Ranger Suggestion

[hihoslvr]

duals on a four! classic! i do love the look though!

I was just thinkin' the same thing, then I checked out the pics again: he's got dual CB ant.'s, deer hoof (camel toe) rims, and his plate ends in "DP"

 

[dogboy]

I think 5,500 is going to EASILY buy you a good Ranger.

I don't remember reading this in this thread, and and not sure if you know it already, but from the start of Rangers - '97, they used the TTB suspension (the suspension arms cross in the middle kinda) in the front. The TTB can have respectable wheel travel if set up right, and you still have IFS in the front!! You have the best of both worlds, not to mention, the TTB is alot cheaper to lift, but it does have it's draw back if not setup correctly. If it is missalligned/ out of allignment, your tire wear will be really bad!!


I don't have any personal experiance with the 98+ IFS truck, but it is the classic IFS supension. It probably rids better than the TTB on the roads, but offroad, you will wish you had the TTB agian.. In my opinion, A-arm type IFS sucks, it is too stiff and doesn't allow enough travel. And, it is more expensive to lift. But, it also allows you to level the fornt end for free, you just have to crank the torsion bars.


As for the T-case, I haven't seen many with manual t-cases, that run anyway. I would buy a truck with an electric t-case (push button), and just head to a wrecking yard and pick up a manual t-case out of a Ranger or Explore (maybe BII), and just swap it in (as far as I know, it is bolt on), the local yard here wants $100-150 for a manual t-case.

And for hubs, you might get lucky and find a rig with them on it already. But, I would just head to the wrecking yard for that too. I paid 30 bucks for the manual hubs and all of the luck nuts, washer things and all that for the conversion.


For the Engine, I bought a truck with the 4.0L and I wouldn't change it if I could. I don't get the greatest milage , about 16mpg, but that is about half city, and half highway (55-60mph). I don't think my lead foot helps that milage any... When I got the truck, I was getting about 17, but foot has become heavier since then...


I would get an extended cab. I really like being able to throw stuff in the back and not have to worry about it getting wet in the bed. And, that is 2 more people you can carry if you really have to, or a dog, or what ever.

 

[sbsumerix]

i found your truck its in my drive way. i have a mazda B3000 its single cab short box manual trans, t-case, and hubs with a 3.0 it seems really reliable i havent had problems with it just replaced the rear spring hangers since they were rusted out. i bought it with 123,000 miles on it for $2000

 

[BlackBII]

May want to watch out for the dana 28/35 hybrid front end in the 4cylinder 4x4 rangers
(93-97)

I'd go with the 3.slow over the 2.smalls

 

[hr223shooter07]

alright, sorry guys its been awhile...yesterday my I went out looking for rangers, I came accross a 98, short box, 4x4, off road package, standard cab, but it had a lot of rust on the doors, bed, frame, and tailgate, then i found 2, 2001's, both were autos, both were extended cab, one had the offroad package, and one had the flareside/stepside, i liked the looks, I just don't like the front suspension/axle setup...personally i think it looks stupid, and everyone keeps recommending the ttb suspension, so that is what I am looking for in the older ones, my parents were just pushing me towards something new, but I couldn't bear to see such a nice ranger get scratched up and so forth when I go out in the woods...I've been thinking these are my plans for my new ranger (when I get it) feel free to throw in suggestions!

throttle body spacer
homebrew exhaust mainly cherry bomb
2"-3" body lift, or 4" suspension lift
cb
I have a highlift
I've got a really nice welder so I thought I'd build a rock crawler style bumper, for better approach angle and put a stinger bar on it...just mainly cuz i think they look cool, and I've got a set of hella's already
diamond plate toolbox
31"x10" BFG All Terrains

 

[Hahnsb2]

alright, sorry guys its been awhile...yesterday my I went out looking for rangers, I came accross a 98, short box, 4x4, off road package, standard cab, but it had a lot of rust on the doors, bed, frame, and tailgate, then i found 2, 2001's, both were autos, both were extended cab, one had the offroad package, and one had the flareside/stepside, i liked the looks, I just don't like the front suspension/axle setup...personally i think it looks stupid, and everyone keeps recommending the ttb suspension, so that is what I am looking for in the older ones, my parents were just pushing me towards something new, but I couldn't bear to see such a nice ranger get scratched up and so forth when I go out in the woods...I've been thinking these are my plans for my new ranger (when I get it) feel free to throw in suggestions!

throttle body spacer
homebrew exhaust mainly cherry bomb
2"-3" body lift, or 4" suspension lift
cb
I have a highlift
I've got a really nice welder so I thought I'd build a rock crawler style bumper, for better approach angle and put a stinger bar on it...just mainly cuz i think they look cool, and I've got a set of hella's already
diamond plate toolbox
31"x10" BFG All Terrains

Throttle body spacer wont do anything, save your money. I'd go for a 3rd gen 4.0 truck, 2.3 and 3.0 3rd gens you have a good chance of running across the 28/35 hybrid and the 4.0 gets you the 8.8 rear. Good luck finding a manual t-case in a 3rd gen...

 

[hr223shooter07]

I had the oportunity to buy a 93 or a 94, I can't remember exactly, I know it was the 3rd gen. though... It had the dana 35/ford 8.8/4.0/5 speed...it was extended cab, it had a sunroof, a 4" b.l...when I was planning on getting it I was going to replace it with a real suspension lift, and I believe Bridgestone Dueler M/T's, it had manual everything inside with a nice cd player, and had manual lockouts and manual tcase....it was everything I wanted, the bed was a bit tweaked, and the rear bumper was bent down, it had a lot of rust on the frame, nothing looked rotted out though, the owner said it had 109,xxx miles, but it was the type with the odometer where it would ony say 9,xxx, it was missing the first number, and the odometer discreptancy was checked, the oil pressure was a little closer to the low side of the N in normal on the gauge, and the owner didn't tell me it had a salvage title and lied about it, when I questioned him why he lied about it he said he didn't know, even though he had everything already filled out and tried giving it to me all folded up in the dark so I wouldn't see it, everytime I would come it would already be running like it was hard starting when it was cold...I had him talked down to 1500.00....but I didn't know what kind of can of worms I might be opening myself up to...Its not a ton of money for a vehicle, but I need something that is going to be fairly dependant and not need a lot of money for fixing it while going to school.

I have also looked at a 94, it had the 3.0L/5 Speed/Offroad package/Super cab/lockouts, but push button tcase, it had 180,000 miles but ALOT of rust on it and was asking 2900 for it...ironically both of them were the same maroonish red....

My buddy also has a completely rust free B2, it has the 2.9/auto/push button tcase/auto hubs, it is nice looking, 145,000 miles, but has a broken flex plate for the second time...i could buy it off him cheap for 900, but it seems to have a lot of little issues lately

 

[Hahnsb2]

I had the oportunity to buy a 93 or a 94, I can't remember exactly, I know it was the 3rd gen. though... It had the dana 35/ford 8.8/4.0/5 speed...it was extended cab, it had a sunroof, a 4" b.l...when I was planning on getting it I was going to replace it with a real suspension lift, and I believe Bridgestone Dueler M/T's, it had manual everything inside with a nice cd player, and had manual lockouts and manual tcase....it was everything I wanted, the bed was a bit tweaked, and the rear bumper was bent down, it had a lot of rust on the frame, nothing looked rotted out though, the owner said it had 109,xxx miles, but it was the type with the odometer where it would ony say 9,xxx, it was missing the first number, and the odometer discreptancy was checked, the oil pressure was a little closer to the low side of the N in normal on the gauge, and the owner didn't tell me it had a salvage title and lied about it, when I questioned him why he lied about it he said he didn't know, even though he had everything already filled out and tried giving it to me all folded up in the dark so I wouldn't see it, everytime I would come it would already be running like it was hard starting when it was cold...I had him talked down to 1500.00....but I didn't know what kind of can of worms I might be opening myself up to...Its not a ton of money for a vehicle, but I need something that is going to be fairly dependant and not need a lot of money for fixing it while going to school.

I have also looked at a 94, it had the 3.0L/5 Speed/Offroad package/Super cab/lockouts, but push button tcase, it had 180,000 miles but ALOT of rust on it and was asking 2900 for it...ironically both of them were the same maroonish red....

My buddy also has a completely rust free B2, it has the 2.9/auto/push button tcase/auto hubs, it is nice looking, 145,000 miles, but has a broken flex plate for the second time...i could buy it off him cheap for 900, but it seems to have a lot of little issues lately

Don't pay any attention to ford oil pressure gauges, they are nothing more than a dummy light hooked to a needle, they mean next to nothing.

 

[pillen140]

that 93-94

dont buy that truck! that is everything you should watch out for! probly ticks! and has a lot of problems! sounds very shady.... if you still think its worth it, show up as a suprise, so he cant warm it up, then see if he lets you start it!

 

[hr223shooter07]

I ended up turning the guy down, this was a couple months ago. It did tick...I know he was being shady because the title was a different color than a clear one and it was in bold, he also said he didn't know, and then tried backpeddling and said the previous owner didn't tell him, and came up with some b.s. that there was overspray on the motor, that the front fender was repainted, it looked original to me, and I didn't see any overspray anywhere...but he changed his story about 3 times...what does it mean if it is ticking?...I just assumed it was a lifter, or a leak in the exhaust manifold...if it is the lifter is it real serious? the 3.0L ranger that I went to look at was at a dealer, and it did this but they had the exhaust manifold held on by c-clamps...i figured they busted off the bolts, but it wouldn't go into 4x4 low range, I found a hose underneath handing down and pluged up with something...it definatetly didn't look oem...lol it kind of made me mad that the dealer didn't mention it, I turned that one down now...the tips on buying a ranger on the mainsite of this is very handy as are you peoples...once again thank-you for all the advice everyone, sorry my posts are long and un-organized...and keep up the great advice!!!

 

[Sevensecondsuv]

2.3, 3.0, and 4.0, the engines availible from 93-97 are all excellent motors capable of at least 250,000 miles when properly maintained. The TTB is more reliable and better on gas (because you run unlocked) than the 98+ short-long arm IFS. The manual is better than the auto, with the auto's getting better generation by generation. Not many 3rd gens. came with a manual t-case. IMHO the electric t-case is just fine. Mine has 152000 miles on it and still works flawlessly, even after being driven by me for the last 5 years. I know it's cheesy pushing a button for 4x4, but if it works good why bother changing it? As for axles, the 4.0 will get you the nice 8.8 rear over the 7.5 used with other engines. However, an 8.8 swap from an explorer is even better as these were 31 spline 8.8s opposed to the ranger's 28 spline 8.8s.

 

[Will]

The so-called hybrid axle is fine. It has the same parts as the D35 where it counts--the joints and hubs.

I also would not discount the IFS type axle. It's no worse than a TTB on a stock or slightly modified truck. Those types of trucks get most of the flex from the rear--and the rear is the same. The CV joints aren't weaker than an 11-year-old rusted set of u-joints which is what you'll probably find in a '97 Ranger in good condition. My family has had a village bike '93 Pathfinder since 1994 and I wheeled it on Combs Road when I had it--it's in one the early magazine articles on the Magazine section on the main page. it's never had any work at all on the drive train except a clutch. My brother drove it constanty in 4wd in the winter for about three years--not knowing you shouldn't do that with a part-time 4x4. It's even got auto hubs on it. My mother is a pastor in northern Iowa and she uses it all winter doing visitations to old people that can't get out. I think if you want a Ranger, don't limit yourself by paying too much attention to other people's prejudices. I have been on many wheeling trips with SLA 4x4s and with a rear locker they definately hold their own. As a matter of fact, at Wellsville when I rolled a few years ago I was behind a 2000 on stock sized aggressive tires and a locker--it made a hill--I busted a shaft trying. I believe that's the trip when ZMan lost his camera.

I would own an SLA or a hybrid D28/35 in a heartbeat. If you need a TRUCK, those will do fine. If you want an offroad TOY, then an SLA isn't what you want.