Rangebe...version 2.0

[Ford78]

looks Good! Whats the plans for the motor, any upgrades or leaving it stock?

 

[-Nathan-]

Nothing crazy for now. Strip it to the bare block, clean/paint everything, new bearings, oil pump, rings, gaskets, headers, intake, just that kind of stuff. Should be more than enough power for now. I just want to get it running. Ill build something nasty for it in a couple years

Edit: How do I go about getting a "1 ton TTB" banner ??

 

[-Nathan-]

Got a bunch of small, but necessary, stuff done tonight.

Started by tearing out all the old brake lines, fuel lines, and battery tray.

Then cut off the winch/end of frame horns. Still need to plate the ends; will build a new cross member at some point.

Changed door pins, because I was tired of not being able to shut the doors.

Took out the old motor mounts, here you see a new 4.0 motor mount on the drivers side, and a 2.3 on the passenger. The 2.3 mounts are hydraulic, and suck.

And both 4.0 mounts in place...next is to make plates and drop the motor in, to check for clearances and such.

 

[-Nathan-]

Been busy getting my bender setup. I didnt order a stand because it would have been a ton of $$ to ship, and I didnt want one bolted to the ground permanently, taking up space in the shop. I couldnt find anything for a stand that I liked, so I made one.

Drilled/chiseled a hole in the concrete, and made a steel plate that sits down inside of it, and bolts to the floor

Here it is bolted in place. When the stand is not in it, its out of the way, and easily drove over. Its only 3/8" thick at its tallest point.

Took some square tube that fit in the ID of the larger tube in the concrete. Made a base that bolts to the top of the plate in the concrete, and welded it up.

Here it is in place, and bolted down. The square tube is a nice snug fit, and sinks down in the floor 5". Its extremely sturdy.

And here it is all together, lots of room to work, and I made sure it was level to the ground. Take the 4 bolts out, pull the stand out, and set it in the corner, out of the way

Need to order some 1.75" 0.120" wall DOM and get started on the cage.....

 

[Kyle M.]

Are your motor mounts level? Mine weren't and I had to redrill and move em before I mounted them for good.

 

[-Nathan-]

havent checked yet. Need to get a M5ODR2/BW 1356 and figure out final placement. Kyle, what tcase are you running? and did you have any fitment issues? Ive heard of guys having to make the engine/tranny slanted a bit to make it fit.

 

[Kyle M.]

I'm running a 205, clocked up flat and twin sticked. It is narrower than a 1356 and fits with the trans in the center. The 1356 is too wide to bolt in without fanagling tranny placement.

 

[-Nathan-]

gotcha. If I was building more of a crawler Id use a 205, but I think Ill make a 1356 fit I NEED to find a tranny and t case to mock up, before I can do much anything else. Oh and in case anyone needs the info in the future, F150 1356 tcases have a rear slip yoke, what you want is a 90's or newer full size bronco 1356, as it has fixed yokes front/rear. Mid 90's bronco 1356's also changed from a rear yoke to a rear flange.

 

[wahlstrom1]

I've gotta 205 here... Hint hint, nudge nudge....

 

[-Nathan-]

haha thanks Andrew....while its tempting, I like the idea of the 1356's 2.7:1 low range (vs 2:1 of the 205), and much lighter weight than the 205. You gonna be round 'stoon at all this summer? And any chance you know of an M5OD-R2 and bronco 1356 for sale??

 

[wahlstrom1]

I'll be up for wheelin anywhere once the trucks done, but that's a big negative on the 5spd/Tcase....

 

[B II Ian]

haha thanks Andrew....while its tempting, I like the idea of the 1356's 2.7:1 low range (vs 2:1 of the 205), and much lighter weight than the 205. You gonna be round 'stoon at all this summer? And any chance you know of an M5OD-R2 and bronco 1356 for sale??

Something you should look for is a zf5 from an f250/350 that had a 351 windsor , they are hard to find but they have a lower first gear than a m5od r2 and 20 times the strength is a route you should go, and the slave cylinder is external and takes 10 minutes to change.

And I totally agree with a bw1356 over a 205, you just have to cut a notch in the frame so that it clears rather than playing around with shimming the engine to the passenger side

 

[-Nathan-]

Ive looked in to the ZF-5 trannys as well. They have a lower first, and are much more stout yes, but are definitely a truck tranny. They do not shift fast by any means, in comparison to an M5. Also, they use an internal slave, just like the M5, not an external, in the mid 90's anyways.

 

[B II Ian]

The small block zf5s are internal slave? I knowmy brothers 94 my uncles 93 both are external, got a whole 460 zf in my back yard and it's external

And zf5 not shift fast? Just takes a little gettin used too.

 

[B II Ian]

Another trany that is awsome for offroad is an np435 4 gear, my budy has a 79 f250 on 38s and 355 gears, it also has an np205 and in mud he has to drive it in high range because there isn't enought wheel spin in reverse