Right and Left Oxygen Sensor confusion. The same does it matter interchangeable

[rogerranger2122]

This is an email I just sent to Bosch after buying my sensors an hour ago, just seeing if I can get some insight from here in the forum. thanks.



I have a question about oxygen sensors.

I have a 2000 Ford Ranger 2WD 4.0L 6 Cylinder XLT Pickup.

I plug that into Advance Auto Parts website to find the matching O2 sensors.

I need Left and Right Upstream sensors.

I purchased what said to Be the Right Upstream and Left upstream. I bought these exact ones


Part No. 15716 For the LEFT
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...sor-15716/5730003-P?searchTerm=oxygen+sensors

Part No. 15718 For the RIGHT
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...730005-P?searchTerm=oxygen+sensors#fragment-2


So as I'm picking up my order I pre paid online for, I checked the contents to see if anti seize was already included on the threads by Bosch (which it was thanks).

But I noticed the wire length of both 15716 and 15718 were the same. But advance auto Parts website states in the links that
the 15718 is
Length (Sealing Surface To End Of Connector): 18.9 inches

And the 15716 is
Length (Sealing Surface To End Of Connector): 10.6 in

Both of the wires are 10.6". Which, although a bit alarming since the description stated 18.9 inches, is fine with me because the cables on my existing original O2 sensors are 10.6".


However when checking this, I accidentally mixed up which sensor was in which box. And I checked the model numbers stamped into the actual item but they are both the same thing. They both say
0258005716

but ones says
0258005716
618231

and the other says
0258005716
2092433



The boxes are different, one says 15718 and the other says 15716 (but I mixed them up and don't know which is which although alarming is that both have stamped into them 025800 5716.

I asked the guy at the store to check another box of either of these so I can know which is which based on the stamped numbers on the actual item but I bought the last one of each. I asked to just refund the order and I would buy from another Advance auto Parts but he said it was saying it can't be returned.

So my questions to you are, which of these is Right and which is Left? I know sometimes it might not even matter (as long as they're both upstream sensors, or downstream sensors), but I don't want to chance it (and replacing these is a nightmare in a tiny space on this engine). If they were universal, then I doubt all the major parts sites specify differnt parts for each Left and Right.

also, can you tell me Right and Left, which is Passenger side and which is Driver side?

Thanks

 

[RonD]

There is no difference in the sensor itself, they are interchangeable, upstream, downstream, left and right
Wire length(pigtail) and electrical connector is the only difference.

Regular O2 sensors, now called Narrow band, output a voltage of .1 to .9 volts, depending on Oxygen levels in exhaust.
Upstream or downstream , left or right, doesn't matter, Ford, GM, Dodge, doesn't matter, they are all interchangeable if wire and connector match up.

Recently there was a change to A/F(or AFR) sensors instead of O2 sensors, they are known as Wide band sensors.
They output a wider voltage range, 0 to 5 volts, this allows better fine tuning of air/fuel mix so better MPG.
These are not interchangeable with older O2 sensors, engine computer(PCM) needs to have software/firmware for the expanded voltage range.

 

[rogerranger2122]

Good idea, I will call another advance auto and see if the part numbers on the actual sensor are the same per the box they came in or if what I got actually was a mix up in the boxes possibly someone had already mixed them up.

Someone also said it doesn't matter but I want to make sure because this is a really tight replacement and I don't want to do it twice or possibly mess up the threads!





Quote:
Originally Posted by RonD View Post
There is no difference in the sensor itself, they are interchangeable, upstream, downstream, left and right
Wire length(pigtail) and electrical connector is the only difference.

Regular O2 sensors, now called Narrow band, output a voltage of .1 to .9 volts, depending on Oxygen levels in exhaust.
Upstream or downstream , left or right, doesn't matter, Ford, GM, Dodge, doesn't matter, they are all interchangeable if wire and connector match up.

Recently there was a change to A/F(or AFR) sensors instead of O2 sensors, they are known as Wide band sensors.
They output a wider voltage range, 0 to 5 volts, this allows better fine tuning of air/fuel mix so better MPG.
These are not interchangeable with older O2 sensors, engine computer(PCM) needs to have software/firmware for the expanded voltage range.

 

[rogerranger2122]

I just called a different advance auto, and I DID get the wrong ones originally. The guy said the wire in the 15718 is longer than the 15716 (or vice versa, I forgot which is whicih right now), and also they don't both have the same number stamped into the actual sensor (minus a secondary number which was different on each of the one I bought, possibly a serial number that is). So I ordered those and picking them up and returning the previous ones. I think they guy said I can't return it because actually when you pay with paypal and then go to the store, it says it won't charge you until the order is picked up.



now I just have to hope my codes are all cleared after installing these and I can finally pass inspection. Thanks.

 

[rogerranger2122]

I heard back from Bosch though, they ARE the exact same sensor except for the wire length. But I already installed them. I don't know why it specifically says after I plug in my car specs to find matching parts that one wire was like 18" (I had to bundle and zip tie it) and the other was 10.6". I don't know why it suggests 18" because both side were 10.6" stock and I ended up with slack. I though maybe it was a newer version or something and just wanted to be safe and go with what it said for Right and Left.

Light hasn't come back on and code scanner shows no codes, and scanner says some if not all systems are "ready" to go through inspection. I'm going to do some more driving and then see what happens.

 

[RonD]

Good work

Thanks for the update

 

[rogerranger2122]

I replaced the o2s today, wasn't' too bad. I will report back if this indeed fixes my codes for good.

Here's some tips in case it helps anyone.


for the o2 on the "left' which is Driver side (right is passenger). Open the hood and you need a 1/2" ratchet and the offset 7/8" o2 socket (can rent the whole set free from autozone, advance auto, oriley etc or buy from ebay for $7 shipped). It's deep down there you'll find it eventually. unplug it. I recommend electronics cleaner spray for the socket coming from the computer which you will plug the new o2 into. Let that spray dry while you're replacing the o2. Mine was barely tightened on there at the factory. I didn't even warm the truck up first because I didn't want to burn my hands. I tightened up the new one nice and snug though.

The sensor on the passenger side, loosen the lug nuts on the front passenger tire, jack truck up, put jack stand under. remove tire. You don't have to take the whole mud flap thing off to get inside the wheel well, Just pop the plastic rivet thing in the area near the o2 and should be enough space to get the socket and ratchet in there. Unplug it first. I used the regular non offset ratchet to remove but then realized it might have been easier to use the offset one which I used to put the new one on. The passenger side one was the one with the longer wire that I bought new and the instructions say to just bundle up the extra wire and use the included zip ties and that you should put the bundle on the end of the wires opposite of the o2 sensor (because the wires are actually part of the sensor that it 'breathes' through the wires or something). Mine still had a bit of slack and I don't want it touching a hot pipe or anything so I suspended it with a piece of wire to some area of support above the wire. Deleted my codes and now hoping the check engine light doesn't come back on.

I have only a few more posts under this name so you might want to check that for exact part numbers etc. I bought bosch because the oem from the factory were bosch even though NTK are supposedly the best and the same price (aka ford motorcraft) but I have heard to use whatever brand was already there in case the new ones give slightly bad performance. Also read right and left doesn't' matter if you interchange them as long as they're both upstream (or downstream if replacing downstreams) but I wanted to be safe and used the Right and Left (that's for this car and these types of o2s, much rarer and usually newer o2s they have to be exact and have the exact length of wire but I just wanted to make sure.