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Radius arm bushings..... need help....


Duane867

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 31, 2010
Messages
1,945
Age
50
City
Columbus
Vehicle Year
1993
Transmission
Manual
Ok so its time to change the radius arm bushings on Pey Pey my little mule.
Is the easier way to go about it removing the rear nut, grinding off the rivets on the brackets and sliding the old off and the new on with new grade 8 bolts...
OR...
Is it easier to drop the front suspension and slide the beams forward ?
 
I removed the brackets when i did mine. If you heat the rivet head up, you can use a air chisel and it'll come right off. Or if you have a good grinder.
 
Oh I can grind them out in less then 30 minutes per side easily but I was worried about realigning them.
I would think you would have a hell of a time with either the axle pivot or the bracket end wouldnt you if you leave it all together ?
 
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I can't remember exactly what needs disconnecting because I was doing a lift at the time, but you should be able to use a ratchet strap to pull the beam forward enough to pull the arm out of the bracket. So probably shocks, sway bar, maybe spring.
Good luck,

Richard
 
The only way I do it is grind the rivets out and replace the bolts....... It makes it easier next time you have to do them (if ever again)..........
 
Think I'll be going that route.
Safer then snapping a strap and slamming steal into my head and I can use a large screw driver to line up the mounting holes after the bushings are in.

Thanks for helping me make up my mind fellas :-)
This week will be fun .. ( sarcasm )
 
I remove the springs, shocks and sway bar links and the beams can be pulled forward far enough to get the rad. arms out of the brackets by hand. It also helps to loosen the rad. arm to beam bolts a little. Overall easier than grinding/chiseling rivets, at least for me. Just my opinion.
 
I just did this job a few days ago. I got the rivets out and removed the brackets. Lining the brackets back up is a little bit of a pain, but really not too bad at all. The radius arm will droop down and you need to jack them back up with a bottle jack. Leave the big nut off or at least loosened until you get the bracket lined back up. Leave the brackets seperate and bolt them back in one at a time, then bolt them together in the middle last.
 
I remove the springs, shocks and sway bar links and the beams can be pulled forward far enough to get the rad. arms out of the brackets by hand. It also helps to loosen the rad. arm to beam bolts a little. Overall easier than grinding/chiseling rivets, at least for me. Just my opinion.


See I think I would rather leave all that in place and just replace the rivets with bolts rather then remove the springs and all. Just seems like more work to me.
I have a wicked little grinder that will make mince meat out of the rivets ( did my shackle and brackets anyway ) in a hot second. I bet I could do the axle pivot bushings the same time the same way by completely removing the radius arms and still leave the springs and all in place but supported. Plus as an added bonus when the radius arms eventually rust out ( and they will )
The rivets will already be gone and bolts and nuts in place ready for the new radius arms to bolt right up.
Any thoughts any one ?
 
I think the only way to
completely removing the radius arms
is to disconnect the springs, shocks and sway bar anyway. You might be able to do the pivot bushings with out dropping everything but I don't know if the bushings are a press fit - [never done them yet] maybe use a ball-joint tool?

Richard
 
axle pivot bushings are sort of a press fit but you simply burn them out, clean the bore and grease the new bushings before pressing them in with a socket and hammer Or even an old bolt.
If I remember correctly, The springs connect the frame and dog house, The stabilizer bar connects at the frame and the knuckle, and the radius arms connect from the frame rail to the axle pivot. I bet you could simply remove the pivot bolt after the bracket is dropped.


Any one tried it yet ?
 
So, haven't had a chance to change out the bushings yet but ....
I dropped my lighter under the truck today while getting in.
It dawned on me to take a peak at the drivers side radius arm bracket while I was down there. I only saw one rivet. The rest where all bolts. My support cross member employs the use of the radius arms and bolts together smack in the middle tying the frame together.
Haven't checked out the passenger side but I have to assume its the same.
I was under the impression that both sides were fully riveted on and the drivers side had two bolts and two rivets like the rear shackle hangers?
Trucks a 93' 2wd 2.3 if that matters ?
 
Didn't have time to look at the other side let alone tackle the job today.
Damn bathroom remodel keeps frucking up my schedule.

Any one else with an early 90's 2wd ranger noticed the above as well ?
 

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