've had to fit shoes to the drums a couple times.
I covered the shoes with magic marker then spin the drums, check the wear then shave the material a bit.

 

[sgtsandman]

No, and isn't the left side the only parking brake?
Forget to mention all springs and hardware were also replaced. Is it possible new brake shoes need to wear a bit and resize themselves? (just being hopeful....this thing has had so much restoration done I'm getting tired of it all)
But I'll look at the flexible brake line, thanks.

Both sides have a parking brake. There should be a cable running to the back of the dust shield on both sides connecting to an equalizer bracket under the cab. The parking brake cable on that side could be hanging up if the housing is compromised, allowing water in so that either the cable rusts or the housing swells up from rusting, thus binding the cable. The cable should move fairly easily by hand if you pull on it. It won't move much if the parking brakes are set properly, but it will move as long as the pedal hasn't been set. You should also be able to hear the brake mechanism moving when you pull the cable. If the cable isn't moving, and the parking brake adjustment is set properly, then it's the cable. The brakes shoes should be only slightly dragging against the drum when you spin the wheel. If they are doing more than that, take a brake spoon or a flat tipped screw driver, remove the oval shaped rubber plug on the back of the dust shield, crank the star wheel down until you can't easily move the tire, and then crank the star wheel up 5 clicks. That should free up the wheel and only have a slight amount of drag. If the wheel is hard to move by hand when first checking it, do the 5 clicks up and check the wheel movement then.

If that checks out and the assembly in the drum looks ok, then you are looking at something in the brake system itself on that side. A kink in the brake line. A bad wheel cylinder. Possibly the brake hose or the junction block near the differential.