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radius arm stud on ttb


I'd heat the nut so it expands. Don't heat those coil springs by accident though.

You can get a box end wrench on there... but otherwise go get a cheap china impact deepwell and you'll be able to put your extension half way in. Then cheater pipe the breaker bar.

Can also try shocking it, get a box end or socket on there and have a buddy hold the thing in place while you get a solid kick to it. Using a wrench you can hit it with a hammer. Once it turns even just 1 degree, you're home free.

Don't forget the take it off one turn, then back a 1/4. It's time consuming but it cuts and clears the rust out of the threads making it so much easier in the long run. Then when you install it, add some washers so that you can actually hit it with a deepwell...
 
I'd heat the nut so it expands. Don't heat those coil springs by accident though.

You can get a box end wrench on there... but otherwise go get a cheap china impact deepwell and you'll be able to put your extension half way in. Then cheater pipe the breaker bar.

Can also try shocking it, get a box end or socket on there and have a buddy hold the thing in place while you get a solid kick to it. Using a wrench you can hit it with a hammer. Once it turns even just 1 degree, you're home free.

Don't forget the take it off one turn, then back a 1/4. It's time consuming but it cuts and clears the rust out of the threads making it so much easier in the long run. Then when you install it, add some washers so that you can actually hit it with a deepwell...

Coil spring is already out. He's trying to remove the RADIUS arm. It's held in with a 3/4" x 2" on the bottom and a 3/4" stud on top. If you need two more studs, I have a brand new set here in my garage I'll send you. Let me know.

COILSPRINGRETAINERSTUD.JPG


http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-93225-oem-lower-coil-spring-stud-each.html
 
Nope. I went and picked up map gas. Hit em with gas and then used a 12 inch adjustable to break it free. Got the aussie put in. Kind of odd tho, the 4 bolts in the case that hold the carrier in. Should I use loctite on them or just torque them to 50 ft lbs? Shop I called and my buddy said just torque them. I wanted to loctite them but he already had it bolted up.

But tomorrow I gotta finish putting in shocks and stuff. Then go test it out. It'll be a few weeks before I get the Detroit put in.
 
Never use lock tight on the cap bolts! Oil them llightly with gear oil and torque them down to the proper setting (50 lb/ft sounds right)
 
My 8.8 rear had Loctite on the cap bolts....they came out after about 1200 miles the first time I regeared...When I bought the SECOND set of bearings, gears, and gear lube I wanted some added insurance. Though I suspect the guy that set them up didn't torque them. I was 17 and it was my first gear change...but two years later when I swapped to an open carrier they came right out, and I didn't Loctite them when they went back in.
 
Hmm. I seem to remember somebodys rear end falling apart during a trip cuz there buddy defeated there 8.8 and the bolts fell out. Good thing tho cuz its already in the truck.

Thanks guys!
 
Interesting, I've never had one come loose on me. Good insurance I suppose
 
Like I said...I dont think it was torqued to begin with lol. My current setup has made it well past 30k with no issue.lol I have thought about building girdles into my cover like the SVT covers

Sent from my XT907 using Tapatalk
 
Hmm, well while I've got your attention. I've ordered a Detroit for the rear. I just bolt the ring gear on and use the same shims? Back spacing should be fine?
 
No you will probably need to play with carrier shims

Sent from my XT907 using Tapatalk
 
Sounds like a good time to buy an inch-pound torque wrench and do some learning. That's what I have planned for the near future.

Richard
 
You shouldnt have to touch the pinion.

Just the left right adjustment from the carrier bearing shims.

Sent from my XT907 using Tapatalk
 
No. Just carrier shims and bearings

Sent from my XT907 using Tapatalk
 

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