Radiator

[James Morse]

There was a jug of coolant in the cargo box that makes me think this is not a new issue.
Went round and round with dealer about it and they claimed no way the radiator leaks but they are wrong.
I have a mind to go back to them but the thing is I did talk them down quite a bit which is hard to do at a dealer and it wasn't an unknown potential issue to me plus it's not tons of money.
Here's the thing. I still can't find exactly where the leak is, but I -think- it's on the passenger side, on the side of the radiator about 2/3 way down which I think puts it pretty close to the mounting ears/tabs and it's been mentioned this is where it likely could be. It's a few drops when you park, say, less than a dozen drops. It'll leak a drop or 2 sitting there overnight. It doesn't stop me from driving it, but I'm concerned that a small leak could suddenly become a big leak (I don't know if this is likely, but it -could- happen I suppose) so I'm thinking it's smart to hold off going way up some dirt road to try 4x4 until I get this fixed. I'm tempted to just get a radiator and put it in and be done with it. As long as I've determined it's definitely not a loose hose or something stupid like that.
Right now this is the only thing mechanically I see that has to be done and I should chase this vs cleaning, polishing, admiring, etc.
What brand and/or supplier should I go to? Advance is over $200. I doubt OEM is available and shouldn't matter as long as it's a decent one.
There's also taking them to a radiator shop, that's what we used to do, but I'm thinking, taking it out/in isn't terribly hard but it is work so might as well go new, agreed? vs soldering etc if that's even possible.
And when I do that probably it wouldn't hurt to flush out the heater core. I'm getting massive heat so all that stuff is working good - maybe not necessary but shouldn't hurt either.
Basically I want to replace with a good quality radiator so wondering what other people have good success with.

 

[superj]

i would pull it and inspect it for cracks and if need be, replace it. it would be a bummer to be deep in the woods and the radiator splits open stranding you and possibly overheating your truck/ruining head gaskets.

i go with amazon or ebay when buying radiators. cheaper then the local auto parts store by a ton and you can get all metal ones

 

[James Morse]

thanks, wow, I'd be bummed if it came plastic I had no idea
totally agree about being stranded off road that's why I think this is first item to do
being stranded on highway/street isn't fun either but a walk in the park compared to the other

 

[Shran]

Those radiators just drive me nuts. I've had a ton of them start leaking on the sides... usually the hot/cold cycles loosen up the little crimped ears that hold the plastic tanks to the sides of the radiator and they start leaking slowly. You could try to bend them all in just a hair but it's almost worth just dropping a new radiator in it... that way you will know it's nice and clean and not full of crap too. I get them on RockAuto, way cheaper than any of the parts stores.

 

[pjtoledo]

pressure tester to find the leaks. I've had good luck with plastic side tanks.

I will concede that North Dakota hot/cold cycles are a bit more extreme than my northern Ohio ones.

 

[James Morse]

Does pressure tester simulate driving pressure or does it go over that? If I had one what pressure is the test pressure?
It doesn't leak now at least if I come back from driving there is no drips (and yes it has fluid). I think there might be one drop overnight. Fluid level in reservoir hasn't changed visibly since I got the truck.
I'm wondering if pinhole leak got plugged by sediment, and if so, does this make it now ok or should I still put in new rad?
It seems like sometimes if truck wasn't driven for a while they can get better with driving. I suppose that makes little sense, just a gut feel.
Pressure tester only like $30 from Harbor Freight. Think that'd be good enough for occasional use? Which one would you recommend?

 

[19Walt93]

I never trust anything that "fixes" itself. I would pressure test it and locate the leak, then fix it and replace all the hoses while you've got the system drained. A new cap isn't a bad idea, either. Look closely at the bottom of the water pump, if it leaks out the vent hole it would run down the hose and might drip under the side of the radiator. You probably have a 16 lb cap- it should be marked- so that's what I would test to, not higher. I guess I don't have a brand preference, as long as it's not made in China.

 

[Garth Libre]

I hear that plastic radiators are cheaper to produce and weigh a little less. I doubt they weigh much less and all metal radiators seem to be the same price as OEM plastic.

 

[James Morse]

OK thanks will check. Is it normal for fluid to come out vent hole of water pump? I have never heard of this. But really only water pump I worked on was internal so probably wouldn't have had that.
I'm thinking of '68 Saab V-4 that had impeller setting down in a cavity on top of the engine. Fixed one at Saratoga Springs state park en route NH to Ohio. Going back 50 years there. You can slide-hammer them out or bust them out with a hammer. Totally different I'm sure, and, telling that makes me feel like, wow, where did 50 years go? Still have the Sears tool box I always carried, and man was I glad I had it then. That was the old German Ford engine in those Saabs I'm pretty sure.
Yes this is good advice to replace hoses that is probably cheap and eliminates possible failure. Will get cap too. Yes it's 16 lbs Made in USA.
I think I'd prefer metal radiator I never heard of using plastic. I guess they must work, but just seems weird but I guess they must work.
It's pass side I saw drips. Water pump is on driver side isn't it? (idiot question).

 

[Eddo Rogue]

On the contrary, it may be beneficial to take it off road. See where the dust sticks, trace it from there. Poor mans UV detection.

 

[James Morse]

It's definitely leaking. Part of the finding problem is the fluid goes onto the front crossmember and drips from its low spot.
I *think* it is leaking from both sides about 1/2 to 2/3 way down, where the plastic attaches to the metal.
To me, sounds like, why buy a tester and do a pressure test if I am planning to replace the radiator? I already know it leaks, I mean, I'll verify that and check vent for water pump Is it normal to vent or no?
True that pressure tester would find anything else. I guess if it created a new leak then that item wasn't up to snuff.
So it'd be radiator, hoses (2? more?), and rad cap. Anything else while I'm at it and have the radiator out? T-stat seems fine, truck warms to temp, gauge is in the right place when warm/cold.

 

[Garth Libre]

The all metal radiators will be much more reliable. Check with the board members as to which ones they've had good luck with. Just like you said, replace the radiator because it's easy and not too expensive. While you're at it look at hoses. I bet this will solve all your problems.

 

[Eddo Rogue]

It's definitely leaking. Part of the finding problem is the fluid goes onto the front crossmember and drips from its low spot.
I *think* it is leaking from both sides about 1/2 to 2/3 way down, where the plastic attaches to the metal.
To me, sounds like, why buy a tester and do a pressure test if I am planning to replace the radiator? I already know it leaks, I mean, I'll verify that and check vent for water pump Is it normal to vent or no?
True that pressure tester would find anything else. I guess if it created a new leak then that item wasn't up to snuff.
So it'd be radiator, hoses (2? more?), and rad cap. Anything else while I'm at it and have the radiator out? T-stat seems fine, truck warms to temp, gauge is in the right place when warm/cold.

If you know its the radiator for sure, I would just replace it. They're pretty cheap nowadays. Hoses probably still good.

 

[97RangerXLT]

Did this on mine 4 years ago. The plastic sides broke on mine. Do a pressure test and see if you can find the leak to make sure it is not something else entirely.

If you gotta yank the radiator, it is not much more effort to replace the fan clutch and water pump. Replace the hoses as well. No need to tempt fate by running 25 year old hoses.

Side note... the transmission line was the issue that made this job a horror for me. I had to cut the fitting off of the radiator with a hand saw because there was not enough room to get a sawzall in and safely cut it. then I had to cut the remainder of the fitting off of the line without damaging the threads of the compresson nut that bolted into the fitting that I cut off.

PB blaster and patience...

AJ

 

[Josh B]

Maybe it's a new radiator someone scarred somehow when replacing it, like I did :/ You get a bare radiator and any attached hose holders etc must be removed from the old one and installed on the new one. They're simple little spring metal clips that attach with a grip and they just pop on and pop off with a screwdriver and a friendly nudge with a hammer. Somehow my hammered nudge on one went awry and the screwdriver went through a water passage and I had a bummed up radiator.

Dropped it off at a shop I knew a bit and figured that was how things go and now it was gonna cost yet a bit more

After a couple days I had begun studying into the situation a bit more and found Ford Recommends Epoxy putty instead, and does not consider other forms of repair acceptable. After juggling that thought around I got some putty and went by the shop and it was still sitting there so I took it home and used what I found locally to be wmart J-B Weld SteelStik ( I can assure you no royalties are included )

That stuff surprised me and it's on my truck leak free to now

Good luck with yours man, I hope you find it to be so simple