rear axle bearing/seal replacement

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

If you have the bearing fall apart like that and have access to a welder, run a bead of weld around the inside of the bearing where the rollers would have been. The bearing will shrink and pretty much fall right out. Just and FYI.

 

[s_b_c_6_3]

u still have them axels my email is vw16002001@yahoo.com my zip is 16874 thats in pa give me your email and phone number

 

[MA Ranger]

I used a 5/16 combination wrench instead of a socket to remove the pinion shaft lock bolt to avoid rounding the head or breaking it off.

 

[hondaxr650]

You know what....I keep reading this and reading this on here, but I've never seen this yet at work...and I probably pull apart 2-3 8.8 or 7.5's a month.

I've seen it a few times but it's not at all common for me either. I'm not really sure why some guys have it happen so much. I'll never understand how they get broken either but they always break right at the end of the threads and just the pin portion with maybe a 1/2 thread stays in the carrier. I can usually spin them out with a pick.

 

[Rattler]

You know what....I keep reading this and reading this on here, but I've never seen this yet at work...and I probably pull apart 2-3 8.8 or 7.5's a month.

I never had a problem until I took mine to a shop and had the gears changed from 3.45 to 4.56. They shaved the cross pin down, and of course it broke.
Guys on here shaved a little bit off of the ring gear, and about 15k's off of the cross pin and it went right in. I copy catted them.
After refining and improving their process 3 x's. Now I am replacing bearings all over the place. Wish I had done this sooner.
It appears pieces of broken cross pin are bad for your bearings! LOL!

 

[ReapersRevenge]

I'm posting this for other guys that may use this thread to change theirs. FIRST be careful if you have the stupid plastic diff cover. I had no clue mine was plastic (covered in dirt) and after a couple whacks getting a screwdriver in there to top it off, it started to crack so I had to buy a metal one. Secondly, you do not need to get the seal out before you take the bearing out. I rented a slide hammer and bearing attachment ("T" style) and with a few hits it the seal and bearing came out. Other than that, all good. Well besides that my fluid was 25 years old and was burnt to all hell. Luckily my diff bearings are ok.

 

[NewShockerGuy]

I know this is an OLD thread but wanted to ask the question.

I am in the process of changing out rear axle bearings (not bad), but also replacing since I am doing the seals, but my seals were leaking on the driver side rear... it's original seals from 2001...lol

I forgot to note which way I pulled the bearing out and it appears that one side is slightly more curved than the other.

does it matter which way the bearing is put back in?

I have taken a couple pictures.

Thanks,
-Nigel

 

[Tedybear]

I'm not sure if it matters? But I've always done these with the numbers/marking facing out.

I've seen mention of the 'repair bearing'. I've never had good luck using those. My BII we retired got one installed, and it ate itself a day later. Did the correct repair and replaced the shaft and used high quality bearings and seals (national/timkin)

The Exploder we just put on the road we are working with-- the PO put on a repair bearing. Due to the extended width that really just about welds itself in place. We had to use a small cut off wheel to notch out the outer bearing race.

S-

 

[fyrbeast]

bumping....planning on replacing my rear bearings in my 7.5 soon. Not a huge Ford person so asking a noob type question. I recently replaced my rear brakes drums/shoes etc...and as one could guess I said hmmpf!! Shoulda changed the rear bearings while it was apart. I found the bolts holding the axle in. I am needing to know if their are clips inside the diff to remove as well? My Dodge had both clips and bolts.

Thanks to anyone who gives a shout out

 

[sheep herder]

bumping....planning on replacing my rear bearings in my 7.5 soon. Not a huge Ford person so asking a noob type question. I recently replaced my rear brakes drums/shoes etc...and as one could guess I said hmmpf!! Shoulda changed the rear bearings while it was apart. I found the bolts holding the axle in. I am needing to know if their are clips inside the diff to remove as well? My Dodge had both clips and bolts.

Thanks to anyone who gives a shout out

There are no bolts holding the axles in. Only the c-clips inside the housing.

7.5 axle

 

[youngbuckwithapickuptruck]

great thread so BUMP

1. my passenger-side rear-seal leaks. the driver-side rear-seal seems fine. "if it aint broke, dont fix it" my gut is telling me to leave the left side stock. order the parts for the left side, but leave them on the shelf for now... and ill know how to replace them late when the time comes.

2. what parts do I need for a basic single cab 2.5l 2000 xl with minimal california rust?
-rear wheel seal (should fit both 7.5 and 8.8 differentials)
-rear wheel bearing (should fit both 7.5 and 8.8 differentials)
-drum brake kit (9in)
is there anything else I am missing like any sort of retainer clips or additional drum brake hardware?

3. should i be replacing the rear axle shafts as well??
what are the signs that rear axle should be replaced?
There is some 'lateral play' on my passenger-side rear-axle, is this normal wear or a sure sign that the axle must be replaced?

4. if my brake cylinders do not leak, am i fine to leave them on the truck? does the drum brake replacement procedure 'disrupt' the cylinder and risk introducing leaks or other failure to the 26year old cylinder?
i am kinda skeptical of the quality of replacement parts these days and would hate to replace a working cylinder with a low quality 'chinese' product

5. i watched this video where they only replaced the wheel seal:

if my axle is fine, should i assume my bearings are fine and I would be good to just replace only the seal?
Im also thinking , I could replace only the seal, drive around for a month or three, and if no leaks re-occur, then go ahead and replace the drum brakes?

 

[Curious Hound]

It would be best for you to keep all your posts about this in the thread you already have started. That way your information is in one, easy-to-find place, instead of scattered around a bunch of other threads whose titles you will forget. Please re-ask these things ove there and we'll get you some answers.

 

[youngbuckwithapickuptruck]

Curious Hound, the only two recent threads i started were about 'what type of coolant to use' and another about 'discontinued radiator fans'. my vague questions about the wheel seal/ drum brakes were in the 'what did you do to you truck today' general thread, so i figured it would be best to post my specific/detailed questions in a thread that already contained lots of relevant information on this subject.

*edit*
also ive seen written in other forums "please search around for a relevant thread before making a new one on the same subject"

 

[Curious Hound]

Curious Hound, the only two recent threads i started were about 'what type of coolant to use' and another about 'discontinued radiator fans'. my vague questions about the wheel seal/ drum brakes were in the 'what did you do to you truck today' general thread, so i figured it would be best to post my specific/detailed questions in a thread that already contained lots of relevant information on this subject.

I figured that out. You really should have your own thread for this. But since so much of it is over there, just continue in that thread. It gets confusing when your train of thought is scattered all over the place. Ideally, if you're going to be doing multiple things to this truck, it makes sense to start what we call a "build thread". Then, everything you do to this truck gets put in that thread. That way you know where all your info is and you have a running history of what you have done. For example;

Thread '1993 Splash in SC'

Feb 22, 2016

Thread Index at bottom of this posting

I bought this truck a few weeks ago - 1993 Ranger "Splash" 4X4, 3.0l, M50D, 1354 transfer case, 7.5" rear Dana 35 front, 3.73 gears. All stock except for the stereo. I live on 12 acres in the country. The truck will be used around the property, around town, and hopefully for trail riding and moderate rock crawling.

So far, I have found the following;
rear brakes grabbing, rusted, leaking - already fixed
leak at top of fuel tank - parts on order (fill tube, new fuel pump, strainer
and gasket
headliner is bad -...

• Curious Hound
• Replies: 910
• Forum: 1983-2011 Off-Road & 4x4 Ford Ranger's

• 
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[youngbuckwithapickuptruck]

*EDIT* 9in drum has 1-3/4in width shoes, 10in drum has 2-1/2in width shoes *EDIT*

im looking up brake shoes for a nine inch drum and i notice that I have option of 1-3/4in shoes and 2-1/2in shoes. i take it this is the width dimension of the shoe an i need to open the hub to measure, ya/na?