Replaced Rocker Arms - Now its worse!

[Cheeko]

HELP!

First I'd like to at least claim to have searched the entire world wide web to find the answer to my current problem.

I replaced the head gaskets, lower air plenum gasket, push rods, rocker arms, valve cover gasket, header gaskets, and for break in threw some 0W-20 and a new oil filter (as recommended on a forum somewhere) on my 99 4.0 OHV Ranger. Used a torque wrench to verify proper assembly and whatnot, and followed instructions on this forum (probably). I inspected the lifters and they all seemed fine - no wear on the bearings and free of obvious wear and tear. Considering what Ive seen after changing the oil pan and cleaning the parts removed on this job, I have no reason to think that the engine has been neglected aside from 1/4 inch of blue RTV on everything from a previous head gasket change.

The problem is that the truck now idles very rough and is substantially worse as far as noise goes (and was no better when it had factory recommended oil in it). Used the mechanics stethoscope and the noise is most prevalent from the drivers side valve covers.
I soaked the parts in regular old oil for an hour (maybe two), and have run the engine long enough to burp the cooling system (~10 minutes)

My question is: The noise is loud enough to prompt me to pull everything back apart to verify proper installation, but I'm aware there is a break in period for these new parts. How loud is too loud? I could post a video if it would help.

 

[RonD]

After torquing down the rocker assembly did you check the rockers and push rods for snugness
You can get rockers and push rod in different sizes, wrong size can cause noises

You do need to rotate the crank manually to test them all

The Ford fuel injectors make the same noise as valve train, the "tick, tick, tick", with the same timing
And exhaust manifold leak does as well
Also spark plug wire, arcing

There is no break in period as far as "noise", shouldn't be there

 

[Uncle Gump]

How bad were the old rockers? Did you check the valve stem tips well? If the rocker were word... chance are the valves are also.

And as RonD eluded too... the rockers themselves are not adjustable. Adjustments are made with selective push rods.

 

[Cheeko]

I did not crank manually, didn't think of that. I'm guessing its as simple as spinning whatever is connected to the crankshaft in the front with a wrench, and observing movement in each component? I did adjust the arm and pushrods to make sure they aligned. This is a metallic "ping" or "tap" and ruled out exhaust leak and fuel injectors. The noise is almost as loud as an exhaust leak but not as loud as noisy fuel injectors. I also listened to the exhaust for a bit and it sounds like its missing.

Forgot to mention, I fudged up and lost track of which spark wires were connected to what. Researched the correct order being 1-2-3 for the passenger side coil (distributor?) then 5, 6, 4 on the drivers side. Whoever did this job previously labelled the coil (distributor? whatever its called) differently. I went with the Haynes manual diagram against my inhibitions but not sure if that could be a factor.

The push rods were from Rock Auto and a tad longer than the ones I replaced. I assessed this to be due to wear.

The old rockers were really bad. The divots were approximately .5mm deep at worst and every rocker arm was worn.

Sincerely, thank you very much for the advice!

 

[RonD]

Yes that's the firing order for Coil Pack

There are only 3 coils inside
cylinders are in "matched pairs" to balance the engine, 3 matched pairs for a V6
3 and 4
2 and 6
1 and 5
Those are the match pairs, and the firing order on the coil pack

If you are going to pull off the valve cover(s)
Pull out spark plugs as well to make engine easy to turn
Put socket wrench on crank pulley bolt to turn engine manually

You can set crank in a certain position to check specific valves....................but
I find it easier to just check one valve and pushrod at a time, lol
Turn crank until first valve is pushed open fully, then turn crank one full turn, valve will now be closed fully
Try to spin pushrod with your fingers, you can if you try real hard, if its easy then its loose.

Repeat with second valve, then third until all 6 on one bank is done

The cam shaft, that opens and closes the valves, turns 1/2 a turn for each full turn of crank shaft
So if a valve is pushed down and fully open, then a full turn of crank, turns cam 1/2 a turn so cam would have that valve fully closed

image here of how cam works with lifter and push rod: https://www.aa1car.com/library/camshaft_lift.jpg

So full open and full closed are 180deg, 1/2 a turn, apart on each valve

 

[gaz]

Cheeko:

Even though these 4.0 OHV rockers are non-adjustable, the "preload" on the lifters is. What RonD is explaining is that after torquing your rocker arm shaft to pedestal bolts, your lifter preload is incorrect, probably not enough pre-load.

I have not done this with the 4.0 OHV yet but I am getting ready to. I believe that it is possible to get the lifter preload correct but it is no simple matter and it will change as the pushrods ends and rocker cups wear.

I HOPE that with great upper valve train oiling, this only needs to be performed once every 50-75 thousand miles. I am currently expecting to change the pushrods somewhere in that timeframe.

To attempt to be 100% clear, I HATE THE NOISE but what we hear is good; it's a built in alarm that our valve train is not properly adjusted. The bad part is that that means that our valves cannot be operating as efficiently as possible, resulting in reduced performance and fuel economy.

Here are the facts that I do know that may help you:

-to correctly adjust hydraulics lifter pre-load the engine must be @ normal operational temperature.
-the range of the lifter plunger is approximately 0.10"
-2.9 lifters like 0.030" preload

What I don't know is whether custom length pushrods, adjustable pushrods or if pedestal shims will result in a simpler more cost effective adjustment, since the pedestal bolt torque is a known constant.

 

[Uncle Gump]

Cheeko:

Even though these 4.0 OHV rockers are non-adjustable, the "preload" on the lifters is. What RonD is explaining is that you did not tighten your rocker arm shaft to pedestal bolts to yield the correct lifter preload.

I have not done this with the 4.0 OHV yet but I am getting ready to. I believe that it is possible to get the lifter preload correct but it is no simple matter and it will change as the pushrods ends and rocker cups wear.

I HOPE that with great upper valve train oiling, this only needs to be performed once every 50-75 thousand miles. I am currently expecting to change the pushrods somewhere in that timeframe.

To attempt to be 100% clear, I HATE THE NOISE but what we hear is good; it's a built in alarm that our valve train is not properly adjusted. The bad part is that that means that our valves cannot be operating as efficiently as possible, resulting in reduced performance and fuel economy.

Here are the facts that I do know that may help you:

-to correctly adjust hydraulics lifter pre-load the engine must be @ normal operational temperature.
-the range of the lifter plunger is approximately 0.10"
-2.9 lifters like 0.030" preload
-pedestal thread pitch will determine the final tightening requirement

What I don't know is whether custom length pushrods or if pedestal shims will result in a simpler more cost effective adjustment.

Gaz... you have a couple things wrong here.

The biggest is that you CAN NOT change valve adjustment by loosening or tightening the rocker shaft bolts.

The rocker shafts get torqued to spec.. nothing more... nothing less.

 

[gaz]

Uncle Gump:

Ah...you are correct, I appreciate your candor and thank you.

Cheeko:

My post was amended after UG kindly corrected me

 

[Cheeko]

Thanks for the advice!

My game plan for today is to troubleshoot according to Ron D's instructions. The spark plug wires are set up correctly...not sure what happened to make that previous mechanic label them in that sequence. Will check in afterwards and let yall know

 

[Cheeko]

Just got done. As advised went through the steps and as soon as I manually turned the crankshaft, I felt that there was a lot of resistance like something was binding. I also noticed that a single rocker arm was at a weird angle and not moving at all. This led me to reinspect the rod seating and there it was - one of the push rods was in a corner on cylinder 4 that looked fine from one angle and completely wrong from the side.. 10% rule at work here for sure...or maybe it was the Coors and time of night. Started her up a few minutes ago and she sounds fan-freakin-tastic!

Can't emphasize enough that, out of all the threads I've read on the procedure they didn't emphasize (or i didn't see/ignored) manually cranking the engine to test my work. That would have saved me six hours of my weekend!

 

[RonD]

Good work

Thanks for the update and THE FIX