Rangebe...version 2.0

[Kyle M.]

Yep. Rad was cooling a 427 stroker, so it should cool a stockish 302 more than adequately. Yes, rear mounted radiator, and rear mounted fuel cell. Wondering if I can get away with a stock water pump, or if I should bite the bullet and get a Meziere electric pump. What did you do for motor mounts? and could you do me a favor sometime, and measure how far rearward the transmission crossmember is, in comparison to the cab mount or something? going to make my radius arm brackets/tranny x member and would like to have an idea where to put them.

I used stock 4.0 mounts, made plates to adapt them to the motor, easy.

I will measure for you.

 

[-Nathan-]

thanks.

Back of the passenger beam was open....so I cut out a piece to fill it.

Burned in and cleaned up. Also pressed out the old bushing, and pressed in a new one.

 

[kris97ranger]

um... it may be a stupid question but shouldnt there be a hole in that beam for the axle shaft? or is it on the other side

 

[XionicWaste]

If you decide to keep the snorkel how would you run it? I ran mine underneath the fender and it looked pretty good.

 

[-Nathan-]

um... it may be a stupid question but shouldnt there be a hole in that beam for the axle shaft? or is it on the other side

That is the back side of the passenger beam near the pivot, as shown in the picture...no shaft there. Window is on the front side. Take a look again.

 

[-Nathan-]

Got the passenger beam plated, front, back, and bottom.

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

Needs moar speed holes.

Looking good Nathan!

 

[-Nathan-]

Need some more steel before I can truss the drivers beam...then theyll be done.

Finished welding my brackets, drilled final holes, and reinforced the holes.

Also, got a 22 foot stick of 2" 0.250" wall DOM to build my radius arms out of. I know a lot of the desert guys use 1.75" 0.120" wall DOM...but I build things a little over-kill. Ive seen multiple failures, hence the radius arms Im going to build should never bend.

 

[XionicWaste]

I know a lot of the desert guys use 1.75" 0.120" wall DOM...but I build things a little over-kill. Ive seen multiple failures, hence the radius arms Im going to build should never bend.

I cant believe desert guys run .120 wall, that's thin for control arms. I ran 2" x .25 and its great, I can put the whole truck on it with no issues, I also wouldn't run anything smaller. The steel guy I went with asked me why I wasn't running 3/8th wall. He said he was running 3/8th on this steering, that's way thick especially for steering... Your axle is going to be burly dude, looking great so far.

 

[wahlstrom1]

Desert guys aren't smashing rocks usually, and it's not a single tube arm like the SAS stuff so it usually holds up fine. The steering is probably 3/8" so he could run a larger diameter and still just tap the threads in vs. welding in a bung. I know my 1.25" x .250" tierod was pretty flexible... however, my new ones are aluminum! haha

 

[-Nathan-]

My radius arms will be double tube, and 2" 0.250 wall DOM....should be plenty strong

Took a bit last night to start on my truss. Wanted to keep the stock fill plug, so used a piece of 1.75 tube to protect it.

Need to fill in the side plates. Also you may have noticed I didnt go over the crest of the ring gear portion. I will be welding a plate vertically down the entire bump for protection, will do that after.

 

[kris97ranger]

so if you were to build another set of these beams what would it cost? this is exactly what i wanted to do with my last ranger and what will be happening to the next one

 

[-Nathan-]

Sorry, Id NEVER build another set. Ill have over 100 hours by the time theyre done into them. If you want to build a set, feel free to ask me any questions you want. All my pics are here for reference as well.

Nate

 

[kris97ranger]

lol i pretty much figured that would be your answer

 

[-Nathan-]

got the bottoms section filled. note that I welded it together with the pig bolted in, as to help minimize warpage.