ranger trouble


I have 12V at injector , Should it only be one that's hot ,both wire have 12V
 
You don't have your engine size noted, only your vehicle year. The wiring diagrams will be different depending on whether it's a 2.3 or a 3.0/4.0.

I think your injectors will be daisy chained to supply 12V to each, so getting 12V on both wires seems normal. Someone will correct me if I'm wrong.

It's clear that your problem is electrical in nature. You can read 12V with a meter at the injector but that doesn't mean there's enough real power to open the injector.

You can try having someone put a long screwdriver or similar against the injector while you crank, checking for a clicking vibration if the injector is opening/closing.
 
Would a bad crankshaft position sensor cause injectors not fire or a no start ?
 
timing belt is on?


power to both sides isnt right.
 
at first i got low fuel pressure code, But I' tested it with a pressure test gauge,says 40 PSI at fuel rail injectors clicking when being cranked i've changed out ECM and I don't know if i have enough cycles on it to give me a code.Haven't checked CPS
 
You’ve got a puzzling problem there.

You have pressure at the rail, 12V at the injectors, but no signs of starting unless you manually give it gas.

I’m not an expert or a diagnostician, but I’d left it sit overnight, then crank it for 10 seconds or so, then pull a spark plug and see if it’s wet and smells like gas. Just to see if the injectors are opening.
 
Does the check engine light come on then go out when cranking?

Any codes?
 
157 is low Mass Air Sensor voltage, 539 is A/C on during self test (ignore).

Unplug the Mass Air sensor which will force it into FMEM/limp mode and see if it starts.
 
I have 12V at injector , Should it only be one that's hot ,both wire have 12V

When cranking, the PCM will momentarily ground the injector. A test light or meter won't catch it, a logic probe or LED test light can. That's why both wires seem to have power.
 

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